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225 Mi. ATTAK REPORT

If he rides only in 12-16" off trail I would say he's fine with the 1.25" Ripsaw. Try CLUTCHING!!!
 

Bodacious said:
I now need to investigate track replacement :moon: Just how much more is the question, I'm hoping that a 16" x 1.5" will solve this problem. I don't want to stretch out the sled if I don't have to. I'm hoping for some good advise from this forum.

If you are going to change the track, go with a 1.375 paddle track. It's in between a 1.25 and a 1.50. They use that on a the F7 snopro. If you were to change the track, that would be an option.
 
Here is a link to a Snow drag in Michigan. The Winner of the race Was using a .75 lug track. The start line was 4 feet of loose snow. He races a tripple Doo in a rev chassis using NOS and a 2 inch paddle.

He detroys him all the way through including the whole shot where he puts 5 sleds on him in 100 feet. You can see the huge roosts of snow they are throwing. You'd think that big paddle would be better in the deep snow but it wasn't.



http://www.lightningprollc.com/?pag...n Mod Schuss Mountain Drag Races 05 large.wmv
 
Just a imagine if you would of clutched your sled. The Z would have been surprised.
 
It works well. But I suggest you get it from the same famous designer I got it from. You might have to get a different print because mine was in limited production.


Roller Skate Girl says hello!!!
 
DIRK, this clutching you are talking about, if the back shift is harder won't that make it even worse to drive in powder? From what I here guys don't like the engine brake effect now and more back shift will make the front end dive. NO ? YES?
 
dirkdiggler said:
Here is a link to a Snow drag in Michigan. The Winner of the race Was using a .75 lug track. The start line was 4 feet of loose snow. He races a tripple Doo in a rev chassis using NOS and a 2 inch paddle.

He detroys him all the way through including the whole shot where he puts 5 sleds on him in 100 feet. You can see the huge roosts of snow they are throwing. You'd think that big paddle would be better in the deep snow but it wasn't.



http://www.lightningprollc.com/?pag...n Mod Schuss Mountain Drag Races 05 large.wmv
I agree, I would only use a 1" 9818 track with 1.325 studs for Snow drags. You don't need a paddle track for drag racing. It's because it robs way too much power. All I'm saying is he is driving in deep powder snow, which requires a paddle track. Yes, clutching will probably not hurt the situation.....
 
zipclean said:
DIRK, this clutching you are talking about, if the back shift is harder won't that make it even worse to drive in powder? From what I here guys don't like the engine brake effect now and more back shift will make the front end dive. NO ? YES?

No your front end won't dive. This is different then engine breaking. You do this to slow the upshift and maintain high RPMs to eliminate engine bog as you boon-dock. Let me explain how it works.


1. The steeper the helix the quicker the up shift. So you start out by going right to the 43 degree helix which is the finish angle on your stock helix. Then the secondary will not open as fast as it does with the 51/43 it comes with stock and it will slow the speed of your track.

2. When you increase the twist of the spring on your secondary you increase back-shift and decrease up-shift. the Up shift is what causes your track to spin quickly. So the combination of a shallow helix and More spring twist will significantly reduce the track spin.

3. Now By increasing the back shift via twist it will keep your belt high in the secondary and keep your rpms up. You will always have lighting fast throttle response but a Slower track speed because you will always be up in the RPM"s with the high belt position and the increased twist. So as you boon dock and navigate through the trees your sled will not bog as you vary the throttle.
 
WOW!!!!! Thanks for all the responces. Clutching may help, but traction in loose snow is my issue. Even from a roll and slowly powering up the rear end just digs and goes south. The ripsaw has enormous traction on the harder surfaces, actually, even if I get into a single track trench that I made previously it works pretty well. It just won't let you stay afloat in the fresh. If you are on the side of the road, say doing 35 mph (plowed surface) and ease over to the ditchline the sled just hits a "wall" and much , much more throttle is required to even try to maintain close to the same speed . Anybody want to buy a 136" ripsaw w/ 108 studs , and 225 miles? For Yamaha to put this track on 136" chassis and call it a "crossover sled" is a grave error on their part.
 
Rotax! said:
Then tell me this, why do all mountain sleds have paddle tracks? The Ripsaw has the ability to flex and bend to acquire great traction on hard packed, because of the slits in the track design. A paddle track do not have these types of ("slits") for that matter and should be used in deep snow application. Like I said that is why DOO and CAT don't use the Rip saw, they use a paddle track.
But the Crossfire has the 136" RIPSAW and works quite well in the POW. So either track angle approach, or being a much heavier sled, or both may have something to do with it as well.
 
O.K. that makes more sense.But should a guy set up that way for 12-18" of snow? Here we ride on some soft snow but mainly stubble fields that are fairly firm and frozen later in the year.We do get ito some 24" powder but not for long of very often.Came off a 800M/Cat with a 62/38 helix and 82gr. weights so I know about upshift. worked good were I ride.Probably will go to an Ulmer kit if I take delivery of the Attak.Thanx
 
I am fairly new to off trail riding so just out of curiosity, does the deep snow settle and firm up later in the season? Maybe his problem is just due to powdery conditions. Some of the trail reports say they are having problems rolling the trails. It just won't pack.
 
I had no issues with the stock 1.25"x136"x15'" OEM track the DOO sent out on the 04' Gade. It worked pretty well in all conditions. I would have to agree that the RIPSAW hooks up better on hard pack, but it really isn't a fair comparinson to the 118hp 600 Doo motor. The 150 Gen. Motor is very strong indeed. Not a 175+ Mach Z motor, but very, very, strong.
 


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