2024 Sidewider LTX GT EPS

[rb2001srx700]

Hello TY,

I finally pulled the trigger and now have a 2024 Sidewinder LTX GT EPS in the trailer. I am fortunate to have a brother in-law that has a sidewinder already, so he has been helping me with what to look for. We already did the ROV delete. I have a Precision drive shaft saver on the way. Installed the belly pan protector under the clutches. We pulled the exhaust bolts and nickel never seized them and replaced the 2 hard to get to ones with hex head SS bolts. I have to add the STM tunnel protectors yet and 4th wheel kit. When we got it home, he knew to look at the charge tubes thankfully. 0 miles and the tube on the brake side was cracking already. I have been looking into the different stud options for the trail. Still looking at the Megabite studs 1.450. Minimum 144. Who has been running them and how many miles. How are they holding up as far as bending, breaking, pull throughs. Looking at doubles 4 per every other bar. And if that is not enough add the other singles to the open bars. Anyways I am happy to finally be on the sidewinder side. I still like my Viper, but the sidewinder starts so much better and a ton more power. CAN'T wait to get some miles on her.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Welcome to the wonderful world of the almighty Sidewinder!

 

[STAIN]

I wouldn't over stud it for trail use, 144 is more than plenty for a stock sled IMHO.
congrats on the sled, the EPS is the best.

 

[fatchance]

Don't waste money on 1.45" studs. No reason you shouldn't put 1.575" in there. Pick your poison for count, but no worries hitting in the tunnel and don't waste your money on tunnel protectors.. Trail riding 144 up the middle are plenty, for minimal stopping on ice 96 or 4 per every other bar will do. Want good traction to line up and beat your buddies put 4 every bar. You won't break or bend mega bites. If you hit a tree stump you might have a pull through, but other than that they are the most durable studs.

 

[KnappAttack]

Don't waste money on 1.45" studs. No reason you shouldn't put 1.575" in there. Pick your poison for count, but no worries hitting in the tunnel and don't waste your money on tunnel protectors.. Trail riding 144 up the middle are plenty, for minimal stopping on ice 96 or 4 per every other bar will do. Want good traction to line up and beat your buddies put 4 every bar. You won't break or bend mega bites. If you hit a tree stump you might have a pull through, but other than that they are the most durable studs.

Steve,
I think you mean don't bother with the full length protectors and I agree, but I'd still use the factory rear protection for a studded track.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Steve,
I think you mean don't bother with the full length protectors and I agree, but I'd still use the factory rear protection for a studded track.

The factory ones glue in right?

 

[STAIN]

The factory ones glue in right?

yes. it may be just me, but I keep studs out of the center of the track. I bought a T-cat with studs in the center and they chew up the center protector in the rear

 

[jonlafon1]

Consider a different top gear/bushing in that new sled. The chain case roller screw in the chain case should be spot welded so screw can never back out, or just get the precision update kit that eliminates the roller and has a really nice chain tensioner also. Studs are going to depend on your riding style, etc. Nothing wrong with the size you mentioned IMO. That length is used by many with a 1.25 track. Some don't line up against other. Some just trail ride, and that length is perfect for just trail riding. Nothing against anyone running longer lengths. Don't mind all us guys on here . Some have a sidewinder disease>>>addiction to insane trail power, adding more power, adding gobs of traction, doing mods to make them reliable, and racing others or running a few fun weekend races.

 

[rb2001srx700]

yes. it may be just me, but I keep studs out of the center of the track. I bought a T-cat with studs in the center and they chew up the center protector in the rear

I plan on just over the rails in the middle part of the track. Then maybe the outside if I need more traction.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Consider a different top gear/bushing in that new sled. The chain case roller screw in the chain case should be spot welded so screw can never back out, or just get the precision update kit that eliminates the roller and has a really nice chain tensioner also. Studs are going to depend on your riding style, etc. Nothing wrong with the size you mentioned IMO. That length is used by many with a 1.25 track. Some don't line up against other. Some just trail ride, and that length is perfect for just trail riding. Nothing against anyone running longer lengths. Don't mind all us guys on here . Some have a sidewinder disease>>>addiction to insane trail power, adding more power, adding gobs of traction, doing mods to make them reliable, and racing others or running a few fun weekend races.

I like to play too but will mainly be on trails. I just need studs for the trails not looking to be the first at the end of the lake. I don't have that kinda money. lol There is someone always going to be faster. I will do the spot weld and or the precision tensioner. Either way is fine. Ones just more money. I want to keep this sled for as long as possible. So, reliability is key. I don't mind the over kill with the protectors up the tunnel. Thanks for all the suggestions and info.

 

[Turboflash]

yes. it may be just me, but I keep studs out of the center of the track. I bought a T-cat with studs in the center and they chew up the center protector in the rear

I know there are strong opinions on both sides of this general subject and it has been debated for a long time here on TY.
IMHO, if your studs are hitting the rear of the center exchanger, either your studs are waay too long, or your track is way too loose.
I've always run long studs (1.74 StudBoy Lake Racer, 1.575 Woodys Megabites, etc) with no protectors at all, and none of my exchangers have any evidence of studs hitting them. Maybe I'm just lucky or my track is too tight?
I know this has been posted before but here's TD's recommendation:

Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track baloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

yes. it may be just me, but I keep studs out of the center of the track. I bought a T-cat with studs in the center and they chew up the center protector in the rear

I know this topic has been discussed for along time here on TY.
I agree with keeping studs out of center.

IMHO if studs are contacting the center of rear center heat exchangers(or protectors), either the studs are waaay too long, or the track is way too loose.
I've been running long studs (1.74 StudBoy Lake Racers, 1.575 Woodys Megabites, etc) without any protectors, and see zero evidence of any studs contacting any of my heat exchangers. Either my my studs are too short or my track is too tight or I'm just lucky. I know this has been posted previously but here is what TD says about track tension:
Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track balloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

 

[1nc 2000]

I have been running 1.875 studs in 1.5 track.
Like turboflash said keep track tight with no sag off rails.
When adjusted per PEFI recommendation the studs did tickle the tunnel at rear to front tunnel connection and loovers under exhaust.
Have the factory tunnel protector on rear heat exchanger.
After having the tickle on tunnel I decided to add the STM protectors.
Being that the sled has the barn of parts coolant hose protection on it I had to shorten the front of the STM protectors.
This may be overkill but the sled is solid along with the addition plate on top of the fwd half of tunnel.
The horsepower house is strong now.