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Apex/Attak Clutch Survey


trailnazi said:
Can you also give the recommended gearing for an 07 attak with ulmer stage II. Much Appreciated .

As Dirk mentions, leave your gearing where it is on the Attak.

Also, the Proline kit does work very will with the lower gearing in the Apex. Ive seen Attaks with Proline kits just absolutley launch out of the hole. I think with the little extra length on the Attak, the Proline kits work extremely well...BBY
 
I think I am probably one of the only guys here on TY with the Bender Racing clutch kit, but I love it! i have not gotten a chance to ride any other Apex's with other clutch kits (there aren't hardly any others here in Iowa City) but the Bender kit has made a HUGE differnce in the way my sled behaves. It has no harsh engagement, backshifting is awesome for the holeshots on the trails, and the midrange pull is awesome. It has the Heel Clicker primary with the orange spring, and a white/blue secondary spring. I am new to the whole aftermarket clutching thing, but this kit worked great right out of the box. Best $375 I've spent! Very easy install. Could have done it trailside.
I called Bender to be sure I had everything right before I took it out, and asked them what I should expect from it, and their tech help was great and performed exactly as promised.
I plan to buy another Apex for my wife this summer, and I will try an Ulmer kit on that one so I can get a good comparison.
Nate
 
machzed said:
In have no issues hooking up with other sleds ive raced against....not sure why you guys cant get your sleds to hookup with all those studs....Proline kit with the Low engagement spring works awesome..John will ask you which spring you want(ask for low engagement,Red dalton is same)....23 gear is a must with this kit IMO.

I run 1 inch track with 96 1.175s...and I can hook up same as the machs with 168 ive been running against...maybe you guys dont have your transfer setup right?....when I add my chisels I should be further outfront easily....

As i said...noone round here uses ulmers stuff,we run lakes and most all locals do our own clutching setups.....Id like to see one run but havent had ANY apexs even remotely close to my sled.... anyone who says stockers are fast,i dont get that..as Im always at least 5mph on gun faster then closest stocker and in a drag I can get outfront,then let off,then get back on it and pass him again...so stock apexs IMO are slugs....maybe I got a freak sled?..or maybe all those little things i have done are working for me...ya think?..lol....

after 25 yrs of this stuff,its easy to know what makes these things fast...Doos were so finicky(SDIs) it was tricky...but these apex motors and clutching are simple to make run like the 170hp machs...gotta love that.

dan
Where is your transfer set? I've got the gearing. Studs are recommended length. Maybe the lower engagement is the difference?
 
machzed said:
In have no issues hooking up with other sleds ive raced against....not sure why you guys cant get your sleds to hookup with all those studs....Proline kit with the Low engagement spring works awesome..John will ask you which spring you want(ask for low engagement,Red dalton is same)....23 gear is a must with this kit IMO.

I run 1 inch track with 96 1.175s...and I can hook up same as the machs with 168 ive been running against...maybe you guys dont have your transfer setup right?....when I add my chisels I should be further outfront easily....

As i said...noone round here uses ulmers stuff,we run lakes and most all locals do our own clutching setups.....Id like to see one run but havent had ANY apexs even remotely close to my sled.... anyone who says stockers are fast,i dont get that..as Im always at least 5mph on gun faster then closest stocker and in a drag I can get outfront,then let off,then get back on it and pass him again...so stock apexs IMO are slugs....maybe I got a freak sled?..or maybe all those little things i have done are working for me...ya think?..lol....

after 25 yrs of this stuff,its easy to know what makes these things fast...Doos were so finicky(SDIs) it was tricky...but these apex motors and clutching are simple to make run like the 170hp machs...gotta love that.

dan
Where is your transfer set? I've got the gearing. Studs are recommended length. Maybe the lower engagement is the difference?
 
23 gear is a must with PL kit..i said this earlier in my post...YES i agree totally....

i like alot of transfer IF im running drags on snow...i have it out NEAR max..and ofcourse have feet back at launch time standing to load the rear with my wieght for traction..I assume everyone drags like that though...

Im sure PL probably uses a slightly less agressive helix(shallower) angle,to keep revs higher......It seems to me the 54/44 Ive tested run lower rpms overall with everything else being equal.

dan
 
BlueByYou2000 said:
postman said:
I notice that some are dropping the Apex top gear to 23, I believe the RTX comes with a 22 and the Attak with a 23. There is also some going with a 40 bottom gear. What ratio are most running out there for gearing?? A guess I started a pretty HOT topic, very interesting and informative info to use with my new 08 Yammie. THANKS!!

