If at all possible, use the Polaris mounting system for the a-arms. They are meant to protect the cast bulkhead from impact damage by letting the a-arm shear away. I've never tested it but I've read about it on numerous forums from guys who have hit things.
I think it would be well worth the effort to use the RMK style heat exchangers. They work really well to keep the engine cool. The highest engine temperature I have seen so far on my gauge is 150 degrees while riding several miles down a plowed road with a packed snow and ice surface. I checked under my tunnel yesterday while riding in 2' of unpacked snow and there was no ice. The snow that was in the tunnel didn't stick and would fall off.
If you can run the exhaust above the tunnel and not expose it to any snow, I think that will be the set up. I recently learned the Phazer is configured this way and if you use heat shields and insulation, the small weight gain from those components will pay dividends with the reduction in ice. I'd think the tunnel could be made lower and squared off since you wouldn't need the additional space for the header. My Vector had a traditional square tunnel and was wide enough to fit a 16" track. I never had any weird ergo issues with that tunnel, it was also less deep than a Nytro tunnel.
I'm really curious to see how your sled turns out. I'd love to have a light weight sled that handles as good as my Polaris but with a Nytro motor!
I think it would be well worth the effort to use the RMK style heat exchangers. They work really well to keep the engine cool. The highest engine temperature I have seen so far on my gauge is 150 degrees while riding several miles down a plowed road with a packed snow and ice surface. I checked under my tunnel yesterday while riding in 2' of unpacked snow and there was no ice. The snow that was in the tunnel didn't stick and would fall off.
If you can run the exhaust above the tunnel and not expose it to any snow, I think that will be the set up. I recently learned the Phazer is configured this way and if you use heat shields and insulation, the small weight gain from those components will pay dividends with the reduction in ice. I'd think the tunnel could be made lower and squared off since you wouldn't need the additional space for the header. My Vector had a traditional square tunnel and was wide enough to fit a 16" track. I never had any weird ergo issues with that tunnel, it was also less deep than a Nytro tunnel.
I'm really curious to see how your sled turns out. I'd love to have a light weight sled that handles as good as my Polaris but with a Nytro motor!
kennyspec
Expert
did a little bit of prep work for the jig. I am still having trouble thinking of a way to mount the pro A arms to my new tube subframe using the pro style of mounting. I am almost thinking it would be easier to make a laser cut bracket ( i have a laser cutting shop really close to my place and i have CAD software) and mount the arms similar to how the nytro arms are mounted.
I made up one bushing that i will weld to my jig framework to locate the positions of the a arms.
after installing the first bushing i will be knocking out both inner mounting studs and will be running the 3/8" redi rod through both mounting locations to ensure that each bushing is square to each other. not much progress but its a start.
I made up one bushing that i will weld to my jig framework to locate the positions of the a arms.
after installing the first bushing i will be knocking out both inner mounting studs and will be running the 3/8" redi rod through both mounting locations to ensure that each bushing is square to each other. not much progress but its a start.
kennyspec
Expert
Ak rider thanks a lot for your input. I would like to use the pro mounting system, I just don't know how to fabricate those cast tabs on the side of a round tube for my tube frame.
The tunnel idea is still pretty far away but I would like to keep the exhaust above the tunnel. I wonder if I added even a little more exchanger under the tunnel if I could get rid of the stock front cooler.......I have already ditched the rad.
Did a bit more work on the jig. Nothing too special, just made more bushings.
The tunnel idea is still pretty far away but I would like to keep the exhaust above the tunnel. I wonder if I added even a little more exchanger under the tunnel if I could get rid of the stock front cooler.......I have already ditched the rad.
Did a bit more work on the jig. Nothing too special, just made more bushings.
I originally thought you were going to use the cast Pro bulkhead. Another way would be to use a similar a-arm mounting system as the IQR. It has a traditional, welded aluminum bulkhead.
Maybe by checking out some microfiche you could get an idea of how to make it work? I think you are right in using a plate of some sort. Might even be able to buy the Polaris sheet metal a-arm mounting tabs.
Maybe by checking out some microfiche you could get an idea of how to make it work? I think you are right in using a plate of some sort. Might even be able to buy the Polaris sheet metal a-arm mounting tabs.
kennyspec
Expert
Just using the cast bulkhead as a jig. I will be making a chromoly tube subframe like the Nytro currently has.
