ADAPT Verses TAPP

[justinator]

So I guess there is no concensus on what's better for higher HP trail riding? ADAPT, TAPP or PB80?

Someone gained 4mph switching stock clutch to an ADAPT.
Someone else gained 4 mph moving from ADAPT to a PB80. lol SO that's 8 mph better?! Or were those replies sarcastic?

If your running over 300hp and want the best and the most durable clutch with capability for more hp then of course it will be the tapp. The adapt works well and has more options for adjustability and tuning over the pb80. A well clutched, maintained adapt with billet cover will work well and last on a tuned sled. Many are happy with the pb80 but having no experience with one I cant say its better than adapt. Slow998 gained 4mph on top speed removing team and installing adapt. The other poster who claimed 4mph gain over adapt was in a 1000ft. I think proper tuning of adapt could get those 4mph back. I read on here pb80 didnt shift out as far as yamha clutch or adapt so maybe a slower clutch for max top speed. I think they will all satisfy most users. With anything theres gonna be some bad experiences. I have first hand seen tapp clutch failure, fb posts with pb80 and adapt issues. I have experienced none of that with tapp or adapt.

 

[74Nitro]

The Adapt seems tempting for the $$$.

 

[Upstater57]

Like my ADAPT so far, I put in Dalton weights and a billet cover after about 750 miles. Saw no wear issues but 750 miles is not a lot of miles. You can hear some belt squeal at low speed which may be noise from the bearing. Not sure on that front. The clutch is easy to work on and the bearing is replaceable if needed. The is one of the good things about the clutch is that everything is replaceable and the parts are relatively cheap.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

The Adapt seems tempting for the $$$.

Agreed.

So buying an ADAPT empty. Looks like the bolt is needed, puller, springs, weights...pins for the weights too?

 

[Turboflash]

The Adapt seems tempting for the $$$.

$390 uncalibrated at Country Cat.

 

[Turboflash]

Agreed.

So buying an ADAPT empty. Looks like the bolt is needed, puller, springs, weights...pins for the weights too?

2 choices on bolt. Either get the new official ADAPT bolt or buy the official Cat spacer and re-use the Team bolt.
ADAPT you need "hardware kit", spring, and weights.

 

[Big Ugly]

My adapt with billet cover and adjustable weights made one season ( 5000 miles) before the button, dampeners went and the bearings. I am going to rebuild it so to better compare the two clutches. As for performance the PB 80 I find to be considerably better on the lake it runs strong all the way to top end seeing 126 consistently on my gauge where as the adapt 123 - 124. So, I have to think that the PB 80 is shifting out just fine. My sled is stock tuned

 

[74Nitro]

My adapt with billet cover and adjustable weights made one season ( 5000 miles) before the button, dampeners went and the bearings. I am going to rebuild it so to better compare the two clutches. As for performance the PB 80 I find to be considerably better on the lake it runs strong all the way to top end seeing 126 consistently on my gauge where as the adapt 123 - 124. So, I have to think that the PB 80 is shifting out just fine. My sled is stock tuned

Which adjustable weights were they?
And wow, great season of 5000 miles!

 

[KnappAttack]

The Adapt seems tempting for the $$$.

Until it cracks, and it will at some point right... There has been reports of Adapt explosions already, even those using billet covers, and for whatever reason, Cat just can't get a clutch to last. I remember always having at least two Cat clutches in the race trailer when I ran Cats because they have been notorious for cracking cast clutches for over 30+ years now... Nothing changes from that aspect it seems.

I didn't want to, but eventually I invested in a TAPP. IMO its a better value in the end vs going thru just two clutches cracking, or even worse an explosion. The 100% billet four arm TAPP has proven to take BIG POWER and last, they go on multiple machines during their life they are that reliable and long lasting.

That said, IMO the best cast clutch that will take power and hold up is the old RX-1 or Apex primary for the Sidewinder secondary and belt application.

If I had a Cat, I'm not sure I'd switch to an Adapt myself, knowing how well the PB80 worked on the 1.5" Ski Doo belt width 1200 turbos. They perform well and pull nicely into OD easily on the 1.5" belt like the Doo and Cat use.

 

[Big Ugly]

Which adjustable weights were they?
And wow, great season of 5000 miles!

Mag weights. Thanks, I really miss last winter lol

 

[74Nitro]

Until it cracks, and it will at some point right... There has been reports of Adapt explosions already, even those using billet covers, and for whatever reason, Cat just can't get a clutch to last. I remember always having at least two Cat clutches in the race trailer when I ran Cats because they have been notorious for cracking cast clutches for over 30+ years now... Nothing changes from that aspect it seems.

I didn't want to, but eventually I invested in a TAPP. IMO its a better value in the end vs going thru just two clutches cracking, or even worse an explosion. The 100% billet four arm TAPP has proven to take BIG POWER and last, they go on multiple machines during their life they are that reliable and long lasting.

That said, IMO the best cast clutch that will take power and hold up is the old RX-1 or Apex primary for the Sidewinder secondary and belt application.

If I had a Cat, I'm not sure I'd switch to an Adapt myself, knowing how well the PB80 worked on the 1.5" Ski Doo belt width 1200 turbos. They perform well and pull nicely into OD easily on the 1.5" belt like the Doo and Cat use.

I see. I hadn't heard that the adapts were coming apart.

 

[KnappAttack]

I see. I hadn't heard that the adapts were coming apart.

I've seen pictures of them, who knows what people do to them, but I've even seen the billet covers broken too. I've heard they wear out buttons quickly, which doesn't surprise me. When they moved the buttons closer to the centerline, I was wondering what they were thinking there.

I'm guessing they have new engineers in there and didn't know any better or they forgot their past history, the old engineers have been there and done that already. It happens.

Moving towers out from the centerline rather than in, always made the buttons last longer and transferred power better and more efficiently to the track. Cat went backwards on that IMO. I get they wanted a lighter clutch better throttle response, but I've never seen throttle response win a drag race, quite the opposite in fact. I find it funny when people want them to react quick on the stand and go right to peak RPM so quickly... It's the same people that want their track to turn easily on the stand by hand. They just never win a race doing this stuff like that.

 

[jonlafon1]

Adapt Roller Conversion Kit (ARC)

Transform your Adapt Primary Clutch into a full slider clutch!

ibexx.com

Wonder if this would help with buttons? I don't know anyone that's tried this on a adapt. Not sure if its a terrible idea or great idea?

 

[Big Ugly]

Adapt Roller Conversion Kit (ARC)

Transform your Adapt Primary Clutch into a full slider clutch!

ibexx.com

Wonder if this would help with buttons? I don't know anyone that's tried this on a adapt. Not sure if its a terrible idea or great idea?

Have had a set of those rollers here for a few weeks now as soon as I get the rest of the parts for my adapt I will be trying it out against the PB 80 see how they compare

 

[jonlafon1]

Have had a set of those rollers here for a few weeks now as soon as I get the rest of the parts for my adapt I will be trying it out against the PB 80 see how they compare

Let us know how it goes. I bought a set and have zero snow and finished for the year here. These intrigued me some. But I hear no one talk about them. I will be trying them in a 600 cattle blast next winter.

Thanks.