2020 Sidewinders and or SRX Rear Suspension Bolt Hole

x2 on Fabio's post. Track tension very important. For those who are studded and run high speeds, TD recommends it does not sag at all when back end is lifted! Centrifugal force makes track grow big-time at higher speeds. This is from TD Performance Guide:

- Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track baloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

Damn that's tight
hard on the already questionable drive axle bearing
 
Most of the time, the bearing has not been failing. Shaft has been spinning inside bearing. Running track tighter actually should help that condition as there will be more side load on shaft and thereby shaft will exert more pressure against bearing possibly preventing shaft from spinning inside it.
There have been some failed bearings.
 
My take-away from TD recommendation is that a tight track does NOT slow sled down - just opposite. Many of us have heard for decades that best speed is attained with loose track. TD says not so. Tighter is faster. Are they right or wrong? Knapp?
 
x2 on Fabio's post. Track tension very important. For those who are studded and run high speeds, TD recommends it does not sag at all when back end is lifted! Centrifugal force makes track grow big-time at higher speeds. This is from TD Performance Guide:

- Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track baloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.
Turboflash I've always went with precision’s way of track tension, 1/2” sag just in front of the rubber stoppers which it was just before I moved the rear bolts. I moved the rear suspension bolts without touching the track tension, I used a ratchet straps to compress rear spring a bit to line up the rear bolts to the upper hole, once I was done and released the ratchet straps the track got considerable tighter and had to back off the adjusters to have a 1/2” gap again. So just giving a heads up to guys who do this performance handling mod LOL..
 
My take-away from TD recommendation is that a tight track does NOT slow sled down - just opposite. Many of us have heard for decades that best speed is attained with loose track. TD says not so. Tighter is faster. Are they right or wrong? Knapp?
Agree, you don't want any sag. I think most people would be surprised how far the track can throw ahead of the drivers at high speeds. When manufacturers started using combination drivers(external and internal) alot of people made the false assumption that tracks could then be run very loose.
 
So you guys are running no sag on trail sleds?
 
1/2" sag measured precision way in video.
 
Im glad to hear I can move the skid to the upper hole and reduce some steering pressure. I heard some good advice about track tension and something about using a strap to compress the suspension before moving the bolts. Can you tell me more about that - do you mean use a ratch strap and compress the skid to make the skid have less pressure pushing on the track? should I loosen the track also. Have not taken this skid out yet. Have done it foe my old sx 700 and lots of polari.
 
Im glad to hear I can move the skid to the upper hole and reduce some steering pressure. I heard some good advice about track tension and something about using a strap to compress the suspension before moving the bolts. Can you tell me more about that - do you mean use a ratch strap and compress the skid to make the skid have less pressure pushing on the track? should I loosen the track also. Have not taken this skid out yet. Have done it foe my old sx 700 and lots of polari.
Mn-kelly you don’t have to loosen track tension to do this but you will have to readjust the tension so just go ahead and loosen the tension some.
One way to do this is use a car jack under the track near the rear of the track and use a rear sled lift jack to lift sled from the bumper high enough to wheel the jack under the sled, remove both rear bolts there’s not much tension on these bolts but the suspension arm will spring back a bit, now pump up the jack to get the arm close to the upper hole, with a ratchet strap wrap 1 end over the coil spring behind the upper wheel and run the strap to the bar that the rear shock is attached to the rail, hook the strap hooks together and snug up the strap. Raise the jack up to get the suspension arm close to the upper hole, the arm should be positioned more to the back of the sled now slowly tighten the strap to draw the arm to the hole.
By adjusting the jack and or the ratchet strap the holes should line up with out difficulty.

It’s a lot easier than how it sounds lol..
 
I’ve seen one 22 se at a dealer and been hearing that the 22’s are coming in with the suspension bolt in the upper hole again.

Guys who have received their 22 sled, is the suspension bolt back in the upper hole for 2022 ?
 
Mine is in upper hole, 2022 ltx se
 
22 XTX lower hole

Haven’t rode it much feels real nimble the bit that rode it not heavy on the steering at all
 
My take-away from TD recommendation is that a tight track does NOT slow sled down - just opposite. Many of us have heard for decades that best speed is attained with loose track. TD says not so. Tighter is faster. Are they right or wrong? Knapp?

Old post, but just seeing this now. Yes, a tight track is a fast track always. I run them them literally fiddle string tight on the race sleds, and what others would call too tight on my winder. I get a kick out of the guys that run them loose thinking that's faster. Just because it spins easily on the stand with no resistance means nothing.

You can't even spin my track on the stand without two hands. The radar gun, Draggy or timing lights will tell you the true story, not spinning it on a stand by hand.
 


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