Broken front arm linkage again!

[DaveRX1]

Well I broke the front arm linkage for the second time, first time was @500 miles, second time was at 3000 miles (updated front arm and aluminum link). This time the piece that broke was the steel piece that connects the aluminum link to the front arm pivot shaft that connects the front arm to the rails. Skid is out and headed to work with me tomorrow for a little quality time with the welder. The only bummer is I broke two plastic bushings removing the skid.

 

[cannondale27]

Some of the plastic bushings are slit right from factory.Yes not very good stuff.

 

[yam177]

I have welded and gusseted that arm for racing nor more issues even after the I500

 

[DaveRX1]

Well, I repaired and reinforced the broken suspension link, but now I have discovered that my shock(s) are blown. I suspect that the shocks went bad when the link was broken causing the skid to bottom out. I am not sure if both rear shock are bad, or if it is only the center shock that has lost its damping action. From the way it looks like the suspension works when the link is broken it appears that the center shock bottoms very easy. I did notice when i had the skid out, the center shock didnt seem to have any rebound damping.

Has anyone else noticed any shock damage when the link breaks???Was it the rear shock or the center shock or both???

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Well, I repaired and reinforced the broken suspension link, but now I have discovered that my shock(s) are blown. I suspect that the shocks went bad when the link was broken causing the skid to bottom out. I am not sure if both rear shock are bad, or if it is only the center shock that has lost its damping action. From the way it looks like the suspension works when the link is broken it appears that the center shock bottoms very easy. I did notice when i had the skid out, the center shock didnt seem to have any rebound damping.

Has anyone else noticed any shock damage when the link breaks???Was it the rear shock or the center shock or both???

Dave, reviving an old thread here. Did you ever figure out if it was a shock issue with your breaks? Or get any feedback that wasn't posted???

 

[Mooseman]

He probably won't reply since all subscriptions were lost during the forum upgrade last summer. This is also called necroposting (i.e reviving dead threads). Yamaha has since updated the link arm and is now reinforced.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

He probably won't reply since all subscriptions were lost during the forum upgrade last summer. This is also called necroposting (i.e reviving dead threads). Yamaha has since updated the link arm and is now reinforced.

Thanks Moose, ya learn something new everyday!! That's too fancy of a word for me tho
I've purchased an updated 13 arm last season. It broke pretty after a few hundred miles, same spot as the rest.
Been searching through the threads in hopes to find some firm answers on these broken arms. Seems Yam177's re-enforcing or "necroforcing" was the best thing to do.
I'd really like to see a clear culprit tho, as in a particular blown shock, or iced interally ect.
Just razzin on the necro part. Hope it doesn't cause issues with forum upgrade or something.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes even with good shocks the arm will still break for a aggressive rider. Bring it to a welder and get it reinforced. If its your link thats breaking be sure to look at the steel shaft it pivots on. It must be absolutely true not bent for suspension to work properly. If possible replace the cheap plastic bushings in the steel part of link with Oil Lite. Fill the whole link not just the ends. They are available at Ace Hardware but the ID will have to be machined to fit the steel shaft. Make it a close fit. This prevents the shaft from bending.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Yes even with good shocks the arm will still break for a aggressive rider. Bring it to a welder and get it reinforced. If its your link thats breaking be sure to look at the steel shaft it pivots on. It must be absolutely true not bent for suspension to work properly. If possible replace the cheap plastic bushings in the steel part of link with Oil Lite. Fill the whole link not just the ends. They are available at Ace Hardware but the ID will have to be machined to fit the steel shaft. Make it a close fit. This prevents the shaft from bending.

Thanks Cannondale27!!
I found pics of yam177's work, been on net and here. I have a good friend who runs a shop. I will cut, fab all my own (pretty much copying yam's) and welding myself as well. If his is holding up to snowX I'm sure it'll work.

 

[cannondale27]

It will.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

 

[2stroken]

Got pictures of the repairs?