Jabber
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2005
- Messages
- 120
- Location
- Penticton B.C.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder mtn 162
It sounds like you are having the same problem I've had with my carbs. THE LITTLE BLACK O RING on the main jet. If those little buggers don't seal properly you will get that sputter/backfire with no throtle response up to mid range. Make sure that when you put the float bowls back on you lube up the o ring with a bit of oil.
The o rings are a metric size but I have replaced mine with a standard size. The standard size o rings are a bit smaller in diameter but they are a bit thicker. Since changing the orings I've had no more problems.
The o rings are a metric size but I have replaced mine with a standard size. The standard size o rings are a bit smaller in diameter but they are a bit thicker. Since changing the orings I've had no more problems.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Jabber having the o ring off the main jet will not cause a sputtering unless on steep inclines I have mine off of both my sleds and they are both running fine.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
ELLIOTlakeRX1 said:NICE thank you man
Guess im going to learn how carbs work afterall!!!
You guys are all amazing help. Can't believe the input ive got from everyone.
I will post back with results or questions when they arise!
One more thing make sure your screw driver you use to take the float bowls screws out fits in nice on some screw drivers filing a bit off the end of your screw driver makes it fit deeper into the screw and less chance of stripping the head of the screw.
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
Well its 2am, ive been working on my sled for about 6 hours tonight and i cleaned the carbs, turns out that one of the small long jets had something inside of it, i could see through all the jets except one so i cleaned out the carbs, accidentally got carb cleaner on the rubber seals and they expanded so that took about an hour to get the bowls back on lol...
its running perfect now. i cant believe it what a job.....
thanks for all the help guys.
its running perfect now. i cant believe it what a job.....
thanks for all the help guys.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Right on now go and enjoy all of your hard work! Remember run regular fuel and to start it when its warm just give it a little throttle while cranking it over. To start when its cold full choke until it starts then gradually bring the choke off right away use how its running as your guide to bringing off the choke. Enjoy your yammi.
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
Oh i just wanted to add something here.
Not only did i clean the carbs once, but i did it again because after enlarging my seals due to contamination of carb cleaner, i decided to use Permatex 27BR Red Gasket Maker on the seals to hold them in place.
DO NOT EVER USE THAT STUFF NEAR GAS!!!
I took my sled out after doing all this and it ran awesome!!! for about 5 minutes. Until i had it wide open across the first lake and very severe bogging/backfiring, worse then before
so i took it back to the shop and let it sit over night, ripped it all apart again in the morning, very pissed off at this point
and i open the bowls again, and they were FULL of gel which was once the gasket material i used.
So yeah i had to do another full cleaning of the carbs.
I have since added another 800miles on the odometer since this ordeal and havent had a problem since. Infact just last night i went on my first long haul tear of the season, we went from Elliot Lake, to Iron Bridge, to Blind River and back to Elliot Lake, yes i know you dont know where these places are but thats besides the point. It was one hell of a ride about 4 hours and several AWESOME near death experiences!!!!
Not only did i clean the carbs once, but i did it again because after enlarging my seals due to contamination of carb cleaner, i decided to use Permatex 27BR Red Gasket Maker on the seals to hold them in place.
DO NOT EVER USE THAT STUFF NEAR GAS!!!
I took my sled out after doing all this and it ran awesome!!! for about 5 minutes. Until i had it wide open across the first lake and very severe bogging/backfiring, worse then before
so i took it back to the shop and let it sit over night, ripped it all apart again in the morning, very pissed off at this point
and i open the bowls again, and they were FULL of gel which was once the gasket material i used.
So yeah i had to do another full cleaning of the carbs.
I have since added another 800miles on the odometer since this ordeal and havent had a problem since. Infact just last night i went on my first long haul tear of the season, we went from Elliot Lake, to Iron Bridge, to Blind River and back to Elliot Lake, yes i know you dont know where these places are but thats besides the point. It was one hell of a ride about 4 hours and several AWESOME near death experiences!!!!
NytroIke06
Newbie
ELLIOTlakeRX1,
Great to see all is well in yamaland! Enjoy the season after all your hard work!
