225 Mi. ATTAK REPORT

[Bodacious]

Well had a chance to try this sled out over the weekend. Let me start by saying that this is my first 4 Stroke. The motor is sweet!!!!!!! Starts effortlessly and runs strong, in fact I have never had a motor this much fun to run. If there is any traction available it will hook up and pull, and pull and pull and pull. My perfered riding sttle is off trail, thats why I bought the Attak. I came over from the Doo Camp, with my last sled being an 04' SDI X-Gade. My opion is this, the Attak ofcourse has way more motor, less buzzing, and vibrations overall, no smoke, great trail manners, and sounds way cool. I was riding with a couple of buds that still have 600 SDI Gades. On a couple of fill ups I always use more fuel than do the SDI's. Typically, if I used 5 gallons they used 4 gallons, so somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 percent less fuel economy from my previous sled. ( I have heard that 17 mpg is not uncommon on the $-Stokes???? In fact the best fuel miliage that I've seen so far has been 11 plus, not what I had expected at all, but maybe it is still too early to tell ( I hope). As far as off trail in the 12"-16" that we were running in, I can not keep up to the 600 Renegade chassis, they just float and pull away. The Attak has tons of power but squeeze the throttle and the rear end digs south, and will not come on top at all. I relpaced the skis with the mountain skis and they work much better, they will get the front end up but the rear just stays down digging. This is not a great crossover sled in stock form, if you like to run off trail through the powder . I now need to investigate track replacement Just how much more is the question, I'm hoping that a 16" x 1.5" will solve this problem. I don't want to stretch out the sled if I don't have to. I'm hoping for some good advise from this forum. I really don't want to put on a 1.75" profile as that is just too much for hard surface days. I hate to say it but for me and the type of riding I do, the Crossfire, of Renegade may have been a better choice. I did get out on a fairly pack surface an ran anothers buds, Mach Z! The Mach pulled me mid-range on all three runs, but I am very impressed on how close we were together after 2000', less than three sled lenghts, This engine rocks but weight is a factor in the POW. Another thing that takes some getting use too is the engine braking when carving and off-trail woods riding, if you not paying close attention, the engine braking will put you on top of the bars in a second ( while standing and leaning, pulling way out) I 'm getting the hang of it but it is a bit weird at first.

 

[SledFreak]

Bodacious, I believe the main issue you have is within your track. The 1.25 ripsaw is very good for hard pack surfaces. The DOO's have there own 1.25" track which perform and look more like a paddle track. That is why your buds are pulling away from you in the powder. I really don't think you need to go to a 1.75 inch track. A 1.25 like the DOO's or a 1.5" paddle will cure the problem. I think that Yamaha's issue when releasing the Attack with that kind of track. Most mags said the Attack is not great in real loose POWDER and I believe it has to do with the track. I read many reports from Sno-tech on that track and it was indicated that it's not great for off trail riding, but really works well for hard packed surfaces. I believe there was a spring order option to get the 1.25 ripsaw from DOO but it was only on the 121" sleds. They use the standard 1.25" paddle, which works great in the deep stuff.

A clutch kit from Ulmer or CPR will cure the engine braking thing. I remember my REV had it really bad until I put a Cudney Kit in it and then it was totoally gone after that.

 

[dirkdiggler]

You need to adjust the clutching. Buy yourself a Megapower Primary adjuster from Rich motor sports. Dial it down slightly. This will give you less engagement and a roll on engagement instead of the snap in your getting which part of what's casueing the trenching.


Then you also go from the 51/43 helix to a strait 43 helix and go to 9 on the helix and 1 in the secondary which will give you 100 degrees. This will slow the up shift which will also stop the trenching and keep the RPMs up. This is a much better deeps snow setup. Get a Dalton 43.

Your track is fine it's the clutching that is hurting you

 

[SledFreak]

Then tell me this, why do all mountain sleds have paddle tracks? The Ripsaw has the ability to flex and bend to acquire great traction on hard packed, because of the slits in the track design. A paddle track do not have these types of ("slits") for that matter and should be used in deep snow application. Like I said that is why DOO and CAT don't use the Rip saw, they use a paddle track.

 

[zipclean]

Has any other Attak owners found the same problems off trail with the Attak?Because thats all I ride is fields and cross country in Saskatchewan if this sled is only good on trails I won't bother picking up the Attak that is coming for me.Also looked at 800HO Renagade maybe better choice for off trails.4 stroke maybe the future, but is the weight going to be that much of a factor?

