Sadly the seasons over. Been a challenging one since tough to get out much when local trails were only open 2 weeks but I did get 2500mi on. This will be my inspection and replacement thread. Will be replacing most bearings Jackshaft,chaincase and Driveshaft for first time this time. I have just replaced brake pads and will regrease all Bogey wheels. I have not replaced a single wheel,bearing or bushing the entire life of this sled other than the upper A-arm pivot bushings which were rusty and wore. Everything else is original. To me that is impressive!
Hours
As you can see the divider which I ran glued in with silicone this season has survived. So there is solution to it cracking. I originally thought it was a modified airbox issue but after many others with stock airboxes also found theirs cracked. Problem solved. I also made a aluminum block off vs the Excell plastic piece. This has also worked well. Still intact and no leaks.
Header wrap. While the majority has held up well this spot didnt. I see no evidence of rubbing so I assume it just burned away. I will have the Ulmer/Straightline header Ceramic coated and also wrap it for next year. Not sure if flex joint can be worked around for Ceramic coating but will find out.
Hours
As you can see the divider which I ran glued in with silicone this season has survived. So there is solution to it cracking. I originally thought it was a modified airbox issue but after many others with stock airboxes also found theirs cracked. Problem solved. I also made a aluminum block off vs the Excell plastic piece. This has also worked well. Still intact and no leaks.
Header wrap. While the majority has held up well this spot didnt. I see no evidence of rubbing so I assume it just burned away. I will have the Ulmer/Straightline header Ceramic coated and also wrap it for next year. Not sure if flex joint can be worked around for Ceramic coating but will find out.
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What is the orange wrap for in the last picture?
spin1
Extreme
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2015
- Messages
- 50
- Location
- wisconsin
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016 yamaha viper r tx le 2016 yamaha viper l tx dx
Being from Wisconsin your right about the terrible snow season.When I did ride i was always on the look out with the minimal snow. Cograts on getting a good sled, hope i am as lucky as you!
I didnt like how the wires all just hang there. Wrapped it to keep them from rubbing there. With this many miles any rubbing will be about through. Checking over wires or even complete harness replacement is really not a bad idea. Even my SRX under engine the wires were all wore through and that was at 5000mi. Struggled with weird electrical issues for a whole season before this site pointed me in right direction. Ever since been really cautious with wires.
Waiting on a new center shock I am trying so I didnt drop suspension yet but at this point a guy should to take all weight off track. Instead I just loosened it all the way and supported it with Jackstand. Starting on Caliper side.
Remove caliper guard/support and toehold.
Remove clip. Tool shown works awesome!
Remove 3 10mm bolts behind caliper inside tunnel. Gearwrench and small air ratchet works well.
(Optional)Remove Brakeline from Caliper. This fluid will remove powdercoating very quickly so catch it with rags or I like the oil drain container for this also.
Remove Caliper/Bearing/disc as a whole assy. Wiggle and pull. Once off it comes out by leaning it towards left side of belly pan. Then disc can be slid out opposite caliper.
First issue Inoticed a few weeks ago when changing brake pads. The caliper has no stainless sliders for pads(sheetmetal wear points) so the pad backing plates wear grooves in to the caliper from sliding around on the aluminum. I turned this into warranty and ordered a whole new Caliper. These grooves make changing wore pads very difficult since they catch on grooves making piston compression almost impossible. I dont take chances with my brakes since I use them alot. Hopefully Yamaha feels same and covers it. Would like to see someone offer some slide inserts to prevent this. Would improve brake feel also.
The good news. Have repacked China Drive bearing every season. It feels great and looks great. It has also not wore into the driveshaft which I did put some peen marks in to help prevent inner race from spinning on shaft. All is good there.
Here is brand new assembly. Is good amount of grease in there. Will not touch it till next season.
Chaincase/Oil change is next
Remove caliper guard/support and toehold.
Remove clip. Tool shown works awesome!
Remove 3 10mm bolts behind caliper inside tunnel. Gearwrench and small air ratchet works well.
(Optional)Remove Brakeline from Caliper. This fluid will remove powdercoating very quickly so catch it with rags or I like the oil drain container for this also.
Remove Caliper/Bearing/disc as a whole assy. Wiggle and pull. Once off it comes out by leaning it towards left side of belly pan. Then disc can be slid out opposite caliper.
First issue Inoticed a few weeks ago when changing brake pads. The caliper has no stainless sliders for pads(sheetmetal wear points) so the pad backing plates wear grooves in to the caliper from sliding around on the aluminum. I turned this into warranty and ordered a whole new Caliper. These grooves make changing wore pads very difficult since they catch on grooves making piston compression almost impossible. I dont take chances with my brakes since I use them alot. Hopefully Yamaha feels same and covers it. Would like to see someone offer some slide inserts to prevent this. Would improve brake feel also.
The good news. Have repacked China Drive bearing every season. It feels great and looks great. It has also not wore into the driveshaft which I did put some peen marks in to help prevent inner race from spinning on shaft. All is good there.
Here is brand new assembly. Is good amount of grease in there. Will not touch it till next season.
Chaincase/Oil change is next
Last edited:
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nice follow up report. Time to start on mine.
FrozenTows4
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2014
- Messages
- 489
- Age
- 66
- Location
- Brainerd Minnesota
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 XF7000 Sold
2017 ZR6000RS
2018 ZR6000 El Tigre
- YOUTUBE
- FrozenTows1
Thanks for these Great write ups! I'll be digging into the same shortly.
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
China bearing in the new assembly?
In Brake/bearing assy? Yes same China bearing in original and new one. I believe if maintained its big enough that it doesnt matter. Key is every year to clean and grease that bearing and also look for wear on Driveshaft from the inner race spinning on driveshaft. Very common issue.
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
More coming. I believe I have everything now for Jackshaft conversion and just got new Driver and axle set.Thanks and Great pictures!
Start with Parts list for 16 Jackshaft Update. Number 16 and 17 are reverse order in this diagram. Washer Goes Against Gear! Snapring goes on first.
Last edited:
Actual Parts comparison
Here is Chaincase r/r thread I did while back
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-removal-and-inspection.130877/
Once Chaincase is apart and suspension removed Driver/Axle is just slid to the left brake side and out it comes.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-removal-and-inspection.130877/
Once Chaincase is apart and suspension removed Driver/Axle is just slid to the left brake side and out it comes.
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Is it difficult to remove the old bearing in the chaincase? Special tools?
Similar threads
