dropped off my 03 rx1 le to my sled guy.told him to replace the jack shaft bearing,inspect clutchs,rear suspension,(look closeley at h-frame)basically go over it from head to toe and repair or replace anything worn or cracked or broken.other than a set of plugs(first set),oil & filter,and the jackshaft bearing,it needed nothing 
the jack shaft bearing was a little tight but not that bad.this sled rocks 
the jack shaft bearing was a little tight but not that bad.this sled rocks 
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You must drive it like a 10 year old girl.
Same mileage:
2 tracks (shredded),
3 broken control rods (2 uppers, 1 lower),
busted up W-arm,
*every* bearing on the back end,
also every BUSHING on the back end,
1 shaft (upper W-arm pivot).
Same mileage:
2 tracks (shredded),
3 broken control rods (2 uppers, 1 lower),
busted up W-arm,
*every* bearing on the back end,
also every BUSHING on the back end,
1 shaft (upper W-arm pivot).
Or he doesn't beat the crap out of it 
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah.... that might be it.
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- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
right, crap beater..... 
lol
lol
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
LOL. I never broke that many parts on my Exciter, and I beat it even harder... because its lighter and I could.
Never'll happen again with custom super reinforced modified proaction skid. :twisted:
Never'll happen again with custom super reinforced modified proaction skid. :twisted:
..... L.M.A.O.I've seen plenty of two strokes that were only driven on sundays by little old lady types that didn't even come close to that milage.
Whether you pound on it or not things due wear out or break. You put on those types of miles and that's all you had to change out, that speaks highly on your ride. Which just happens to be a YAMAHA Then again just how lucky are you? horny red devil
Pro
I think that is great!!! You could of went alot longer without a checkup because that sled pretty much got a clean bill of health. I'm a hundred shy on 5,000 miles on my viper you have me thinking of taken the thing in and getting checked out to make myself feel better for next year?ONLY YAMAHA. :twisted:
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
If you want to check the machine over yourself, its easy (just very time consuming);
Pop off the skid, make sure that your bearings all turn smooth.
Remove the W-arm and inspect all the bushings at both ends to make sure that they aren't worn, replace as necessary.
Inspect the W-arm carefully for cracking, particularly around the welds just above the bumper stops. Replace if there are any cracks.
Remove one of the back upper wheels from the shaft, slide out the shaft with the other wheel still on. Check the bushings.
Check the loops on the upper control rods for any slight cracks, replace with aftermarket extra strong rods if cracks are detected.
Remove main spring/shock and inspect bushings.
Remove back wheels and remove lower control rods, inspect loops on lower control rods and the weld above them for any signs of stress. Replace or reinforce if they appear compromised.
Remove secondary clutch
Now at this point it gets a little tough. To inspect the jackshaft bearing properly, you really need to get it removed, but good luck removing it without damaging it. Better to replace it now, since if it *does* explode, you're REALLY SCREWED.
Driveshaft bearing; remove it, don't forget about the locking bolts inside the tunnel to release it from the shaft, it should just slide out easily to make for an easy inspection. Lubricate or replace as necessary. Personally, its again a really important bearing, best to replace it.
Both of those 2 bearings under the hood are ~$50 CDN, $100 every 5k miles is cheap maintenance compared to the eventual liklihood of having one of them explode and destroying something that is *MUCH* more expensive.
Reassemble, grease everything. Reinstall skid.
Pop off the skid, make sure that your bearings all turn smooth.
Remove the W-arm and inspect all the bushings at both ends to make sure that they aren't worn, replace as necessary.
Inspect the W-arm carefully for cracking, particularly around the welds just above the bumper stops. Replace if there are any cracks.
Remove one of the back upper wheels from the shaft, slide out the shaft with the other wheel still on. Check the bushings.
Check the loops on the upper control rods for any slight cracks, replace with aftermarket extra strong rods if cracks are detected.
Remove main spring/shock and inspect bushings.
Remove back wheels and remove lower control rods, inspect loops on lower control rods and the weld above them for any signs of stress. Replace or reinforce if they appear compromised.
Remove secondary clutch
Now at this point it gets a little tough. To inspect the jackshaft bearing properly, you really need to get it removed, but good luck removing it without damaging it. Better to replace it now, since if it *does* explode, you're REALLY SCREWED.
