TGYamaha
Newbie
I am reaching the 750 mile mark on my 07 Attak. I find this sled so awesome in so many ways. The engine just makes me smile.
My satisfaction would go up significantly if I can get some good advice for handling/setup.
1) I am darting. Still using factory carbides. I ordered Bergstrom Triple Points in mid December. Scott is backed up on orders so I hope to receive these along with Ski Savers and Shims. Hopefully this will take care of darting issues.
2) I am getting inside ski lift at even slow speeds on corners. Very unstable feeling. I traded with my bros SXR700 for 10 miles or so...his machine hugged the corners much better than my Attak.
I am not technical in nature...I took my Attak to a dealer during a trip last year in Munising. He made some adjustments that helped absolutely 0. He was glad to take my $50 though.
Any help/thoughts on these 2 issues would be appreciated.
TGYamaha.
My satisfaction would go up significantly if I can get some good advice for handling/setup.
1) I am darting. Still using factory carbides. I ordered Bergstrom Triple Points in mid December. Scott is backed up on orders so I hope to receive these along with Ski Savers and Shims. Hopefully this will take care of darting issues.
2) I am getting inside ski lift at even slow speeds on corners. Very unstable feeling. I traded with my bros SXR700 for 10 miles or so...his machine hugged the corners much better than my Attak.
I am not technical in nature...I took my Attak to a dealer during a trip last year in Munising. He made some adjustments that helped absolutely 0. He was glad to take my $50 though.
Any help/thoughts on these 2 issues would be appreciated.
TGYamaha.
vx700xtc
Expert
Set the mono spring to the softest setting you can and not bottom out excesively.
Jack front of sled up until skis are hanging in the air, then loosen ski shock springs until the spring is loose, then tighten just enough to keep the spring from jingling.
Limiter strap in longest, or next to longest position.
Set control rod to transfer as much as you are comfortable with, then ride and set rod to your liking.
IT WILL NEVER CORNER LIKE THE Sx. Center of gravity is too high.
Jack front of sled up until skis are hanging in the air, then loosen ski shock springs until the spring is loose, then tighten just enough to keep the spring from jingling.
Limiter strap in longest, or next to longest position.
Set control rod to transfer as much as you are comfortable with, then ride and set rod to your liking.
IT WILL NEVER CORNER LIKE THE Sx. Center of gravity is too high.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
with darting shimming definately helps
2-3 good articles here http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... /SKIS.html
2-3 good articles here http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... /SKIS.html
renegademan17
Extreme
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2007
- Messages
- 59
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Duluth, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak, 97 700SX, 76 Ski Doo Olympic
Sounds like you want a trail sled, so what 700xtc said is fine but for my taste no good, you sacrafice too much on the other end, I too have the same issues, but want the front end to bite hard, shims worked to a point for me, but trying new skies, you soften it up soo much you better weigh 170 wet, or you will bottom out if you hit some of the bigger stuff.
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
The Bergstrom Triple Points will help the darting but you must also shim the skis.
For suspension setup, try these changes. It helped my Attak by keeping the skis more on the ground in the corners.
1) You need to take your Control Rod Wrench that Yamaha has supplied you and loosen off the Inner Nut. Now measure just whereabouts you are on the scale and check your adjuster length. You will see that there is a Min and a Max scale on the wrench. You adjust the Outter Nut and go about half way from the Standard mark in the middle to Max mark, that will be two marks on your wrench scale. That will make a big difference, now you can fine tune it from there whether you need more or less transfer.
2) Now go up front and loosen your front springs on your shocks right off. Then tighten them down finger tight and then go ONE FULL TURN, this will soften up the front end so it's not so stiff or hard and stop the bounce you get when you are hard into the turns.
For suspension setup, try these changes. It helped my Attak by keeping the skis more on the ground in the corners.
1) You need to take your Control Rod Wrench that Yamaha has supplied you and loosen off the Inner Nut. Now measure just whereabouts you are on the scale and check your adjuster length. You will see that there is a Min and a Max scale on the wrench. You adjust the Outter Nut and go about half way from the Standard mark in the middle to Max mark, that will be two marks on your wrench scale. That will make a big difference, now you can fine tune it from there whether you need more or less transfer.
2) Now go up front and loosen your front springs on your shocks right off. Then tighten them down finger tight and then go ONE FULL TURN, this will soften up the front end so it's not so stiff or hard and stop the bounce you get when you are hard into the turns.
AttakDog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Agree on loosening the front springs as loose as possible.........
Daranello
Suspended
why does everyone here say to tighten the limiter strap 1 hole from factory to corner like its on rails??
