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Attak slider wear?

So, how is that supposed to work, it's a picture of a bolt and nut.
 

36 for a 121 and 40 for the 136. The picture is deceiving making them look like bolts. The heads are actually flat like a stud. You install them right in the middle of the area that would have been punched out. So now the hyfax rides on these instead of the rubber ;)!
 
Lots of people get nervious and change the hyfax too early. It usually wears down some and then hangs in there a long time. I had 3000 miles on mine and changed them. Then I ran 250 miles and the new ones were right at the same place the first set was. I put on 532 miles last week in a lot of SNIRT and there was no futher wear. I set the track to Spec. No wearpads or oversize wheels. Like I said, some of us just get overly nervious on this issue.
 
I could see aluminum in spots on mine when having the sled tipped on it's side. I think it was time for a change! LOL!

;)!
 
I had to change my hyfax on my apex at 750 miles

after the first 680 miles.. i had no wear at all.. the last 70 miles was on marginal snow and ice... Needless to say they burned off fast at the rear of the middle idlers..

I have another 400 miles on the sled since the new hyfax and it was all in the U.P. on SNOW/ICE mixture.. and hyfax are worn evenly but burned off about 20% of them already..

On a side not... all the cats i ride with have no wear on same conditons..

Not sure what it is about yamaha slides that make them burn off faster than the other brands..
 
It's called friction, I don't believe they have the right wheels on this sled or position in the right place. This sled has a lot of drag.
 
Here's the final word on hifax wear.

Hyfaxes, hifaxes, slides, sliders, runners, whatever you want to call them, there seems to be a major issue with wear on any sled with the Ripsaw track that is clipped only every 3rd rib and has the closed window every other window. In other words you have a clipped rib, open window, non-clipped rib, closed window, non-clipped rib, open window. Supposedly the closed window was to catch snow but all it did was rub against the slide, heat it up and build up plastic on the closed window. There seems to be 3 solutions that have been posted.

1. Put on low snow wheels and add additional idler wheels. This can be expensive and if Yamaha made a decent idler wheel (whole other issue), this could be a long term fix.

2. Cut out the closed windows and clip all the ribs. This is very time consumming and prone to mistakes and somewhat expensive but it works and is a long term fix.

3. SLP anti-wear pads. Cheap, $30. Easy, 2 hours of labor. They work. I put them on my '05 Rs Venture at the beginning of this year and have put on 1700 miles and have only worn off 1.5mm of hifax. The Venture atarts with 18.5mm of hifax and has a wear limit of 10.5mm giving me 8mm of usable hifax. Last year after 1700 miles I had worn off 6mm. Based on this year's rate of wear with the pads, my hifax should last 9,000 miles - SWEEET.

Yo, Yamaha, this only proves that the closed window Ripsaw track is a bad design and you should back and pay for one of the solutions and re-imburse people for all the replaced hifaxes. I'd also like to know how you tested this track, you must wait for perfect conditions and then do your testing.

Boys, don't hold your breath, get some peice of mind and go with solution 3.

Starting Line Products 208-529-0244
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/
Part # 25-102 Anti-Wear Pad Kit 40 Pak (other packs available)
Part# 20-160 Track drill 1/4"

Pics -
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
 
Over 2000 miles on totally shittty conditions most of the time & no hyfax problems!!!

My rear wheels, the second set, have been without rubber for 1600 miles too!!!

My Attak, I love!!!

BR
 
1200 miles on my Attak and the slides look close to new. I think you guys are running on to much snirt. The trails around here a few weeks ago were dark brown snow so I stayed off, if you ride these dirty trails dont expect to get any kind of milage out of your slides also you will be doing alot of damage to your track ckips. If driven on actual white snow they will last along time.
 
white snow, WTF is that? I cant wait for snow anymore, i'll ride on 2 inches. dirt, mud, blood and beer i dont care. besides, the trails cant get 2' chop if theres only 2 inches of snow :Rockon:
 
Just got done riding 580 miles last week from North Mich to Da' U.P...... Wednesday to Saturday. I don't think I have to remind everyone how warm it got on Friday & Saturday..........45 - 50!!

Before my ride, I added new slides on my Attak along with:

1) The 4 outside wheels changed to Polaris wheels...because they are taller.
2) Rear heat exchanger....because MY Attak over heats regardless of coolant.
3) Woody's Doolies.

Results:

580 care free miles!!! NO ware on my slides.....none! NO over heating...........not even in 45 - 50 temps!! NO darting........GONE!

The above works for me. The only thing that chased me off the sled was the warm temps and lack of snow to get into towns.
;)!
 
I just got a set of the SLP anti-wear pads.

I have the Ice Ripper track, which has all open windows. My concern is drilling through the rod or whatever is in the track to give it strength.

Have you guys had no problems with that? Also, my track has a big lug right the pad should mount on every third spot. Did you guys have that with your RipSaw tracks?

GW
 
The pads are meant to be installed in the closed window of the ripsaw. Won't work on an open track. If your track is open and not clipped, you need to clip it.... Never drill into the rods.
 


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