ExTrEeMF7
Expert
ok turk this is what i ran
38-20 gear
40-10 heel clickers with 3 washers on heel and hex bolt and 3 washers on tip with long bolt getting 10000 rpm right on
also ran a 47' at 3-2 with green spring
as soon as i add more weight it drops to 9000
all i did was add a small bolt in the center hole
thnx
marc
38-20 gear
40-10 heel clickers with 3 washers on heel and hex bolt and 3 washers on tip with long bolt getting 10000 rpm right on
also ran a 47' at 3-2 with green spring
as soon as i add more weight it drops to 9000
all i did was add a small bolt in the center hole
thnx
marc
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
oh and my sled now has 30 kms on it
from this weekend
was brand new last friday
from this weekend
was brand new last friday
Here is one particular set up i ran that worked great with hc,s. 4.5 grams heel, 2.4 gram heavy hitter screw in 1st hole with a .8 gram hh screw in tip. I use a Dalton 54/42 helix with silver secondary at 70 degree wrap. Make sure the heel in the hc weight is not contacting the moveable shim at full shift. I removed about 20 thou of material from that area so i can get 100% shift. I also used 14.5mm rollers for a little better belt squeeze too. With this set up i came out of the hole at 9700 rpm & crept to 10,200 at ful speed. This was with stock gearing so your gonna have to do some tuning but at least it will get you close. An advantedge 48/40 helix will shift very close to a 54/42 dalton.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
ok thnx turk i will look for all that stuff and give it a try what the hell ![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
live and learn right :lol:
live and learn right :lol:
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using heel clickers for drag racing is totally different than using them for trail. to get MPH out of your sled you're going to want to use the tip and the heel only, load the crap out of both and then work with your secondary. when i say load the crap out of them i mean it, 6 grams in heel and 7 grams in tip and then start working with the secondary.
Al...i got very similar results by adding less weight to the heel & adding some to the middle. I ran very similar to your set up too. I got way cooler clutch temps running weight in the 1st hole but your way is a lot quicker way of dialing it in. I had to mess around a lot more to get everything right.
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turk, exactly, that's the easiest way to get good results quickly, especially when you don't have much time to test! it looks like marc can get his 60' alot better yet, he just needs to adjust his secondary to the conditions of the track. don't be so aggressive on the clutching on the starting line. he should really be running in the 6.5-6.7 area at 100-103. but i'm also talking 15.6 rollers when loading only the tip and the heel.
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Hey Turk - I have the belt riding about 1/4 inch from the top now, so It is fully shifting out now. I do the marker thing before each day of racing. Kinda tells me how the belt is holding up also.
Hey Marc - I will get a pic of the track as soon as I see him.
Hey Allen - I will try some secondary adjustments as soon as I can. I was going to go to Great Lakes Dragway, but it is supposed to be mid 90's tomorrow. I am watching the weather, to see when I can get some good temps.
Hey Marc - I will get a pic of the track as soon as I see him.
Hey Allen - I will try some secondary adjustments as soon as I can. I was going to go to Great Lakes Dragway, but it is supposed to be mid 90's tomorrow. I am watching the weather, to see when I can get some good temps.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
are you 1/4" from the top or on top ?
i was 1/8" down should i try 1/4"
i was 1/8" down should i try 1/4"
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Hey Marc - I am 1/4 from the top. I was higher, like 1/8 from the top, but ran out of gear after 1000 ft. That was with the 22/38 gearset. I found that on the asphalt, if you have the belt ride 1/8 inch above the secondary, with a loose setting, gave me the best 60 ft. I found 50% gave me the best bite in poor conditions. Hope this helps.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
ok we will try that
i was lower to get me to shift faster and it help i got faster et then saturday
now i just got to fine tune the black bastard to get full speed out
i was lower to get me to shift faster and it help i got faster et then saturday
now i just got to fine tune the black bastard to get full speed out
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
did some testing tonight here on my street
we have long street
we mark off 660 and man i found the ticket i think
we used 8bu-00 with 4.5 mid and 4.5 tip
and white max spring and 15mm rollers
and also ran 21-38
and ran a 45' helix and green secondary at 3-1 with belt up 1/4 from top of secondary :lol:
now get ready for this
:lol:
our 60 foot was 1.532
our et was 6.65
and at 108 mph
:shock:
now i got the winning combo
man thnx don mrviper700
good old yamaha weights always worked good for me
terry maby you should try it
on yours with maby 23-38
we have long street
we mark off 660 and man i found the ticket i think
we used 8bu-00 with 4.5 mid and 4.5 tip
and white max spring and 15mm rollers
and also ran 21-38
and ran a 45' helix and green secondary at 3-1 with belt up 1/4 from top of secondary :lol:
now get ready for this
:lol:
our 60 foot was 1.532
our et was 6.65
and at 108 mph
now i got the winning combo
man thnx don mrviper700
good old yamaha weights always worked good for me
terry maby you should try it
on yours with maby 23-38
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Mtnviper
Vendor
Wow good thread! I'm trying to get a RX-1 mountain dailed in for the grass drags.
