Grinding mystery ???!!

[Paystar]

I only have a Dragy not timing lights so I don't have as scientific documentation as TD does (supposedly) but I think more than a few race guys have documented tighter is faster (if someone care about that). For a standard trail rider, I'm sure it doesn't matter so much but again when I hear that video I went right to track is too loose. And then he says track hangs off slide rails 2"! That's way too much.

Hangs two inches when you apply 20 lbs of hanging weight as the set up manual states

 

[Paystar]

To me, this video sounds like noise is in chain case, not track/track drive. Sounds like tensioner is clanking back and forth. Is tensioner spring broke? Is it correctly installed? Is chain tension set correctly?

Yes. Took chain case apart, too visually see it, everything was perfect

 

[Paystar]

Where do you have the limiter straps set?

I think second to the tightest hole

 

[Paystar]

The drivers were never off the driveshaft?

Never

 

[Sevey]

This is gonna be an ‘easy’ fix or a ‘not so easy’ fix.

-On the ‘easy’ side- is the loose track rubbing on the front skid arm - on the steel guide on the top? Like slapping on it.
- any chance (assuming it’s a 137) you didn’t install the rear shock carrier properly and it’s dragging on the bottom of the track.

On the ‘difficult’ side- if its coming from the chain case- better get it open and see what’s going on in there.

It’s tough to isolate on the video where it is originating . Run it and put your head up to the chaincase and see where the sound is. Even put a screwdriver on the case and put the end of the screw driver in your ear. If it’s metallic it will come through the case and easily present itself.
Ms

 

[Sevey]

Did you make sure the two top gears were pushed together right when reinstalling. Something may be loose in there.
Ms

 

[Paystar]

Did you make sure the two top gears were pushed together right when reinstalling. Something may be loose in there.
Ms

I did! Twice! When it’s on the stand there was little noise. I took it for a ride 1 mile zero noise and thought it was good to go. Dad unloaded it at his place and it started again.

 

[Kenneth Rogers]

Did you mount the suspension back in the same holes that it came out of? I didn’t one time and it made terrible noises when driving.

 

[Paystar]

Did you mount the suspension back in the same holes that it came out of? I didn’t one time and it made terrible noises when driving.

I did! I made sure

 

[KnappAttack]

While turning the track manually.

It's all totally normal. You have to realize the track is trying to out accelerate the drive sprocket cogs. There is about .010" of "lead" built into the drive sprocket lugs by design, so when under power, the cogs engage on top side without ratcheting. So while turning by hand, the track is trying to outrun the sprockets. If you pull the track in the opposite direction, it will roll easy till the track catches up on the back side of the cog. The track is always trying to outrun the "sprocket cogs".

When on the stand, I hit the track, lugs, drive sprockets and sliders with silicone spray while it's turning, so it's not dry and making this racket. Also, I run my tracks tight and fully clipped. Loose track is not fast just because it turns over easily on the stand which most people don't realize. Everyone that doesn't know better, thinks because it rolls easily on the stand its most efficient being loose, which is not true if your running studs in the track certainly. The added weight of the studs, and cutting track cords cause ballooning, so it has to be far tighter than you think it should be. When revving it on the stand, it should not ballon off the bottom of the rail by only an inch a half at best after being run from a ride with cold rails and stretched track.

 

[74Nitro]

I think Mike is right here. My sled and most of the Winders I wrench on make this noise. It is hard to tell in the video.
However, the noise should be gone once you get to about 30mph. If it isn't then something may in fact be wrong.

Also agree with Mike on the tight track. If the track is too loose it's the whipping that kills speed. You'd be very surprised how far the track over shoots off the front drivers. When I ran my track at factory spec with studs, they were contacting the fins on front heat exchanger at speeds over 100mph. And there's a lot of space in there.

 

[Paystar]

It's all totally normal. You have to realize the track is trying to out accelerate the drive sprocket cogs. There is about .010" of "lead" built into the drive sprocket lugs by design, so when under power, the cogs engage on top side without ratcheting. So while turning by hand, the track is trying to outrun the sprockets. If you pull the track in the opposite direction, it will roll easy till the track catches up on the back side of the cog. The track is always trying to outrun the "sprocket cogs".

When on the stand, I hit the track, lugs, drive sprockets and sliders with silicone spray while it's turning, so it's not dry and making this racket. Also, I run my tracks tight and fully clipped. Loose track is not fast just because it turns over easily on the stand which most people don't realize. Everyone that doesn't know better, thinks because it rolls easily on the stand its most efficient being loose, which is not true if your running studs in the track certainly. The added weight of the studs, and cutting track cords cause ballooning, so it has to be far tighter than you think it should be. When revving it on the stand, it should not ballon off the bottom of the rail by only an inch a half at best after being run from a ride with cold rails and stretched track.

It’s all strange to me because the 23 riot and 23 thundercat we have dont make a racket like this. It’s also did it when the track was tight tight.

 

[Paystar]

I have a bunch of video on this but I can only send 8 seconds or so at a time, not sure how to get the most video for you guys.

 

[KnappAttack]

It’s all strange to me because the 23 riot and 23 thundercat we have dont make a racket like this. It’s also did it when the track was tight tight.

Its going t o take some miles for the new track to stretch and its more prone to being noisy when new and short. Also it appears the track is running off to the right side of the drivers making even more noise hitting on the left side of the drivers. Trust me, that noise is normal and it's not doing anything abnormal.

Line and tighten the track up by pulling it by hand, after running it on the stand and spraying things with silicone spray. It has to have decent amount of silicone spray on it to align properly. You're going to want it tighter than 2" of sag with 20 lbs of weight hanging too! 1.25" at most is more where it should be.

Then go run it and check the tension again, it will stretch especially if it's a stock quiet lug track. They seem to stretch forever, where the aftermarket fully clipped and non quiet lug track doesn't stretch.

 

[STAIN]

Mine does the same thing. 1.5 ripsaw. Worse when dry. Go ride it and get some snow in the skid.