dirkdiggler
Suspended
2jzpgt said:dirkdiggler said:2jzpgt said:dirkdiggler said:When you add these Do you also have to go with the RSI Grip?
If so how is the RSI grip compared to the Yamaha?
No, I don't think you would have to use the RSI grips. I personnally couldn't get the stock grips removed in one pc without wrecking them so I op'ed for the RSI 8" grips. The RSI are much better, I'm glad I did.
Usually you glue the Grips on. It looks like they use Safety wire to attach the RSI grips. How did you attach them?
I used Grip Glue to glue my RSI's on.
The stock grips are glued on too, and a a PITA to get off.
Awesome thank you for your posts. When I have a some time I'm going to make this change
stewartb
Expert
arteeex said:A truly clever person might start reading that link from the last page.
Well you identified the primary problem!
I did see your wiring stuff. Thanks for that. It was gracious of you to share your work. While I can understand your diagrams well enough I don't understand the theory. So.....what risk is there in the RSI installation without the resistors? Because the grips are capable of using more current doesn't mean the ECU can supply it, right? The limiting factor is the power supply, isn't it? Are you concerned with harming the ECU or the grips themselves if you left the resistor out?
Stewart
I used hairspray to glue the Ski-Doo grips on and compressed air to slide them over the heaters without damaging them. Worked like a charm... I also have 4 amp fuses installed as a safety for the ECU.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
stewartb
Expert
Thanks for the concise answers.
One more related question. Are the handlebar hooks add-on parts or are they part of the bars? I'm not near my sled at the moment. I was daydreaming about the guys who suggested foaming the bars and got to thinking about access for the foam nozzle, and specifically whether the bar interior can be accessed from the hole in the grip end. Comments?
Stewart
One more related question. Are the handlebar hooks add-on parts or are they part of the bars? I'm not near my sled at the moment. I was daydreaming about the guys who suggested foaming the bars and got to thinking about access for the foam nozzle, and specifically whether the bar interior can be accessed from the hole in the grip end. Comments?
Stewart
dmax_nytro
Newbie
I am in the process of putting the rsi warmers, Grips, and carbon fiber race bars on my sled, can you tell me how to hook these things up so they work on the stock controls?
stewartb
Expert
a) I answered my own question. The hooks are apparently integral to the bar. There is no obstruction when sticking a probe through the grip end hole. I happen to have a narrow-tipped foam gun so I think I'll inject some foam to see if it helps. I have nothing to lose.
b) This link shows the RSI heat elements including the installation instructions. Look to the bottom of the installation page for brand specific wiring, or use the link Arteeex provided earlier and look at his post on page 19 that includes wiring instructions that utilize resistors.
http://www.rsiracing.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=207
SB
b) This link shows the RSI heat elements including the installation instructions. Look to the bottom of the installation page for brand specific wiring, or use the link Arteeex provided earlier and look at his post on page 19 that includes wiring instructions that utilize resistors.
http://www.rsiracing.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=207
SB
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Note that the RSI heaters are a 3-wire affair and the stock grips use just two wires. From my notes, combining the BLUE and WHITE wires as suggested by RSI will provide about 7-Ohms resistance, which is very close to the stock grip heaters. This configuration won't increase output significantly. To get more heat (wattage) you need a lower resistance circuit.
Combining the RED and BLUE provides a 3.2-Ohm circuit for much greater output. To run the heaters this way I suggest you also add a 1-Ohm resistor in series with each heater to reduce the current draw and the stress on the heaters and other systems.
The unknown in this is how much current the ECU can provide to the grip heaters without damage. Adding the resistors to get a resistance of about 4.2 Ohms per grip was a conservative approach to reduce the chances of toasting something valuable.
This setup is working well for me, but once you cut the wires on your sled you're on your own. I would suggest that you read the last few pages in the post below. Many people contributed to the exercise and there are several good ideas presented.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
Combining the RED and BLUE provides a 3.2-Ohm circuit for much greater output. To run the heaters this way I suggest you also add a 1-Ohm resistor in series with each heater to reduce the current draw and the stress on the heaters and other systems.