Here's where I'm at now
40-10 clickers 5.5 grams in the heel, center empty, 3.3 grams in the tip, white spring, 15 mm rollers.
51-43 helix (Yamaha) silver sec spring at 70*
Gearing is 21-40 with 8 tooth drivers
The sled is leaving at 10,200-10,300 after about 30-40 feet rpms drop to 10,000 then slowly climb to 10,200 on the big end. I trying to get it to leave at 10,000 then shift out to 10,200.
It is getting full shift out at 500', (checking it by the magic marker method.)
I havn't had a lot of test time in yet, so far I've tried a stiffer sec spring (the stock one) thinking it was a belt slippage problem. All that did was cause the clutches to run hotter and hold back the shift. So I went back to the silver sec spring, and started adding weight to the heel. Heel weight is helping, it was leaving at 10,500 with 4.3 grams in the heel.
I ran out of day light testing tonight, so I didn't a chance to play with the sec tension or weights more.
Also I'm wondering if it isn't a traction problem, that 151" 2" paddle ain't the best grass drag track! But hopefully I can compensate for it with clucthing.
Here's where I'm at now
40-10 clickers 5.5 grams in the heel, center empty, 3.3 grams in the tip, white spring, 15 mm rollers.
51-43 helix (Yamaha) silver sec spring at 70*
Gearing is 21-40 with 8 tooth drivers
The sled is leaving at 10,200-10,300 after about 30-40 feet rpms drop to 10,000 then slowly climb to 10,200 on the big end. I trying to get it to leave at 10,000 then shift out to 10,200.
It is getting full shift out at 500', (checking it by the magic marker method.)
I havn't had a lot of test time in yet, so far I've tried a stiffer sec spring (the stock one) thinking it was a belt slippage problem. All that did was cause the clutches to run hotter and hold back the shift. So I went back to the silver sec spring, and started adding weight to the heel. Heel weight is helping, it was leaving at 10,500 with 4.3 grams in the heel.
I ran out of day light testing tonight, so I didn't a chance to play with the sec tension or weights more.
Also I'm wondering if it isn't a traction problem, that 151" 2" paddle ain't the best grass drag track! But hopefully I can compensate for it with clucthing.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
its too bad you cant get a old 151 track and shave it down to .5"
and add about 344 studs
then you would be good
we run 244 studs on a 121" so i figure around 344 woudl be good for a 151"
the best set up for grass would be for you to talk to srxspec
i had my best when i raced grass on yamaha was with 8bu-oo in my srx and sx
and also in my viper i ran 8ab
they seam to like that profile of weight
as i found tonight on asphalt
maby try posting a new trend for grass like nos-pro did here so we dont get confused
and we might be on to somthing here
![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
ASLO TRY AND FIND YOUR SELF A 45 OR 47
YOU DONT NEED BACK SHIFT ON DRAGS
GET AWAY FROM THAT 51-43
and add about 344 studs
then you would be good
we run 244 studs on a 121" so i figure around 344 woudl be good for a 151"
the best set up for grass would be for you to talk to srxspec
i had my best when i raced grass on yamaha was with 8bu-oo in my srx and sx
and also in my viper i ran 8ab
they seam to like that profile of weight
as i found tonight on asphalt
maby try posting a new trend for grass like nos-pro did here so we dont get confused
and we might be on to somthing here
ASLO TRY AND FIND YOUR SELF A 45 OR 47
YOU DONT NEED BACK SHIFT ON DRAGS
GET AWAY FROM THAT 51-43
![](/styles/vip.gif)
Mtnviper
Vendor
Srxxtreem, I do have a 45 and a 47, but I havn't tried em yet. I also have a green sec spring that I tried with the 51-43, but had problems sucking the belt. Green spring may work better with the straight cut helix's though?
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