NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
Has anyone done any asphalt racing using the stock suspension ?
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2003
- Messages
- 6,539
- Location
- Hessel, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
I've used the stock suspension in all my Pro Cross chassis. The Vipers since 2014 and the SW since 2017.
Front shock is stock, jam nuts all the way loose to the point where no more threads are showing. Front torque arm about 3/4 to 1 inch from hitting the rubber pad. Rear shock taken out and replaced with adjustable strut (you can see it in the flamed Viper pic, adjustable both ends so you don't have to take the bolts out...just loosen the jam nut and turn to adjust)
141 suspension needs another hole drilled into the tunnel, 2 1/4 inches ahead of the stock upper bolt hole (towards the front of the sled)
137 suspension uses same holes, same front torque arm setup as mine, but the rear having the side loading springs will need the rear torque arm strapped down.
Could I go with an aftermarket suspension? Sure I could.... Could I spend a ton of money and make this a lightweight Pro Mod? Sure, but ever since I started racing sleds on asphalt, I wanted to keep the sled mostly stock and see what I can get out of it with little mods that the average user puts on their sled. Now....to make the stock suspension work like the aftermarket suspensions....HELL YEAH!!!
The rear upper wheels will be dangling in mid air due to the narrow asphalt track. A carrier axle with a set of small wheels needs to be installed and the best and easiest way is drilling out the rivet on each side just before the brace towards the rear of the footwell. (see last pic)
Front shock is stock, jam nuts all the way loose to the point where no more threads are showing. Front torque arm about 3/4 to 1 inch from hitting the rubber pad. Rear shock taken out and replaced with adjustable strut (you can see it in the flamed Viper pic, adjustable both ends so you don't have to take the bolts out...just loosen the jam nut and turn to adjust)
141 suspension needs another hole drilled into the tunnel, 2 1/4 inches ahead of the stock upper bolt hole (towards the front of the sled)
137 suspension uses same holes, same front torque arm setup as mine, but the rear having the side loading springs will need the rear torque arm strapped down.
Could I go with an aftermarket suspension? Sure I could.... Could I spend a ton of money and make this a lightweight Pro Mod? Sure, but ever since I started racing sleds on asphalt, I wanted to keep the sled mostly stock and see what I can get out of it with little mods that the average user puts on their sled. Now....to make the stock suspension work like the aftermarket suspensions....HELL YEAH!!!
The rear upper wheels will be dangling in mid air due to the narrow asphalt track. A carrier axle with a set of small wheels needs to be installed and the best and easiest way is drilling out the rivet on each side just before the brace towards the rear of the footwell. (see last pic)
