Another PRO NYTRO!!

[kennyspec]

I was also going to make a custom oil tank and relocate it somewhere else on the sled to perhaps make room for a muffler for the turbo exhaust. I am just unsure on how the dry sump works. The bottom hose on the tank is the inlet to the oil pump. The middle hose the return to the tank and the top hose just a vent. Correct? Can the oil pump actually "suck" from the oil tank or does it need to be gravity fed to the pump? I am thinking it can suck from the tank because if you were carving on the right hand side of the sled the oil would have to go uphill through the hose to get to the oil pump. Anyone have some better info about how the dry sump system works?

 

[kennyspec]

No one has any ideas on the oil tank? So much room up front on the Nytro with the pro front end.

 

[bholmlate]

the dry sump system works just like your typical oil system, however the dry sump system has a scavenger pump in the bottom of the motor or pan that pushes the oil back into the tank keeping the oil plan dry, Hence the name. So there is pressure pushing the oil back into the tank as well as pulling it from the tank. In theory the motor will not run out of oil no matter what angle it is at until the oil inlet to the pump feeding the engine is open to the air. The pressure from one pump doesnt feed the other pump.

Now what is unclear to me is whether or not there are two seperate pumps on the nytro or if there is one pump unit with two sides. One side it would be grabbing oil from the tank and pushing it through the engine and on the other side of the same pump it would be grabbing oil in the bottom of the sump and pushing it back into the tank. since there is a large volume of oil moving through the tank you need a vent line at the top to releive the pressure. Hope that helps

 

[kennyspec]

Thanks for the explanation of the oil system!

Picked up some goodies at haydays

 

[Mtnviper]

The Nytro uses one oil pump, but it has two halves to it. A pressure half which draws oil from the bottom port of the tank and supplies oil pressure to the engine internal oil passages.
The second half is the savage half and draws oil and in some cases a certain amount of air from the bottom of the crankcase, then returns the oil/air to the oil tank middle port.
Because of the air that can be mixed with the returning oil, it is very important to build baffles in your tank which helps serperate the air and oil inside the tank.

HTH
Bill

 

[kennyspec]

Thanks again for more info guys!! Maybe the easier option would be to relocate the factory tank to the front of the bulkhead and just extend the pickup and return lines?

 

[Mtnviper]

Thanks again for more info guys!! Maybe the easier option would be to relocate the factory tank to the front of the bulkhead and just extend the pickup and return lines?

I would think that it should work well. The OEM tanks are made out of fairly thin material, so you'll want to mount it in a well protected area. Main thing is to protect it so that it doesn't take a hit and then crack on the bottom where the 90 degree fitting bolts on.

There is also an aftermarket tank aviliable as well. It is made out of thicker material and may also work for you.
I believe they are made by TS manufacturing and Rick at OFT was stocking them.

Bill

 

[kennyspec]

I have already welded up the crack at the bottom of my tank. I know they are fairly weak. In the pics the spindles are 5" forward of where the Nytro ones are. On the clutch side it looks like that's a bit too far forward for the plastics to fit well. Also some people think that the optimum distance to move the spindles forward is less than 5". Any thoughts if I should move the spindles a little less than 5" forward?

 

[kennyspec]

Some progress tonight.

teering shaft will be tight between the tb's should allow room for the plenum and intercooler next year




Sorry for the blurry pic, anyone see a better way to brace the upper half of the pro bulkhead to the Nytro engine plates?

 

[kennyspec]

Steering shaft will sit something like this......






Going to be a interesting turbo plenum setup in the future.....


I will be bracing to the steering post upper mount kinda like this. Steering shaft and all the other tubes are 1" .065 mild steel. Should I go bigger and thicker on the steering shaft?

 

[kennyspec]

Made up the upper bracket for the lower steering shaft tonight. Just waiting on my steering blocks from the dealer before I tack the bracket to the frame.

 

[kennyspec]

 

[kennyspec]

Not the best notches but they are close

Any thoughts on the triangulation to the upper steering block?

Will 1" .065 be strong enough for the steering shaft or should I go thicker?

 

[AKrider]

Could you just use the stock Polaris tank? It would drop the CG and allow for more clearance for the steering post bracing. The stock Nytro is too top heavy partly because of the vertically mounted tank. While it seems counter intuitive to me in terms of mass centralization to run the gas horizontally, way out back over the tunnel, it works out really, really well in the real world. Both Polaris and Doo use that design on their sleds and, most importantly, both Doo's and Poo's handle way better than any Nytro. Another plus is you will gain range with the bigger tank. Another plus is the Polaris tank/seat is better ergonomically than the stock Nytro.

 

[kennyspec]

Thanks for the input!! For this winter I will just run the stock tank and work on getting the front end finished. Over next summer I plan to install a new tunnel and have the top of it much lower. It is just so high for exhaust clearance. It will get a turbo setup and probably a side exit exhaust. While in this process I will make a long,low aluminum tank to get the mass nice and low.