If you look at the dyno chart, the red line of the exhaust can is the biggest individual gainer. The purple line for the air box is not nearly as impressive.
Combine the two for the green line and you get a nice bump from 7,000-7700 which is nice, but remember this is at WOT. How much time does the viper engine spend below 8,000 RPM at WOT?
Also, look at the sag in both the air box solo and the combined mods. Looks like maybe a bit of a lean sag?
Combine the two for the green line and you get a nice bump from 7,000-7700 which is nice, but remember this is at WOT. How much time does the viper engine spend below 8,000 RPM at WOT?
Also, look at the sag in both the air box solo and the combined mods. Looks like maybe a bit of a lean sag?

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Bang for the buck, stock air box EX silencer wins all day long.


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WOT is full rpm or tapped. Not sure how someone can have wide-open throttle at low RPM.... those would be a partial throttle. Lol
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WOT is full rpm or tapped. Not sure how someone can have wide-open throttle at low RPM.... those would be a partial throttle. Lol
This would appear to be from a Superflow engine dyno. No clutch, direct drive from engine to absorber be it eddy current or water brake.
Load type test no parasitic loss from track, chaincase, etc hence the HP in the 130-140 range.
Would be interesting to see the AF ratio using a wideband on these runs.


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This would appear to be from a Superflow engine dyno. No clutch, direct drive from engine to absorber be it eddy current or water brake.
Load type test no parasitic loss from track, chaincase, etc hence the HP in the 130-140 range.
Would be interesting to see the AF ratio using a wideband on these runs.
I understand how the Dyno works... but WOT is at full shift tapped and full RPMs thus calling it Wide Open Throttle... you need to explain how you see WOT at stepped RPMs.
I could see with a Land and Sea dyno loaded at certain RPMs while holding the WOT and changing the load in increments that intern would change the RPM...
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By my estimation, the runs are as follows:
132 HP stock
137 HP air box
142.5 HP can
144 HP can and intake
So 12 HP total gain yet the flyer says 22 HP gain
Apparently they are looking at a max gain versus peak to peak rating?
132 HP stock
137 HP air box
142.5 HP can
144 HP can and intake
So 12 HP total gain yet the flyer says 22 HP gain
Apparently they are looking at a max gain versus peak to peak rating?
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I think all the dyno numbers posted by any performance company is going to tell what the biggest gain in power is whether it be at peak power or at 7000rpm, peak hp is what matters most

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Will most airbox/can mods require s fuel controller? They don't usually talk about it in these tests.
I have a MBRP trail can coming and like the idea of the airbox mod but don't really want to be adding a controller if I can help it.
Average riding elevation would probably be 1000 feet.
I have a MBRP trail can coming and like the idea of the airbox mod but don't really want to be adding a controller if I can help it.
Average riding elevation would probably be 1000 feet.
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At 1000', yes I wouldn't consider doing intake and exhaust without a fuel controller. Look at it this way, if you're putting more air in and taking more air out, why not do the full package and make it work to it's full potential with a fuel controller, one of the reason the dealer performance packages are so nice because you buy everything all set ready to go for the exact mods you have.


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Will most airbox/can mods require s fuel controller? They don't usually talk about it in these tests.
I have a MBRP trail can coming and like the idea of the airbox mod but don't really want to be adding a controller if I can help it.
Average riding elevation would probably be 1000 feet.
In most cases you would need a controller to get the most out of any engine mods... if you dont do the controller you will not get the max gain out of the mods. I did pipes on my Yamaha bike and was happy NOT adding a controller. Bike ran great with no excess heat and still had great fuel economy and seat of the pants performance.
You could debate that all day as far as this motor. What makes the Viper/7000 fun? The torque, not the the mediocre hp.I think all the dyno numbers posted by any performance company is going to tell what the biggest gain in power is whether it be at peak power or at 7000rpm, peak hp is what matters most
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Peak torque is at 8000 rpm on this engine stock, if you clutch for torque it'll be slow. Peak hp is at 8600, if you clutch for peak hp it'll be slow, I'd be looking for the most hp at 8900-9000 rpm where the engine needs to run

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In most cases you would need a controller to get the most out of any engine mods... if you dont do the controller you will not get the max gain out of the mods. I did pipes on my Yamaha bike and was happy NOT adding a controller. Bike ran great with no excess heat and still had great fuel economy and seat of the pants performance.
Most of my toys that get mods end up with controllers, I just don't see any of these sites talking about the Viper.
The company you linked to looks like a couple sweet products http://excellmotorsports.com/xv7.htm but no mention of a controller.
Who makes a good programmable controller that complements these products?
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Power commander PCV


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Most of my toys that get mods end up with controllers, I just don't see any of these sites talking about the Viper.
The company you linked to looks like a couple sweet products http://excellmotorsports.com/xv7.htm but no mention of a controller.
Who makes a good programmable controller that complements these products?
Excell claims no controller needed. As far as the best controller for the Viper I would think the PCV is the ticket. Thats what I have on my XTX.
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