ClutchMaster
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IMO, should be maybe about .001" clearance?
.0002” clearance would be optimal imo. With the wedge and zero clearance it could still be removed easily but would have full clamping power of the wedge. Mine had .0025” clearance so I used loctight and the wedge.

DMCTurbo
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Less even. Should be no Felt play if putting a new Bearing on and bearing should have to be put on perfectly straight or will bind. Then use the wedge.
If I'm not perfectly straight my bearing binds up. My measuremrnts likely aren't 100%.


Turboflash
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Yes, but who can machine .0002" with certainty? Need temperature-controlled room. Holding the shaft in your warm hand right where the journal is would increase the diameter more than .0002". So, if you did that, the bearing would not go on until either the shaft cooled or the bearing warmed up..0002” clearance would be optimal imo. With the wedge and zero clearance it could still be removed easily but would have full clamping power of the wedge. Mine had .0025” clearance so I used loctight and the wedge.
Tolerances like that need to be ground in temp-controlled environment. Some guys say they could turn (in a lathe) a diameter to that tolerance. Lots would say they can, but I can tell you from my many years in aerospace and medical machining, they can't (and guarantee it). It would not be repeatable.
We know there are many "green" loctites available to work in varying clearances from interference (press) fit all the way up to like .015". Match the wrong one to the clearance, and it may not work.
I think we've seen the BOP wedge will work on new shafts with new bearings although that may not be 100% correct. Obviously the less clearance between the bearing and the shaft the better. If you're going to green loctite it and use BOP wedge, as long as you're in the correct clearance for the one you're using, you should be good.
ClutchMaster
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Yea holding that tolerance would be hard in a production setting, but you asked what optimal would be, and in my mind as tight as possible without a press fit is the answer. It’s pretty easy to achieve that clearance on a lathe if you have the bearing that will be fitted to the shaft. Just cut it to within .0005” then use emery cloth until it just slips on, just make sure both parts are close in temperature. That’s what I would do. If I had a fit that tight I wouldn’t even bother with the loctight, just BOP wedge it and be done.


Turboflash
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Yeah, agree. If you have the bearing in your hand, and you're machining to match, you could get it very close. As you say, with that little of clearance, the BOP wedge will work easily.
ClutchMaster
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If you need more than 20lbs of torque on the wedge to lock the bearing, your probably over .001” clearance and should consider loctight 638, that’s what I have used.
ClutchMaster
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638 needs a heated cure, the colder the weaker The bond strength, so don’t use it in an unheated trailer when it’s 25 below. Probably wouldn’t work so well.
https://tdsna.henkel.com/americas/n...8836AB931A10882571870000D859/$File/638-EN.pdf
https://tdsna.henkel.com/americas/n...8836AB931A10882571870000D859/$File/638-EN.pdf


Turboflash
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Link to Henkel Design Application Guide attached. Pages 16-17 show them all, what gaps they fill, and all the info on strength, etc.
http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/RetainingDesignGuidepdf
http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/RetainingDesignGuidepdf

DMCTurbo
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Re-assembly day... I used some Dynatex shaft and bearing sealant No. 1522 on the shaft and bearing race. Installed the caliper housing on the shaft and realized I forgot to install the brake rotor... oops.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.
yamamarc
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Should be good for 4000milesRe-assembly day... I used some Dynatex shaft and bearing sealant No. 1522 on the shaft and bearing race. Installed the caliper housing on the shaft and realized I forgot to install the brake rotor... oops.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.View attachment 155574


DMCTurbo
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Should beShould be good for 4000miles![]()

Fast
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Would that be the same as locktight 680 bearing retainer?Re-assembly day... I used some Dynatex shaft and bearing sealant No. 1522 on the shaft and bearing race. Installed the caliper housing on the shaft and realized I forgot to install the brake rotor... oops.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.View attachment 155574

DMCTurbo
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Would that be the same as locktight 680 bearing retainer?
I assume so, I had it in the shop and it says "secures shaft mounted parts" on it so I figured I'd give it a try.

stevewithOCD
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Re-assembly day... I used some Dynatex shaft and bearing sealant No. 1522 on the shaft and bearing race. Installed the caliper housing on the shaft and realized I forgot to install the brake rotor... oops.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.View attachment 155574
"Had it in the Shop" may not be the technical data some are looking for, but since it's PLATINUM i guess they sold over a 1,000,000 of them.


Turboflash
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FYI - Travis at BOP drew up a puller template to get a bearing off track shaft for those guys who loctited them on.Re-assembly day... I used some Dynatex shaft and bearing sealant No. 1522 on the shaft and bearing race. Installed the caliper housing on the shaft and realized I forgot to install the brake rotor... oops.
5 minutes went by before I realized my mistake. Well do you think I could get the bearing off the shaft!! Not a chance lol. I decided to split the caliper to install the rotor and I'll deal with the bearing next season.
I don't think I'll have to worry about it spinning on the shaft this year especially with the wedge installed.View attachment 155574
https://ty4stroke.com/attachments/caliper-puller-template-r0-pdf.150712/
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