Great to see all is well in yamaland! Enjoy the season after all your hard work!
machu
Veteran
I know this is an old thread but what was the actual route of the problem?, the carbs or the exhaust?, I have the same sled, doing exactly the same thing, also what was the rattling noise?, thanks in advance for any input.
Elton Buss
Lifetime Member
Machu, the rattling was most likely the heat shield for the exhaust. they rattle at idle.
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
A couple more answers from your original post:
-the heat shields between the track and pipes always come loose or get broken. They can be removed with no worries, if you replace them they will break again.
-I think if you search on here you will find that these sleds run better on low octane as that is what they are set up for. You should use the high octane for storage though because it has no ethanol and that is what will grow green stuff inside the carbs.
-not sure if you ordered stock donuts but the aftermarket copper ones will last much longer and they are available from 'Crewchief' who is a site sponsor.
Good luck
-the heat shields between the track and pipes always come loose or get broken. They can be removed with no worries, if you replace them they will break again.
-I think if you search on here you will find that these sleds run better on low octane as that is what they are set up for. You should use the high octane for storage though because it has no ethanol and that is what will grow green stuff inside the carbs.
-not sure if you ordered stock donuts but the aftermarket copper ones will last much longer and they are available from 'Crewchief' who is a site sponsor.
Good luck
machu
Veteran
thanks for the response guys, I just purchased the sled and Saturday was my first ride, it sputtered and backfired about 4-5 times, I used up all the gas, put in some fresh stuff that night and added some seafoam, let it sit overnight, then out again on sunday with no complaints, no backfire, other than the oil light came on for a minute then went out, but my oil level is ok?
I will check the heatshields for the rattle though it seems to rattle bad when I crank it over warm, sounds like i'm sucking up leaves, lol, and you can hear it slightly while riding the trails, and I will look into the donuts.
I will check the heatshields for the rattle though it seems to rattle bad when I crank it over warm, sounds like i'm sucking up leaves, lol, and you can hear it slightly while riding the trails, and I will look into the donuts.
jrap1111
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 03 RX-1
Hello. I'm a newby to carb cleaning for my 03 rx1 and I have a question regarding the references to the man jet o rings. I assume this is accessed by removing the main jet seat. In looking at the service manual the main jet seat doesn't look threaded yet it has a hex shape that would fit a box wrench. Does this thing screw off to remove it and how essential is it to remove and clean the seat versus just the main jet? I'm nervous about applying pressure with a box wrench and don't want to break anything.
Also do you recommend spraying carb cleaner down the three pilot holes or would that potentially mess up the piston valve and other o rings if the cleaner leaked through to the top of the carb (or should I just remove and clean that too?). Thanks for any help or advice!
Also do you recommend spraying carb cleaner down the three pilot holes or would that potentially mess up the piston valve and other o rings if the cleaner leaked through to the top of the carb (or should I just remove and clean that too?). Thanks for any help or advice!
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 21,493
- Age
- 54
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- Schofield, WI
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- www.totallyamaha.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
Hello. I'm a newby to carb cleaning for my 03 rx1 and I have a question regarding the references to the man jet o rings. I assume this is accessed by removing the main jet seat. In looking at the service manual the main jet seat doesn't look threaded yet it has a hex shape that would fit a box wrench. Does this thing screw off to remove it and how essential is it to remove and clean the seat versus just the main jet? I'm nervous about applying pressure with a box wrench and don't want to break anything.
Also do you recommend spraying carb cleaner down the three pilot holes or would that potentially mess up the piston valve and other o rings if the cleaner leaked through to the top of the carb (or should I just remove and clean that too?). Thanks for any help or advice!
Clean everything... its easy... worst thing is pulling the carb rack. http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmob...Carb Cleaning/Carb cleaning 101 with pics.htm
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
no matter what is wrong with a RX1, clean the carbs!
Sasquatch
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2004
- Messages
- 3,699
- Location
- North Western Ontario
- Website
- www.dptc.com
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha's
I knew you had to post that sooner or later! LOL!no matter what is wrong with a RX1, clean the carbs!
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