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
It puts more pressure on the skis by lifting the front of the skid.
My front end is lowered until the a-arms are just about flat. I'm sure the spring wold have slack in it when I jump, but I've never noticed any ill effects, or scraping on the shock body, and I like to jump - alot. Try lowering it once and see if you like it. You have to shorten the liiter strap one hole just to compensate for this, so if you still have some pushing in th ecorners, you may have to go another hole.
My front end is lowered until the a-arms are just about flat. I'm sure the spring wold have slack in it when I jump, but I've never noticed any ill effects, or scraping on the shock body, and I like to jump - alot. Try lowering it once and see if you like it. You have to shorten the liiter strap one hole just to compensate for this, so if you still have some pushing in th ecorners, you may have to go another hole.
Alright I'm confused again - one guy says shorten the strap, one guy says as long as possible, we are taking pressure off the skis by loosening the springs, but we want to shorted the strap which lifts the skid and puts more pressure on Skis?! I thought for darting we would want to take most pressure off the skis by lengtheningthe strap, which decreases the skid angle and looseningthe springs up front? wouldn't shortening the strap be worse for trenching and float?
What I've gotten so far is that for loose snow/offtrail/powder and darting - loosen the front springs as much as possible, loosen the mono shock as soft as possible, lengthen the limiter strap to decrease the skid approach angle, and toe in your skis 1/4" and set your transfer rod to minimum weight transfer so you can keep pressure off the front skis. Am I getting these or still lost in space?
What I've gotten so far is that for loose snow/offtrail/powder and darting - loosen the front springs as much as possible, loosen the mono shock as soft as possible, lengthen the limiter strap to decrease the skid approach angle, and toe in your skis 1/4" and set your transfer rod to minimum weight transfer so you can keep pressure off the front skis. Am I getting these or still lost in space?
watersuper
Lifetime Member
Minimum transfer will keep more weight on the skis during acceleration and will not hook the track up as well.
DO NOT toe in you skis. IMHO Slightly toe out, 1/4 inch, with stock skis.
The rest is good.
First thing one should do is set your "set in" on the rear skid. Then look at everything you have mentioned.
DO NOT toe in you skis. IMHO Slightly toe out, 1/4 inch, with stock skis.
The rest is good.
First thing one should do is set your "set in" on the rear skid. Then look at everything you have mentioned.
vx700xtc
Expert
long strap
soft springs
max rod transfer = less darting, but might push in the corner(I like push more than dart) but havent noticed what I would call a problem with push, IMHO.
shorten strap
stiffen springs
min transfer = all the wieght on skis = darting, and heavy steering, poor mpg, lower top speed, slower excelleration. But it will turn like it is on rails(rails being every groove the skis can find)
Always toe out on a sled 1/8 - 1/4"
soft springs
max rod transfer = less darting, but might push in the corner(I like push more than dart) but havent noticed what I would call a problem with push, IMHO.
shorten strap
stiffen springs
min transfer = all the wieght on skis = darting, and heavy steering, poor mpg, lower top speed, slower excelleration. But it will turn like it is on rails(rails being every groove the skis can find)
Always toe out on a sled 1/8 - 1/4"
rhoag
Expert
Ok I am talking from recent experience. My 07 Attack sucked in the corners with inside ski lift. I just got back from riding 130 miles on tight twisty trails and it handled as good or better than any sled I rode with... Rev's and vector. Here is what I did. I ordered and installed a 13 mm sway bar from Rich, with the front end off the ground..loosened up the front springs till they were completely loose then tightened one turn (lowers front end and center of gravity), shortened the limiter strap one hole (compensate for less spring preload on front shocks ...increasing ski pressure), reduced weight transfer from standard to half way between standard and minimum, shimmed the ski's. The Attack isn't an SRX but will handle very very good if you do this.
Daranello
Suspended
rhoag said:Ok I am talking from recent experience. My 07 Attack sucked in the corners with inside ski lift. I just got back from riding 130 miles on tight twisty trails and it handled as good or better than any sled I rode with... Rev's and vector. Here is what I did. I ordered and installed a 13 mm sway bar from Rich, with the front end off the ground..loosened up the front springs till they were completely loose then tightened one turn (lowers front end and center of gravity), shortened the limiter strap one hole (compensate for less spring preload on front shocks ...increasing ski pressure), reduced weight transfer from standard to half way between standard and minimum, shimmed the ski's. The Attack isn't an SRX but will handle very very good if you do this.
Thats the set up im thinking of trying....what will that do to your top speed????
make it slower??
Similar threads
- Replies
- 12
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 8
- Views
- 660
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 1K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.