ROCKRTX
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Yep your is different, my 06 Rtx rubber pass around the rivet like a u shape.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
ROCKRTX said:Yep your is different, my 06 Rtx rubber pass around the rivet like a u shape.
I tried to find a 14mm offset wrench today with no luck, 3 different jobber type stores (CanTire, Sears, Princess Auto)and no one carrys them?
Hoping the one I am borrowing from work is acceptable or I will have to try a mod on one and hope for the best.
Thanks just the same RTX, appreciate your help

spike337
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I bought a 14mm wrench, heated it up, bent it, and still could not budge the nut.
Grimm
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I also have a set of wrench heads that you attach to a ratchet driver. Click together a couple of extensions and you're there.
scott32
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Pull the airbox, bttery and batt. holder, and everything is right there infront of you. This way there is no fighting, fussing, or cussing!! JM2C
Irv
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scott32 said:Pull the airbox, bttery and batt. holder, and everything is right there infront of you. This way there is no fighting, fussing, or cussing!! JM2C
I guess it really doesn't show it in those pics I posted on page 1 but all of the above was removed and it was still impossible to get at(the one pic show the upper steering arm which is completely in the way)
Anways, after trying the offset wrench I got from work today and still having no luck I looked closer at RTX's suggestion about removing the rubber boot.
Mine is riveted but only near the top so I was able to pull the lower part of the boot out and gain access that way.
This job was a total pain but now that it is done and I have a greater adjustment range for future alignments, it was definitley worth it.
Just hope the snow comes back so I can check my toe-out, it should definitely be better than what it was?
Thanks for everyones help.
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actionjack
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I dove into this last night as it looks like my skis are way out after replacing the bushings and a lower A-Arm.
I started at the right side outside jam nut and could not break it loose to the point I am worried about rounding it off.
I read in here that the inside jam nuts are reverse threaded but just checked the fiche and it shows the outside jam nuts to be reverse threaded. Can anyone confirm that?
Oh, and strangely, there is no jam nut on the left (clutch side) outside.
I started at the right side outside jam nut and could not break it loose to the point I am worried about rounding it off.
I read in here that the inside jam nuts are reverse threaded but just checked the fiche and it shows the outside jam nuts to be reverse threaded. Can anyone confirm that?
Oh, and strangely, there is no jam nut on the left (clutch side) outside.
Irv
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actionjack said:I dove into this last night as it looks like my skis are way out after replacing the bushings and a lower A-Arm.
I started at the right side outside jam nut and could not break it loose to the point I am worried about rounding it off.I read in here that the inside jam nuts are reverse threaded but just checked the fiche and it shows the outside jam nuts to be reverse threaded. Can anyone confirm that?
Oh, and strangely, there is no jam nut on the left (clutch side) outside.
1st bold.
I remember mine being tight as well and visually looking at the it was hard to see which way the threads go, but I was able to and used a wrench on the rod to hold it in place while I loosened the jam nut.
2nd bold.
Definitely should be a jam nut,,which makes me think that maybe someone used some Loctite on your other jam nuts?
Heat, depending on the color of Loctite will be the only thing that will bust them loose as far as I know?
Good luck.
actionjack
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Irv, I used you tip to compare the threads and in fact the outside chaincase side lock nut is reverse threaded and came loose. Back to taking everything apart to get to the tough inner lock nuts.
I bought this sled used last January and rode it without doing any maintenance. Now its practically getting rebuilt. A previous owner impacted the clutch side spindle housing pretty good causing the replacement of the lower A-Arm. I think the Lock nut on that side was removed to get the tie rod shorter to compensate for the a-arm damage.
I bought this sled used last January and rode it without doing any maintenance. Now its practically getting rebuilt. A previous owner impacted the clutch side spindle housing pretty good causing the replacement of the lower A-Arm. I think the Lock nut on that side was removed to get the tie rod shorter to compensate for the a-arm damage.
Irv
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actionjack said:Irv, I used you tip to compare the threads and in fact the outside chaincase side lock nut is reverse threaded and came loose. Back to taking everything apart to get to the tough inner lock nuts.
I bought this sled used last January and rode it without doing any maintenance. Now its practically getting rebuilt. A previous owner impacted the clutch side spindle housing pretty good causing the replacement of the lower A-Arm. I think the Lock nut on that side was removed to get the tie rod shorter to compensate for the a-arm damage.
Just the lower one is damaged Actionjack?
You got lucky as both of mine were bent.
The lower one was worse but the upper one was tweeked enough plus it had a wear spot where the shock spring was rubbing on it so I decided to purchase a new ones and be done with it.
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Well if money were no object I guess in hind sight I could replace all 4 arms. The one I replaced was clearly bent. I hand to cut the lower a bolt out of the spindle housing and get a new bolt and collar. It looked like that would solve the front end. Both sides were tough to get together. Probably because both uppers might be tweaked a little. The springs are still close to the uppers but now that the EC Ohlins is out for rebuild I am hoping my last big expense is a new helmet.
Irv
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actionjack said:Well if money were no object I guess in hind sight I could replace all 4 arms. The one I replaced was clearly bent. I hand to cut the lower a bolt out of the spindle housing and get a new bolt and collar. It looked like that would solve the front end. Both sides were tough to get together. Probably because both uppers might be tweaked a little. The springs are still close to the uppers but now that the EC Ohlins is out for rebuild I am hoping my last big expense is a new helmet.
I tried and tried to find used ones but had very minimal luck

One place had some but wouldn't deliver (1 1/2 hr drive one way!)
Other places said they had some but were wrong color and said they "SHOULD" work???
I get tired of looking and wondering what it is I was actually going to receive so I had Monte on here, who was traveling to the states to pick up his new sled, pick me up some, which were almost half price compared to what I could get some up here for!
In hindsight, I am glad I went that route as I now know I have perfect a-arms on there with no other headaches I may have encountered with buying used

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