Adjusting piggy back shocks

[Darren Betker]

Looking for someone that has a deep understanding of properly tuning these gytr piggy back front shocks and the rear ohlins.
I have an 06 apex gt and im 6'1 250 lbs with a bad back and need these shocks set up for the smoothest ride period. Trail riding and lake riding on groomed is %99 of my riding. I have a 121 mono ohlins and am currently extending it to 136. Anyone? Just need to know what to set the clickers to. Oh and i have the big boy spring on the rear electric ohlins.

 

[Winderallday!]

A good place to start on the GYTR's is 5 clicks out on the dampening (lower dial) and 10 clicks out on the compression (upper dial), out meaning from fully turned in clockwise, turn ccw 5 and 10 clicks, then adjust to taste.
Can't comment on the Ohlins, never ran one, but in general if not done so already, send it to a shock tuner to get set up (valved) properly for your weight and riding style, makes a world of difference. Same goes for the GYTR's, a refresh/rebuild is key if never done.
A good shock tuner may even suggest a different spring for the Ohlins. The key as with any mono-skid is getting the "sit-in" set up at 40-45mm.
There's a good shock tuner in my neck of the woods that could get you dialed in, PM if you want his information, he ships all over the country. Others may chime in with recommendations too.
Cheers.

 

[WinderFab]

X2 on what Apexallday said as a starting point, I also try and keep the rebound as slow as possible “or less rebound” which helps a lot on trails due to not get bounced around from the suspension coming back up to quickly.

I had my 07 gt rear ohlins revalved after the first year I owned the sled and it make a dig difference in ride for the better, I also kept the rebound as slow as possible in the rear.

Rear transfer plays a big part on the mono, more transfer which will give you less suspension travel which equals rougher ride, with less transfer you have more useable suspension which will give you a better ride through the bumps.

I’m 190 and with the revalved ohlins, rebound about a quarter way out from slow and with the transfer set 1/4- 1/3 out from minimum the sled handled the bumps very well. No transfer would give you almost the full suspension travel but you would experience very heavy steering effort.

 

[Viper_Dave]

I've had GYTR, Ohlin, and Elka on my Apex. That said, setup is very much dependent on what YOU like for feel. Google search Yamaha GYTR Shock setup. There are a couple very good videos there that will help you understand the function and behavior of these shocks. That Ohlins in your skid will amaze you.... Once it's properly valved, sprung and setup to proper preload. I've not owned a Mono skid for a long time, but rode MrSled's remarkably setup Apex. Google search Yamaha Monoshock snowmobile suspension. Several how to videos with good information on proper setup.

 

[Darren Betker]

I have watched so many videos....read so many writeups that im completely overwhelmed. Besides almost all info i have accrued are for people to tune for almost every ride terrain. For me its different. I have a very bad back but refuse to give up the sport. If i have any hope of continuing to get anything at all out of my apex i need this sled to be as absolutely soft as possible. Days of riding aggressively and jumping are long gone. I just want this sled to ride like im on air or its up for sale it goes. Is there no simple way to set all the adjustments on the front and rear for that specifically. How about just setting the rear sag.....that i get.....and just put everything to zero? I also live in the far north where i dont have eady access to someone that can revalve etc. I do have extensive notes taken by previous owner .....and all shocks have been rebuilt /revalved already but allot of it makes no sence. Man i miss the days where all u had to worry about was bottoming out or not. Im lost.

 

[Winderallday!]

Darren: Unless the prior owner weighs very close to you, and rides the way you do, or what you are looking for, then I suggest you send the shock out to a tech that will set the shock valving up for exactly what you want. There are so many variations, none on here can give you the exact settings for your situation, but will be close. I don't think the sled will ever ride like it is floating on air, but can be set up so it does not beat the crap out of you.
The cost to send the shocks by Canada Post is not that terrible, find the smallest box you can, it will be money well spent at the end of the day.
Generally, to get the best action out of the suspension, limiter strap should be 1 set of holes from maximum length, transfer should be set at least to the middle if not towards maximum, and I think the heavier spring will need to go off the Ohlins, it will be harsh. Loosen the pre-load on the front GYTR springs so they rotate freely when the sled is suspended, this drops the front end so A-arms close to parallel or level to the ground and improves handling.
Again, starting points to get you close for now, will PM you a reputable shock guy that I have used in the past with every sled I have owned.
Good luck.