Driveshaft bearing; remove it, don't forget about the locking bolts inside the tunnel to release it from the shaft, it should just slide out easily to make for an easy inspection. Lubricate or replace as necessary. Personally, its again a really important bearing, best to replace it.
Both of those 2 bearings under the hood are ~$50 CDN, $100 every 5k miles is cheap maintenance compared to the eventual liklihood of having one of them explode and destroying something that is *MUCH* more expensive.
Reassemble, grease everything. Reinstall skid.
Snorover
Expert
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- 2017 Viper
Those sealed bearing have a poor quality grease in them(thats my opinion), all you have to do is pop the o rings off, then pop the seal off. In most cases you just have to add a good quality grease and put the seal back on, also the o ring. Some will need to be cleaned out with carb cleaner, then blow dry before adding grease.
I do this every other year, except for the drive shaft bearing which I do at least every year and sometimes twice a year.
I completly remove the skid when I do the boggy wheels.I did mine this spring and thats all I had to do as the bearings were all good and also the bushings were all good. Thats with 6700 miles. 
I do this every other year, except for the drive shaft bearing which I do at least every year and sometimes twice a year.
I completly remove the skid when I do the boggy wheels.I did mine this spring and thats all I had to do as the bearings were all good and also the bushings were all good. Thats with 6700 miles.
i found not studding the track doubles its life i guess its hard to brake theses things on nice smooth canadian trails
i guess its hard to brake theses things on nice smooth canadian trails 
snowmotion
Expert
Wish I would Know when I hiy 5000
My Odometer died at 2993 so I may never know when I get to 5000
but I also expect most of things LB replaced to need some attention if not more.
I am suprized the jack shaft bearings Need Work in that millage.
I never replaced it in my Last Sled EVER
Regardless my track looks pretty Tired skies skags are toast spindles toast
but the stock a arms still appear to be in one piece heavy but strong I guess.
I try Keep my Sled Well lubed but My biggest Milage issue has been Belts
My sled Chews em up Very Fast and honestly the best luck I have Had with a Belt is the Last one which is a Gates
I was hoping to not need to pull this sled apart to much as far as bearings and such so I am curious how many others have needed all that work?
My Odometer died at 2993 so I may never know when I get to 5000
but I also expect most of things LB replaced to need some attention if not more.
I am suprized the jack shaft bearings Need Work in that millage.
I never replaced it in my Last Sled EVER
Regardless my track looks pretty Tired skies skags are toast spindles toast
but the stock a arms still appear to be in one piece heavy but strong I guess.
I try Keep my Sled Well lubed but My biggest Milage issue has been Belts
My sled Chews em up Very Fast and honestly the best luck I have Had with a Belt is the Last one which is a Gates
I was hoping to not need to pull this sled apart to much as far as bearings and such so I am curious how many others have needed all that work?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Simple thing to check on that odo issue, IF your speedo also isn't working, check that the toothed thingy didn't fall off the driveshaft and that the wires to the pickup are still connected.
snow motion,why are your spindles toast?
whits-end
Pro
As usual, LB is right on. These suspension service items (along with carbs, clutches, etc.) need to checked every year. If it sounds like a lot of time and labour, it is! But personally, I'd rather do it in a warm shop, than on the side of a trail in February.
If you don't do your own service, consider this: Your dealer probably won't include most of this in a 'pre-season check-up', because you'd freak when you got the bill. How many times have you heard someone whining that their sled broke, even though they had a 'dealer check-up'.
What do you expect for $29.95?
This is labour intensive work that applies to all makes and models. Might seem expensive, but ignored, it will lead to more expensive repairs.
That's why people who can afford it trade sleds every year. But that brings up another point: Would you buy a used sled from someone who claims "I've never spent a nickel on it" ?
If you don't do your own service, consider this: Your dealer probably won't include most of this in a 'pre-season check-up', because you'd freak when you got the bill. How many times have you heard someone whining that their sled broke, even though they had a 'dealer check-up'.
What do you expect for $29.95?
This is labour intensive work that applies to all makes and models. Might seem expensive, but ignored, it will lead to more expensive repairs.
That's why people who can afford it trade sleds every year. But that brings up another point: Would you buy a used sled from someone who claims "I've never spent a nickel on it" ?
