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Asphalt Results 2003 (RX1)

Hey Angleboy, no I haven't. Mikey and I were chatting last night, and he thought the same thing. I think I have to get it done.
 

Nos-Pro, what aobut getting the primary sheeves off a Yamaha VK540? Snow Fever had posted an article on Totallyamaha about them being 12.5 degrees vs. the stock 14 degrees. Would this accomplish the same task? If so, ideally it would be nice to find someone who has one for you to try and see the results from it and you wouldn't haven't to machine your existing sheeves.
 
Hey RobX-1 - Good point, I think I saw that post also. I wouldn't mind trying that angle of sheave. Just got to find one.
 
Terry, If you do any machining, make sure you go with bigger rollers. New Style HH's (like yours) are shorter than the first generation and when you machine your primary, you need to install bigger rollers or the weights could go past the rollers, Ka Ka Ka BOOM.. Not good...BBY
 
oil temp

for engine oil temp you could install a oil cooler like is done on many motercycles there should be kits for the R1 that would include a plate that goes in between oil fillter and block with in and out fitting,s on it . or just go find an old ford cop car take the oil cooler off and run it in the return line that run,s in to the top of the oil tank. or even a tranny cooler for a car or truck would work. you would just have to find a place to mount it. i ran lockheart oil coolers with a themost controler on my bikes for years . john
 
Well after trying several different clucthing set-ups with out being able to get rid of the initial over-rev. I started dealing with the traction issue. We grass drag off starting ramps ( old snowmobile tracks tied together and staked to the ground). That 151" 2" paddle track spins pretty bad on the ramps/grass, so I let the limiter straps out. Initial over-rev is gone, but the track rachets. I set the transfer rods to min spec, track still rachets. Tightened the track tension even more, ( you could almost play a tune on that sucker)! Track still rachets, adjusted the transfer rods down past the painted red mark. Track rachet is gone, but so is the weight transfer, and looses traction easier. Some of the initial over-rev is back, man I hate those 8 tooth drivers!

In my opinion the RX-1 motor has way to much gunt for 8 tooth drivers. Next step would be to go with extrovert (spelling) drivers and have the track windows cut out. Then I should be able to dial some transfer back into it for traction, and loosen the track a little to free it up. I'm not sure if I will have time to do it though, grass drag season is winding down fast.
 
Pull your straps back up and use a steeper starting angle on your helix to stop the over rev.

extrovert drivers rob track HP. I've seen it with my own Eyes from dyno runs on the same sled with and without the drivers.
 
Hey BBY - good info, thanks. I had a friend of mine had one blow up-NOT GOOD!!!

Hey black john - Thanks for the info, I never thought of checking the spot where it mounts to, Thanks! I think I can get something done for next year, cause it is getting cooler now.

Hey Mtnviper - I hear ya man! I had to have the track sooo tight, for it not to ratchet, but when I lowered the whole suspension, I was able to loosen it up a bit. No ratcheting, and better take off. I agree with the stock drivers, they are junk, especially mine, (THEY ARE MELTING AWAY).
 
Stock Skid problem

The problem with the stock skid and track racheting is the skid location. I have an expert X in mine and I can run the track 3 to 4 inche loose and I've never had a rachet problem.
 
NOS-PRO, wow you must be generating some serious heat on the asphalt!

JTSSRX, thanks for the info! I wonder if anybody has tried played around with H arm (W arm) angles and skid location to try and help with this problem. It's a big issue with the mountain guys who are trying to get more transfer, to lift the front end in deep snow.
 
mod

we have been running fourth wheel kits all winter. and not one of us has had any problem with racthting. i spun lots un till i took the belt side clerance from 0.60 dowen to 0.20 that realy work well. the first time i draged any one with belt side clerance reduced. well it was rather embarising it tried to turn over back wards not once but twice. do you know how hard it is to balence an rx 1 on the rear bumper while holding on to the handle bars wow :oops: o yes the fourth wheel alowe,s the power to be spread over the drivers equaly. so that thay all work. the one with no empty spot on the track is not allowed to rize or bunch up over the drivers and no loss in speed and i dont run my track tite i like to see a little air gap between the sliders and track when is on the stand. john
 
Hey Mtnviper - Lately, I have been really smoking the track to get hitched up on the starting line. But I have heard from a lot of people that they do not last long, that's why people are switching to aluminum. Better wear and truer running.
 
machining the clutch

guys you don't necessarily have to machine the primary clutch to get it into overdrive. you can put in different split collars on the stationary sheave which will allow the clutch to shift out further and also by closing up the gap between the belt and the sheave it usually will 60' better because the clutch doesn't have the extra room to "slam" into the belt and spin the track, instead it will grab it with good force yet, but not with the "violent slam" that happens when you have a wider belt clearance.
 
Srxspec, would you happen to have any part numbers or a name of a place where one could pick up the smaller split collars? Is this something you can pick up from Yamaha?
 
Hey Srxspec - Boy do we have a lot to talk about, when I see you. I just was chatting with matt, and I told him, I had my username put on my TY shirt, so you can find me later. But I will be around.

I never saw those split collars before, You use those on the grass?
 
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