The unknown in this is how much current the ECU can provide to the grip heaters without damage. Adding the resistors to get a resistance of about 4.2 Ohms per grip was a conservative approach to reduce the chances of toasting something valuable.
This setup is working well for me, but once you cut the wires on your sled you're on your own. I would suggest that you read the last few pages in the post below. Many people contributed to the exercise and there are several good ideas presented.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
Dennis
Veteran
I guess this is likely a stupid question. But, isn't the electrical current being provided to the grips, via the wires, controlled by the ECU of the sled? If that is the case, how does the ECU know, or care, where the power is going?
I am guessing that what your are suggesting is that this concept is similar to the Ohms of stereo speakers, where adding "more" draw, speakers to one line that is, will work but causes the amp to overheat and distort, thus messing with the source of power.....
I am guessing that what your are suggesting is that this concept is similar to the Ohms of stereo speakers, where adding "more" draw, speakers to one line that is, will work but causes the amp to overheat and distort, thus messing with the source of power.....
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
The lower the resistance in a circuit the higher the current draw. It's like opening a valve on a waterline. When the valve is open slightly there's greater resistance and less flow. Open it fully for less resistance and higher flow.
When the current does work the output is measured in Watts, a unit of power. The reason for the concern here is the supply of Watts on the Nytro is limited.
When the current does work the output is measured in Watts, a unit of power. The reason for the concern here is the supply of Watts on the Nytro is limited.
2jzpgt said:I just wanted to give some feedback on this as I know this was a hot topic earlier in the winter.
I have been running RSI handwarmers on my sled for a month now and have not had any problems. I am NOT using any kind of resistor. Just wiring it staight up. My sled it still running and my ECU hasn't melted down as of yet. And let me tell you. These things are hot!!! It's nice to have warm hands on this sled. I have run these on HIGH for extended periods and no problems. Well I did have one problem: It gets soo hot you can't hold onto the bars.LOL
I give a big thumbs up to RSI!!!![]()
Which wires did you combine, Blue & White wires or Red & Blue to make it a two wire system??
Bamboo said:2jzpgt said:I just wanted to give some feedback on this as I know this was a hot topic earlier in the winter.
I have been running RSI handwarmers on my sled for a month now and have not had any problems. I am NOT using any kind of resistor. Just wiring it staight up. My sled it still running and my ECU hasn't melted down as of yet. And let me tell you. These things are hot!!! It's nice to have warm hands on this sled. I have run these on HIGH for extended periods and no problems. Well I did have one problem: It gets soo hot you can't hold onto the bars.LOL
I give a big thumbs up to RSI!!!![]()
Which wires did you combine, Blue & White wires or Red & Blue to make it a two wire system??
For a hotter grip, combine the red/blue wires. Blue/White is real close to the stock heaters.
snirt
Extreme
do these heaters work with the stock control? i am thinking of getting there alum bars and wire the red and blue together on the warmers...could this work??
OK but what wire set up did you use? I want to do the same???TurboMatt said:I just wanted to give some feedback on this as I know this was a hot topic earlier in the winter.
I have been running RSI handwarmers on my sled for a month now and have not had any problems. I am NOT using any kind of resistor. Just wiring it staight up. My sled it still running and my ECU hasn't melted down as of yet. And let me tell you. These things are hot!!! It's nice to have warm hands on this sled. I have run these on HIGH for extended periods and no problems. Well I did have one problem: It gets soo hot you can't hold onto the bars.LOL
I give a big thumbs up to RSI!!!![]()
Thanks
T
Snowman07
Expert
I installed my RSI handwarmers a week ago. Today was the first chance I had to really see if the worked......and they did!!!!!
The install was totally easy. instructions were way to easy.
The install was totally easy. instructions were way to easy.
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