 

[BADSLED]

I would suggest you try to slow down the upshift like mentioned above before you start spending $ on replacing tracks.

 

[jimmie d]

You need a FULL PADDLE track. The only downfall of the Ripsaw is in the powder. Sell the Ripsaw, which are in demand, and get a FULL PADDLE track.

With the paddle track you will match the floatation of the Renegade. The Yamaha mountain skis are ideal for your riding style.

Jim

 

[SledFreak]

Has any other Attak owners found the same problems off trail with the Attak?Because thats all I ride is fields and cross country in Saskatchewan if this sled is only good on trails I won't bother picking up the Attak that is coming for me.Also looked at 800HO Renagade maybe better choice for off trails.4 stroke maybe the future, but is the weight going to be that much of a factor?

The weight has nothing to do with it......

 

[SRXSRULE]

Ripsaws SUCK off trail. Sell it while its still close to new! ===SRXSRULE===

 

[SledFreak]

I would suggest you try to slow down the upshift like mentioned above before you start spending $ on replacing tracks.

Do you really think the clutching would be that bad that it would just start digging a trench everywhere. I could see maybe out of the whole, but he says it pretty much is not good anywhere. The track is the answer.

 

[Mighty]

Do it right and do both the paddle track and clutching :ORC
Now is the time to talk to the dealer and have him swap out the track for you. We can help you with the clutching.

 

[dirkdiggler]

Then tell me this, why do all mountain sleds have paddle tracks? The Ripsaw has the ability to flex and bend to acquire great traction on hard packed, because of the slits in the track design. A paddle track do not have these types of ("slits") for that matter and should be used in deep snow application. Like I said that is why DOO and CAT don't use the Rip saw, they use a paddle track.

This guys isn't riding in 5 to 6 plus feet of powder like you do in the mountains. The 1.25 track will work just fine if you adjust the clutching for the conditions. Yamaha has the Apex line running strong at 80 hp to the track from the factory. they clutching shifts quick and hard. That style of clutching isn't going to be optimal for off trail boon docking. These sleds come from the factory setup to work OK in all conditions. If you want the sled to excel in drag racing you change. If you want it to work well on hard pack trails that have super tight corner to corner conditions you adjust your clutching. Last but not least in this argument if you want your sled to work well off trail in the Midwest you must go to a mountain style of clutching. Which consists of shallow helix's and a butt load of twist to give you a ton of back shift in the secondary to keep the RPM's up and the up-shift down.

If you really want to get crazy ya you could go to a 1.5 or a 2 inch lug track but I can tell you in 3 to 4 feet of snow with the proper clutching the Ripsaw will work great.

 

[dirkdiggler]

I would suggest you try to slow down the upshift like mentioned above before you start spending $ on replacing tracks.

Do you really think the clutching would be that bad that it would just start digging a trench everywhere. I could see maybe out of the whole, but he says it pretty much is not good anywhere. The track is the answer.

Stop telling him to change his track. For 60.00 he can buy a helix and adjust the clutching.

 

[fstblkwarrior]

Most of my riding is off trail and that's why I hated my Warrior so much, especially when I was getting my a$$ kicked by a stock Viper!!! I could go farther and faster with my stock Rev800 than the Warrior. Unfortunately I didn't really realize it was the track until the Warrior was long gone.... There's no way around it, ripsaw is the BEST non studded trail track, and just below avg. off trail. You can claim clutching all you want, ripsaw is a trail track.


EDIT- before anyone tries to tell me clutching is the answer we tried a ripsaw on my buddies rev (same as mine) and it sucked off trail. I was kicking his arse with my stocker.

 

[dirkdiggler]

Most of my riding is off trail and that's why I hated my Warrior so much, especially when I was getting my a$$ kicked by a stock Viper!!! I could go farther and faster with my stock Rev800 than the Warrior. Unfortunately I didn't really realize it was the track until the Warrior was long gone.... There's no way around it, ripsaw is the BEST non studded trail track, and just below avg. off trail. You can claim clutching all you want, ripsaw is a trail track.

Did you apply the clutching I suggested? If not don't say it's the ripsaw. I ran the ripsaw in Deep snow without a problem. Hell you can make anylug track work well in anycondition with teh proper clutching. Would a 1.5 or 2 inch paddle work better in 4 foot plus snow "yes".