The 07 RTX gearing is 38/22 or a 1.72 Gear Ratio, reverse models 38/23
The 06 RTX gearing is 38/24 or a 1.58 Gear Ratio
The Attaks are geared 38/23 or a 1.65 Gear Ratio

To me the ideal ratio is about 1.65 or so. You can accomplish that a couple different ways. Either run 38/23 gearing or 40/24 which would be 1.66. The 40/24 is more efficient as it reduces chain angle in the chaincase and drag.

With either combo, you can use the stock chain. The 23 gear will cost alot less than the 40...BBY

Correction, on the 07 rtx, it doesn't matter whether its reverse or not they both run 22 gears.
 
Stroke-it said:
BlueByYou2000 said:
postman said:
I notice that some are dropping the Apex top gear to 23, I believe the RTX comes with a 22 and the Attak with a 23. There is also some going with a 40 bottom gear. What ratio are most running out there for gearing?? A guess I started a pretty HOT topic, very interesting and informative info to use with my new 08 Yammie. THANKS!!

The 07 RTX gearing is 38/22 or a 1.72 Gear Ratio, reverse models 38/23
The 06 RTX gearing is 38/24 or a 1.58 Gear Ratio
The Attaks are geared 38/23 or a 1.65 Gear Ratio

To me the ideal ratio is about 1.65 or so. You can accomplish that a couple different ways. Either run 38/23 gearing or 40/24 which would be 1.66. The 40/24 is more efficient as it reduces chain angle in the chaincase and drag.

With either combo, you can use the stock chain. The 23 gear will cost alot less than the 40...BBY

Correction, on the 07 rtx, it doesn't matter whether its reverse or not they both run 22 gears.

Actually I posted that just opposite. Should have read without reverse, 07 RTXs come with 23 gears. Several on the site have varified that...BBY
 
06RTXRider,

If you want that thing to run in a straight line, you need to have at least 144 studs, with a minimum of every other lug on the outside studded. I went from 144 to 192, and studded every lug on the outside and the difference was amazing. If you don't hook these things up down low, you just spin, once you get them hooked up though, hang on.

Also, crank the transfer up, at least 1/4 past stock or more, you are giving up alot there. You also said you were running close to 11000, as it seems alot of people are, but if you have the traction, they seem to run great all the way down to 10,200-10,400. Throw some more wieght at the clutch once you move some studs around and get the transfer dialed, i think you will be suprised!
 
In my previous posts i explained i had 144 studs. The outside lugs seem to provide the most traction when studded but i'm worried about tearing them out in marginal conditions. I guess you could argue that more studs=more traction and less chance of tearing them out. I just didn't want to add the weight or compromise the track anymore than i had to. I could add another 48 to the outside and see what happens.

When you talk about transfer what do you mean by stock? and i assume you mean 1/2 way between the middle setting and maximum transfer.

As for weight in the clutches i intend to add a little and see what happens. I would like to get it down to around 10,600 and let it go to 10,800 at full shift. As long as it holds the clutches open it will be quicker top end than at 10,400.
 
I do agree about the studs in the outside belts getting abused, i just look at it as the price you have to pay to go fast! I would start by moving some of the studs from the middle to the outside, that may be enough.

I call stock dead in the middle on the transfer setting, with a 1/2" of adjustment each way. So try running at least 1/4" or more towards the max. If you are doing a big trail ride, you may have to adjust it back down, depending on how fast you take the corners.

Don't let the all the different "theories" on top speed confuse you, in a perfect world, more RPM equals more speed. But a plowed road or RR bed is far from a perfect world. Sometimes the extra weight can help some with belt slippage, and also keep the belt riding higher in the primary for a longer time, both of which will help equal more speed. I put up my fastest number yet (128 DM) after adding a bunch of weight and 48 more studs.
 
I agree with the weight and slippage. Traction is everything with these machines.

I have not yet experimented with the transfer rod, i keep it one notch towards minimum transfer for the trails and wish it was easier to adjust. To bad there was an adjuster on the side of the tunnel for that. lol
 


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