 

[Darren Betker]

Thankyou muchly appreatiated! !!

 

[justin gallant]

X2 on what Apexallday said as a starting point, I also try and keep the rebound as slow as possible “or less rebound” which helps a lot on trails due to not get bounced around from the suspension coming back up to quickly.

I had my 07 gt rear ohlins revalved after the first year I owned the sled and it make a dig difference in ride for the better, I also kept the rebound as slow as possible in the rear.

Rear transfer plays a big part on the mono, more transfer which will give you less suspension travel which equals rougher ride, with less transfer you have more useable suspension which will give you a better ride through the bumps.

I’m 190 and with the revalved ohlins, rebound about a quarter way out from slow and with the transfer set 1/4- 1/3 out from minimum the sled handled the bumps very well. No transfer would give you almost the full suspension travel but you would experience very heavy steering effort.

X2 on what Apexallday said as a starting point, I also try and keep the rebound as slow as possible “or less rebound” which helps a lot on trails due to not get bounced around from the suspension coming back up to quickly.

I had my 07 gt rear ohlins revalved after the first year I owned the sled and it make a dig difference in ride for the better, I also kept the rebound as slow as possible in the rear.

Rear transfer plays a big part on the mono, more transfer which will give you less suspension travel which equals rougher ride, with less transfer you have more useable suspension which will give you a better ride through the bumps.

I’m 190 and with the revalved ohlins, rebound about a quarter way out from slow and with the transfer set 1/4- 1/3 out from minimum the sled handled the bumps very well. No transfer would give you almost the full suspension travel but you would experience very heavy steering effort.

 

[justin gallant]

X2 on what Apexallday said as a starting point, I also try and keep the rebound as slow as possible “or less rebound” which helps a lot on trails due to not get bounced around from the suspension coming back up to quickly.

I had my 07 gt rear ohlins revalved after the first year I owned the sled and it make a dig difference in ride for the better, I also kept the rebound as slow as possible in the rear.

Rear transfer plays a big part on the mono, more transfer which will give you less suspension travel which equals rougher ride, with less transfer you have more useable suspension which will give you a better ride through the bumps.

I’m 190 and with the revalved ohlins, rebound about a quarter way out from slow and with the transfer set 1/4- 1/3 out from minimum the sled handled the bumps very well. No transfer would give you almost the full suspension travel but you would experience very heavy steering effort.

How sick get that less transfer?? Is it by extending transfer rod or shortening in ? I'm 150lbs what should I have that rod set at.. I find she is prety rough on bumps

 

[WinderFab]

Shortening would give you less transfer, it’s something you have to play with, with small adjustments at a time as it makes a huge difference in ride, all the way minimum would give you the most rear travel but puts a lot of weight on the skis, max would do opposite..

What setting is your front strap set at in the rear skid?

It all depends on how your sled is set up..

 

[WinderFab]

Oops

 

[justin gallant]

The little braket that the strap goes around broke off..so right now it's wrapped around the pipe. So it's all the way out. Loose

 

[justin gallant]

Not quite all the way loose actualy . I'm looking some travel wraping the strap around that pipe

 

[WinderFab]

Not sure what you mean about “bracket that the strap goes around” ?

The strap is supposed to go around the bottom and top pipe.

 

[justin gallant]

Not sure what you mean about “bracket that the strap goes around” ?

The strap is supposed to go around the bottom and top pipe.

Yes they had it around a little braket on the top wich broke..so I wrapped it around the top pipe