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Attak and deep snow

Well as you can probably tell from my previous posts' in this thread I believe the Attak has gotten a bad rap of not being a capable off trail ride. It could use some better skis but as for the trenching part judicial use of the fuel flapper is essential. I am not one of those guys that hammers any sled WOT on take off on or off trail unless I'm drag racing in a field or out on a lake and sometimes not even then depending on what the consistency of the snow is. I believe the Attak is quite capable off trail. Gene
 

Like stated above, its all about controlling how much throttle you give it. The attak can make a huge roost and a huge hole if you give it muh throttle at all, just because of how much power is on tap and how soon you can get to that power. Throttle response is about as good as it gets in the snowmobile world with the Apex/Attak.

Boondocking rocks with the Attak as well, just punch it and start your turn, and the sled will do the rest, its so smooth.

Stock skis do suck for flotation off trail, but make for really easy boondocking.
 
I just bumped my Attak to 144 this year with a 1-1/2 Crossover under it. Should take the boondocking to a different level. Like stated before it takes some riding experiance to get these machines to be effective off trail. I have logged a few thousand miles in over 4 ft of snow, and they are effective on and off trail. Suck up the limiter strap a little, less transfer, wide skis, and ditch the Ripsaw. It makes a better trailer mat than a off trail track!


Drivers are a must!

680 :Rockon:
 
Rode renegades; switchbacks; crossfires & owned 2 attaks. The attak with the exact same track as brand x,s & ridden by an experienced mountain rider ain,t even close in deep snow performance to the other 3!
 
ult680

When you did your 144 did you extend the tunnel also, or was there enough room without it. Also what drivers are you running. I am going to put a 136 X 2 on my attak, with 8 tooth extros (think I will have enough room with a notched track) but was wondering if I should look at the 144 extensions instead.

Thanks

kirk
 
I put the hartman tunnel kit on it, hwever I think there is enough room to run with out. I am running 9 tooth whals with ALL the tunnel protectors removed. Including the front cooler protectors. Enough clearance here to run bigger track with same drivers. To be honest with you for the money the MPI tunnel kit that drops and rolls the stock chain case is the way to run for the money. You can get any length you want for under $1000.00 and it comes with U shape rear cooler!
 
In my opinion, the approach angle needs to be changed. I feel that is part of the problem this sled as with boon docking. I actually ripped the mono out, sold it. (I dislike the mono) I put my 136" Expert X under it with a 144" 1.5" Crossover track and 9t Wahl Extroverts with inside drive lugs as well. My approach angle is sickly shallow, due to the 4" set back I did when installing the skid. I also removed the tunnel protectors as it was to tight for comfort of a fit with this track.

I'd also go on to say that if you stretch that sled out to a 144, you WILL need a tunnel extension. If you don't, you will slam into into the stock extension when tail landing. I went with the HARTMAN kit because I like the way his kit 'kicks up' in the rear. If your going to stretch out that sled, just do it right, don't cut any corners. It'll be a different animal off trail. Make sure you install a rear cooler also. I went with a .5" thick U style cooler that I mounted right to the extension itself. I can get the cooling effect both under and from above the extension this way.

-1CS
 
I am FINALLY going to get to my 144 extension project next week - we got 10 inches of snow yesterday! I'm going to a 2 inch challenger track.
I bought the Hartman kit: 9t Wahl Drivers, etc, and plan on removing all the protectors, but I haven't thought about adding a cooler to the rear - why do you need to do that? Should I add that to the project?

I'm going to add Woody Duallys and shorten the limiter strap one notch too. I'm 50-75% off trail rider. The darting on the stock Apex Mtn skis I added to my Attak is outrageous - almost un-rideable on the trail.

:rocks:
 
Tal said:
I am FINALLY going to get to my 144 extension project next week - we got 10 inches of snow yesterday! I'm going to a 2 inch challenger track.
I bought the Hartman kit: 9t Wahl Drivers, etc, and plan on removing all the protectors, but I haven't thought about adding a cooler to the rear - why do you need to do that? Should I add that to the project?

I'm going to add Woody Duallys and shorten the limiter strap one notch too. I'm 50-75% off trail rider. The darting on the stock Apex Mtn skis I added to my Attak is outrageous - almost un-rideable on the trail.

:rocks:

I added the rear cooler for two big reasons.

1) I also added a stage 1 Supercharger. More power, means more heat.

2) IMO, When off trail, you are working the motor to get the machine around, however you will not be at speed to keep snow kicking up enough to keep the coolant cool enough to keep the engine temps down around 170ish degrees. ( Which is where I like it at, actually 160) The sled is also usually not moving fast enough to have enough air movement through the engine area. With a rear cooler installed, you are adding another cooling point. This makes 4 points of cooling.

-Vince

BTW: You better double check those drivers. There may not be enough clearance for the front exchanger. I'm thinking for a track that tall, you should have got 8 tooth drivers. You need enough room to move snow through there.
 
Vince what huffer did you go with? How do you like it, and what kind of power are you seeing out of it? How do you like the Expert X? I have thought about purchasing one of these as I can say most things I have heard about them are good. I had the M-10 in one of my previous sleds and really liked the ride but the weight transfer absolutely sucked. I have heard the X transfers real well. Gene
 
1CS - Thanks for the info. Hartman sent me the 9tooth drivers with the 144 2 inch kit - I bought the track and all from him. He told me that's what I had to have and I assumed he knew what he was talking about and personally didn't know enough about it to ask the question.

I guess I'll find out!

Another question - I'm going to take my time and do it right using the track change FAQ on here, but about how long do you think it will take to get this done? I'm planning about 2-3 hours a day for a week right now.
I'm going to have to take the drivers to a mechanic to have them pressed on, besides that the rest of it is all mine to do
 
Tal said:
1CS - Thanks for the info. Hartman sent me the 9tooth drivers with the 144 2 inch kit - I bought the track and all from him. He told me that's what I had to have and I assumed he knew what he was talking about and personally didn't know enough about it to ask the question.

I guess I'll find out!

Another question - I'm going to take my time and do it right using the track change FAQ on here, but about how long do you think it will take to get this done? I'm planning about 2-3 hours a day for a week right now.
I'm going to have to take the drivers to a mechanic to have them pressed on, besides that the rest of it is all mine to do

He's pretty good and knows his stuff. I could be wrong about the drivers. I know that with my 1.5 track and 9t drivers, I don't have much room for what I think is enough for snow to exit. Saddle time will tell. I'm just concerned about the extra snow freezing in the tunnel over night, is all. Which this may not even be an issue. This is my first 144 1.5 conversion, so I'm in a learning curve here.

The conversion doesn't take long at all. Depends on your mechanical abilities, I suppose. The Hartman kit goes on pretty easy. The time to put the chaincase back together. Check out my write up in my project thread below for removing the tunnel protectors. It may help ya out.

Have fun.
Shoot me a PM if you have any other questions. I'll be glad to help ya out.
;)!
 
Hartman gives a diagram to make a homemade cooler out of 1/2 copper tubing. I have used this on a few sleds and it works great and hold up very well.
 


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