I think the easiest way will be to make the mounts as a stamped steel type. I can draw some up in cad no problem and have them laser cut out. Then I can even make them form around the main tube a bit for a good contact area. I was just unsure how to make a mount identical to the pro mounting style with the cast tabs. I think the hardest part will be the steering. After looking at the microfiche I have an idea on how to build the steering. Worst part will be connecting the steering shaft through the engine bay.
I think the easiest way will be to make the mounts as a stamped steel type. I can draw some up in cad no problem and have them laser cut out. Then I can even make them form around the main tube a bit for a good contact area. I was just unsure how to make a mount identical to the pro mounting style with the cast tabs. I think the hardest part will be the steering. After looking at the microfiche I have an idea on how to build the steering. Worst part will be connecting the steering shaft through the engine bay.
kennyspec
Expert
Just using the cast bulkhead as a jig. I will be making a chromoly tube subframe like the Nytro currently has.
I think the easiest way will be to make the mounts as a stamped steel type. I can draw some up in cad no problem and have them laser cut out. Then I can even make them form around the main tube a bit for a good contact area. I was just unsure how to make a mount identical to the pro mounting style with the cast tabs. I think the hardest part will be the steering. After looking at the microfiche I have an idea on how to build the steering. Worst part will be connecting the steering shaft through the engine bay.
I think the easiest way will be to make the mounts as a stamped steel type. I can draw some up in cad no problem and have them laser cut out. Then I can even make them form around the main tube a bit for a good contact area. I was just unsure how to make a mount identical to the pro mounting style with the cast tabs. I think the hardest part will be the steering. After looking at the microfiche I have an idea on how to build the steering. Worst part will be connecting the steering shaft through the engine bay.
kennyspec
Expert
No new work on the pro chassis but I did this tonight. Hindle pipe on the wife's sled.
Much lighter and sounds awesome!
Much lighter and sounds awesome!
kennyspec
Expert
After seeing the other pro Nytro thread with so much great success I started working on my project again. I have decided that it will be a lot easier, quicker to use the cast bulkhead for this project. I got the subframe off and got the pro bulkhead positioned in front of the sled. That's all for now.
Will upload some pics in a bit.
Will upload some pics in a bit.
kennyspec
Expert
kennyspec
Expert
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nice !
Looking forward to see more of your build.
I wouldnt mind if you took some pictures of the area that the clutch is close to the casting. I dont have a engine or clutch yet so i have designed my plates from pictures of the nytro engine.
Looking forward to see more of your build.
I wouldnt mind if you took some pictures of the area that the clutch is close to the casting. I dont have a engine or clutch yet so i have designed my plates from pictures of the nytro engine.
kennyspec
Expert
Got my adapter plate hole locations drawn up in cad and made some adapter plates out of some scrap metal. Still need to move the bulkhead forward a bit and maybe lower it a bit for more oil pan clearance.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
what is the stock oil pan clarance and how much are you going to have ?
kennyspec
Expert
Keeping the 2 bottom bolts on the Nytro bulkhead in line with the first bolt on the pro subframe you will have 10mm of oil pan clearance
kennyspec
Expert
Finally got my adapter plates drawn up in cad with some help from sportsterdanne. Lot of info shared between us through email. This swap looks to be extremely easy so far. Plastics will be the hardest part I think.
Pics of the plates. I don't know if I should use 1/2" thick alum for the plate or 1/4" mild steel. Or even 1/4" alum? Any thoughts?
Also for the upper "tubes" I was going to use 4130. But I am unsure on the diameter/thickness to use for everything. Is there a general guideline somewhere on how to select it for strength while keeping the weight to a minimum?
Also planning on turboing the sled with the turbo located where the fuel tank would be and use a custom aluminum tank. This would make a neat exhaust outlet location.
Pics of the plates. I don't know if I should use 1/2" thick alum for the plate or 1/4" mild steel. Or even 1/4" alum? Any thoughts?
Also for the upper "tubes" I was going to use 4130. But I am unsure on the diameter/thickness to use for everything. Is there a general guideline somewhere on how to select it for strength while keeping the weight to a minimum?
Also planning on turboing the sled with the turbo located where the fuel tank would be and use a custom aluminum tank. This would make a neat exhaust outlet location.
