"21 SW LTX LE UPPER IDLER WHEELS

[ALEXR]

Thanks 1nc. I've read about using an air hammer & will try it. I have 2 new wheels anyway if things so south. Just want to find the root cause of the problem. Tearing the sled down next week for annual maintenance/inspection.

On a side note, another stub shaft question....sorry. I've read many posts over the years. Mine has moved in around 2mm & using my Hurricane alignment bar, I have a .5mm shim behind the secondary. Secondary has been shaved 3mm. Primary is not hitting the stub shaft bolts, but is pretty close. I'd say 1/16"+ by looking at it. I've never blown a belt & don't think the previous owner did either given how clean it was by the primary. I do have the TP quiet clutch kit in the primary. Sled has 4,350 miles on it now. Has that typical clutch rattle & is very annoying. I know that's what they do & is a personal preference, unless it does any harm. Perhaps as preventative maintenance? Thoughts?

Thx, Alex

 

[ALEXR]

Was speaking with my cousin who's had/has a ProCross chassis for years about the skid & says it doesn't make sense. Skid is bolted in & there is at least 3/4" between the upper wheel & that nut. That wheel would have to flex pretty hard to make contact. Plus, if that wheel wasn't pushed in all the way, the torsion link would be flush with the end of the shaft & the skid wouldn't fit at the rear. It would be sticking out. Both sides are flush.

Perhaps a weld let go on the left side & when the skid is stationary or static, you don't notice anything. Only under load would it skew to the left. I pull the skid every season & didn't notice any cracks or breaks, but perhaps there is. Anyway.....another possibility. Bring the sled home this weekend.

Cheers, Alex.

 

[fatchance]

Isn't there a spacer in there to keep it away from the pivot arm? Is it missing?

 

[ALEXR]

Have the sled back home & will work on it next week. Working on my cousin's '17 ZR turbo now. Oddly enough, his top gear bushing & drive shaft bearings were good. Negligable wear on both after 4,200 miles. On my '21 SW, both were toast at 3,000. Go figure.

Anyway....ya fatchance, I have looked over the skid in the sled on the trailer & there is the a plastic bushing there & didn't notice any broken welds or anything. Will know more when I take the skid out.

And thanks 1nc. I used an air chisel to change my cousin's upper idler wheel bearings, worked like a charm. Just have to be careful not to gouge the shaft.

Many thanks to all. Alex.

 

[ALEXR]

Received a PM from a very reputable member here & he informed me of the difference between Cat & Yamaha clutching in terms of drivetrain component wear (ie. top gear/driveshaft bearings). Although I've been sledding for 40+ years & tooling on them for 30+ years, these sleds are somewhat new to me, & I appreciate his & everyone's knowledge. Cheers.

 

[Turboflash]

Received a PM from a very reputable member here & he informed me of the difference between Cat & Yamaha clutching in terms of drivetrain component wear (ie. top gear/driveshaft bearings). Although I've been sledding for 40+ years & tooling on them for 30+ years, these sleds are somewhat new to me, & I appreciate his & everyone's knowledge. Cheers.

I would recommend reading the Master Sidewinders Issues and known fixes thread at the top of the forum. It's great info.

 

[ALEXR]

Thanks Turboflash. Have read that & many other posts & videos on these sleds/chassis over the last 3yrs & it has helped me immensely. My '21 SW is still stock, meaning no tune.....I know....how's that possible! Maybe next year. But have many upgraded reliability & performance parts installed.

HURRICANE: new drive chain/upper cross shaft/shock shaft/alignment bar

PEFI: silicone charge tubes/upper gear bushing/chain tensioner & skate/drive shaft wedge/belly pan protector

BOP: front cross shaft tunnel reinforcement/tunnel stiffeners/rear skid mount drop ear bracket/Linq bracket

TD: secondary belt adjuster

DALTON: black/blue & black/red primary springs (with TP glides washers & rollers) & black/orange secondary spring with 35 helix & Hi Torque rollers. Secondary shaved 3mm.

JT 8.2 wheel kit out back/BRP idler wheels/Grip'n'RIP torsion adjusters & nut holders/all 4 shocks rebuilt with new brand springs/drive shaft welded with new FAG bearing/new brake rotor/Cat ZR front intercooler grille/Slydog Command trail skis with Stub Boy Shaper Bars/Qualipieces ice scratchers/144 Gold Diggers with Stud Boy double & single backers up the middle/full compliment of MoFlow & Extreme Air vents/Yamaha knee pads/Yamaha medium sport windshield with mirrors/Yamaha tunnel flares/front chassis led lights/USB outlet/PowerMadd Fusion hand guards/Amsoil 0-30 SS & chaincase oil/NGK BR9EK plugs.

Perhaps a Hurricane 240 SM SS tune next years & roll over delete. I'm pretty diligent about leaving the key switch on for a few minutes to warm up the ROV & keep an eye on the air filter/box for oil, so not sure yet on that one. Maybe a catch can. Mainway Solution bell crank kit as well.

Most fun riding a snowmobile in years. Puts a smile on my face every time. Just hope I find the upper idler wheel issue & will look at my stub shaft as well.

Thanks to all, Alex.

 

[Lusemeat924]

Here's a pic with the skid out. It certainly appears to be hitting the corner of the "nut" that holds the rear skid bolt through the torsion arm. Skid must be flexing to the left side somehow on acceleration or deceleration & gouging the idler wheel. Skid itself is in great shape with the Hurricane upper cross shaft & center shock shaft, skid bolts & track are tight & aligned. Thought perhaps the spun bearing is allowing the drive shaft to move just that much on accel or decel to make contact. Thx.

Make sure the skid bolts are in the proper location. They are different lengths, could be the bolt end damaging the wheel. I've seen this in the past.

 

[MrSled]

Make sure the skid bolts are in the proper location. They are different lengths, could be the bolt end damaging the wheel. I've seen this in the past.

This was my thoughts as well..

 

[ALEXR]

Well.....took the skid apart & reassembled & put on new torsion springs & upper wheels on. There was nothing untoward going on there. No cracks or broken suspension, bolts are of proper length & location. Perhaps I didn't press the wheels in enough to the shoulder of the shaft previously on the left side. Dunno. There is about 1/4" clearance between the back side of the nut when flush & the wheel on both sides. Same as before. Right side was ok, but left side was chewed up. If anyone could measure there's to confirm the same or different spacing.

Appreciate the help Lusemeat & MrSled. Alex.

Appreciate the thought Lusemeat & MrSled. Alex.

 

[ALEXR]

Here are photos. You can see roughly 1/4" space between the upper torsion nut & plastic part of the wheel. Wheels are pressed right to the shaft collar with the plastic spacer in place. All the bolts for the BOP drop ear bracket & tunnel saver are well outbound of the wheel & behind the torsion arm. Nothing else was sticking out. I'm 99.9% sure it was the torsion arm nut. Gouges lined up perfectly. What caused the wheel to flex....no clue. Everything is fixed in place & track tension & alignment were good.

Just finished putting the sled back together & buttoned everything up. Everything seems in place, tight, & as they should be. We'll see.

Thanks for everyone's input. Cheers, Alex.

 

[fatchance]

Was the retainer clip still outside the bearing?

 

[ALEXR]

Retainer clip?

 

[fatchance]

C-clip that holds the bearing in the wheel

 

[ALEXR]

Yes. It was seated properly. Everything was seated, tight, aligned, etc. I've done numerous AC skids. Not my first rodeo.

Perhaps an idea. Appreciate the thought. Alex.