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Asphalt Results 2003 (RX1)

Split collars

The split collars are available from your dealer or you can buy them already machined from Pat Hauck. He sells them i different thicknesses. The real advantage is at engagement as Srxspec said. It makes for smoother engagement and less belt spin and burn. As far as the overdrive thing, take your primary spring out and let the sheaves close if they touch, mine do, then changing the split collars will have no impact because once the sheaves comme together the belt won't ride any higher. That is why they machine the fixed sheave to allow the tops to come closer together when the centers touch at full shift. The Hauck OD sheave has more material (thicker at the top), which enables the belt to ride all the way up. You can save money by buying the collars from your dealer and use a belt sander to remove material from them to whatever thickness you desire. It helps to have a digital caliper to get both of them the same.
Here is a link to Hauck's catalog:
http://www.hauckpowersportsinc.com/Page19.htm
 

Split Collars

remeber when you change your split collars you have to check your offset. It will change due to the change in you neutral position. It also changes you center to center which can't be changed on the RX-1.
 
Terry, I showed you a set of machined split collars when you stoped in that night. They are a 2 piece part that wedges into the stationary sheave. As allen points out, they will allow your moveable sheave to get closer to the stationary sheave which in turn lets your belt go higher in the primary...BBY
 
Terry, we change the split collars quite often on the grass. We actually have 2 primary clutches for our sleds, one with wide belt clearance for good hooking tracks and one with only about .010" belt clearance for lose junky tracks. It will change your gear ratio some and if you guys want I can load some graphs that's right from the Hot Tach Pro that shows the difference between stock split collars and then split collars that had way less belt clearance.
 
It does change the position at neutral, but the sheaves do touch at full shift regardless of which collars you use. So thay are no closer together at full shift unless you remove material from the hub of the sheave or add material to the top of the sheave. They do come together sooner because the fixed sheave starts closer, but the belt can't ride any higher with just this change.
 
suspension

Terry my buddy Bruce told me he met you last weekend he said you bought an aftermrket suspension what did you get?Are you going to get some prostock shocks too?
 
Hey Ryan - I bought a srx suspension at hay days, but I did buy Ken's old Wahl suspension for next year. I am thinking of setting up 2 sleds next year. This was so I could get your stuff back at the end of the year. I really appreciate you letting me use these.
 
More SRX Asphalt Results

Well kids just got back from a night running the SRX on the tar...
Here are some numbers:
60ft=1.513 1/8=6.504@102.93 1/4=10.440@120.95
60ft=1.483 1/8=6.456@102.02 1/4=10.396@121.76
60ft=1.487 1/8=6.451@102.44 1/4=10.344@122.43

The temps went from 78deg w/72%humidity first run to 66deg w/95%humidity last run.

I've had better 60ft times in the past. I also did some minor clutching changes on the second run. Need to still work on the rear skid though. There is at least another 1/2-tenth in that thing. I just have to find it...

I also just put some EGT's and I can jet down quite a bit. Was only in the mid 800deg temp range and I was told I can get up to 1200deg/1300deg range. I WILL be jetting down.

My goal before the end of October is to get the sled running in the 10.2's. I think it can be done... :D

--Buster696--
 
Pic's of Wednesday night racing...

Here are a couple of Pic's of last nights run....
He just got his new cammera...
 
Hey Buster - That's great news! Jet that baby down, and you should see 10.2's with jetting alone. Remember, that race gas burns cooler, and faster, so you should only run 1000 degrees with race fuel. if your running premium, then your safe at 1200. Is that a proline suspension?
 
NOS,
I'm running 50/50 (Sunoco 110/ Sunoco 94). I hope to run around 1000 to 1100 deg and be safe. I agree with better 60ft times (witch I've had before), I should get there... I had to add the ski spacers because my rear wheel was rubbing on my trailing arm. So, spacers and a set of new rear wheels later, I've got it running safer.

The rear skid is a Wahl Bros. When I mounted it I could not put it exactly where they want you to, but I did the best I could. So I'm trying to get it to work the best I can. I want to run that skid on the ice so I think I have a happy-medium for both. Going to make some more adjustments to it and go from there. If I can get in the low 1.4's I should make it into the 10.20's.

Are you making any adjustments in your skid, or has it been all clutching?
I know you talk to BBY2000/Matt and he has mentioned your name to me. Maybe I can help you out...

--Buster696--
 
Hey Buster - I have the wheels coming off the pavement about an inch right now, so I kinda left it alone. Matt said I was pretty much there for shock settings. I am thinking about going to all double shielded bearings, instead of the sealed bearings. They spin like real nice, and don't create heat. I have been working on clutching mostly, with some other performances on the side. I bought a Wahl suspwension from a guy, and will put that in for next year. What was off on your mounting? Hole location? I also want to run bigger aluminum drivers next year. I just bought (2) sets of Holtzman carb springs, to try out, cause it just drops off after the 1/8 mile. I think 1050 would be ideal for you for temp, you don't want to go more than that.

9/13/03 - no running today, rain non-stop!
I wonder if they got some grass drags going in Wausau?
 
Low end lean bog?

Guys, I need some help. The RX mountian has a pretty bad lean bog. Its killing my reaction time. I have to warm it up (A LOT) on the warm-up stand to reduce it.
I havn't played with the carbs yet, I have never worked on this type of carb before. Do they have adjustable needles like the flat slides. Also do they use a pilot jet? Or is a diaphram spring change required?
 
Springs

NOS-PRO, I am very curious about the performance of those springs in the carbs. I talked with Holtzman last week and they talked about possibley 3-5 HP with improved acceleration. I figured for $40.00 what the heck. You will get to use them long before I will. Please let us know. Thanks.
 
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