• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Anyone bent an A-arm? (warranty won't cover it)

i've bent quite a few thru every fault of my own, usually a collision with a fixed object. never even thought of trying to warranty it. maybe next time.
 

phaze5 said:
i just got done doing mine today have fun, long story short remove the bottom plate and get a bunch of wobble extensions, you can barely see it but you can get to them, on the right side i held the nut with a magnet to start it,
Click to expand...

Thx, i had to take off the entire front clip to do the starter so cant be too bad :o|
 
Still have the arms? I might be interested. I keep extras on hand because I've found that the a arms are a real weak spot on these sleds. I've broken three out of the frame on my 09 mtx in about 1200 miles. Two on the right and one on the left. Same thing with all three, lower rear bolt shears off, a arm bends at the weld. I certainly knew when I did all three but I expect the sled to take some level of impact without breaking, like all the other sleds I've ridden. I broke the first one going down a groomed trail at a slow speed and glanced off some root or rock on the edge. The impact was insignificant but I knew right away the sled was broke because the steering was way off.

Don't worry the bolts will break before the frame mounts..
when I bent mine, the bolt sheared off..
We tried to bend the arm back we had it glowing red and couldn't get the thing to budge.. oh well.
Click to expand...

phazed-coug you gave up too soon. We've straightened out 4 of them now. (3 on mine, one on my buddies) Glowing red isn't near enough. Glowing white is more like it. Even then I had to use a long pry and a lot of effort to move it. But it did straighten out.

Anyone know what level of hardness the bolts are that yamaha is using? I'm thinking about trying to find some hardened steel bolts, harder than what is in there, see if they hold up any better. I understand the next time I hit something the damage will be transferred to the frame but at least maybe I'll get a few rides in before that happens.
 
I replaced mine with an 8.8 (metric version of a grade 5) from the hardware store and that one snapped too. I now have a 3/8" grade 8 in there, haven't broken it yet. The factory bolts are 10mm and a 3/8" is pretty close at 9.75mm. The local hardware store doesnt stock 10.9 bolts which are "metric grade 8"
 
Thanks blueironranger. That is helpful. I have something close to a 3/8" grade 8 on the left side and that has been holding also. I didn't know the metric grade 8 or 9 was equivalent to a grade 5. So the yamaha bolts are soft. Good to know.
 
The Yamaha bolts are stretch bolts like on a head.I am not sure why they dont have a torque spec like a head bolt where you torque it twice or torque then go a certain degree.Anyway torque them and really should be replaced everytime.Was a ARP add I saw where they had a mic for measuring the amount of stretch and it was alot on some bolts.
 
cannondale27 said:
Upper a-arms can easily be bent back with a 2x4.Everytime I bent mine I knew just what hole or front landing I hit that caused it.Pretty much if your wrists feel it hard stop and look usually something gets bent.I never bent a lower arm.

Those nuts are very hard to get at decently.It can be done through the tierod boot hole but better off taking front end off so you can be sure the bolts and nut are clean for Loctite or Nordlocks.You want to torque those to spec.If over torqued I could easily see them snapping on a impact.
Click to expand...
Just how did you straighten them with a 2x4? (would have to be removed from the sled right?)
- Will repeated straightening weaken the arms?
- Why is it that it most often seems to be the upper left A-arm that bends?
- Mine is off by about a 1/4" on the left and about 1/8" on the right.
- How much would that affect handling?
thanks,
 
2x4 or a good oak handle like on a axe.Just put 2x4 or handle through upper arm and against the lower and pull.Moves easy.Yes wont be as strong but has worked for me.You can use a straightedge along outside to check when its right.I dont believe I ever bent a lower arm.That would take some real work to straighten.
 
So cannon are you sayin if I was to take apart my front end to replace some A arm bushings that it would be a good idea to replace those bolts with higher grade?
 
If you want weak go get the barkbuster front end! If you are not too worried about weight look into the zbroz front end!!! I have never been so happy :Rockon: :Rockon:
 
Weapon X said:
So cannon are you sayin if I was to take apart my front end to replace some A arm bushings that it would be a good idea to replace those bolts with higher grade?
Click to expand...

No just use a torque wrench so they dont get overstretched and weak.
 
I don't want to get off the subject of this thread but how is everyone bending these a-arms? I just bought a spare front end off and was wondering if I should keep it or sell it? any input is helpfull
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Fast Lane
A arm replacement
Replies
4
Views
861
mattison
M


Back
Top