wigman1
Pro
Man, listening to you guys, you'd think the Apex was a piece of CRAP! I have an '07 ER, absolutely LOVE it. Adjusted the suspension for my 300lb weight, it doesn't bottom out, handles just fine, and rides like a Caddy. Of course, I don't ride like a maniac, I stick to the groomed trails and average probably 40mph. The best part is with my fat a$$ on the sled, it still blows away just about anything I come up against on the lakes, and gets 15-18mpg to boot. And I don't smell like a big french fry at the end of the day. Pretty good, I'd say. 
Wig
Wig
kotapug
Expert
I ride 90% ditch because that is all we have around here and the apex is not the best sled for that the way they come from the factory. I know there is not a sled I ride with that can stay with me on a straight flat surface but in the twisty trails and the rough ditch/trail the apex is not the best.Anyone know about the Y.E.S. ?
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
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What do you want to know? Have you read the threads in the Apex/Attak FAQ on Y.E.S.?kotapug said:
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Swiss Sledder said:
You're talking about the value of the YES? I could be wrong, but doubt seriously that Yammi will let you transfer it to another sled. My bet is YES remaining value is probably best handled as an accessory on the sled you're claiming the loss on - with the insurance company.
If you really are riding 90% ditch, I can't believe you'd buy another Apex. Forgetting about the Apex weight issue in that type use for a moment, neither suspension is going to hold up all that well in that application. You're thinking about going with a temporary sled, why not pick up a decent used ditch banger you can toss around? You could probably keep it for what you are getting ready to loose going the way you're talking about here.....then buy the sled your talking about and have 2 of them?
87gtNOS
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How many of you have actually stood there and looked at and lifted up a new Doo XP chassis? Forget the Z1 Turbo cat....they're heavier than the RX1 and a Thundercat. But that XP chassis is so light!! This a Yamalaughs biggest problem.
I am gonna keep my eye on the durability of the new 1200 chassis and motors. I was VERY close to owning one with the Fuller Turbo (VERY CLOSE!).
If they hold up well, it will be 'LIGHT WEIGHT 4 STROKE' for me next season. Guess what color? YELLOW.
I am gonna keep my eye on the durability of the new 1200 chassis and motors. I was VERY close to owning one with the Fuller Turbo (VERY CLOSE!).
If they hold up well, it will be 'LIGHT WEIGHT 4 STROKE' for me next season. Guess what color? YELLOW.
kotapug
Expert
For know I will not buy the doo 1200 because the first year of something is always the trial year . I would rather and this kind of hurts to say but own the doo 2 smoke 800 if I had to buy one this year.The doo dealer by me says they are putting a factory turbo on next year but he thinks the price is going to be alot to where most wont buy.The xp's are great for the ditch as 3 of my buddys have them and you can really make them move with no effort. So yes if YAMAHA could lose about 75 lbs they would in my opinion move into the #1 spot quickly.
Oh, went and got the estimate done on my rtx and they said it was a total loss. Does anyone have any idea about what the ins. company will be asking for it if I want to buy it back?
Oh, went and got the estimate done on my rtx and they said it was a total loss. Does anyone have any idea about what the ins. company will be asking for it if I want to buy it back?
87gtNOS
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kotapug said:
...yeah, 2006 Apex was a trial year, then Yamalaugh took out the MONO skid and put in that 1985 Polaris skid for 2007...what's it called? No-Active?
kotapug
Expert
Ha Ha, but true and they still use it .They could start with a dif valve stack and make alot of people happier.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
If they wanted 2500 for it I would be suprised.
But then again you can sell the motor for that..... I dont recall how bad your buddy busted it up. Did you ever put pics. You could stand to make some good money parting it, but that can be a hassle too.
Im not that far away wish I was able to pick up the motor
But then again you can sell the motor for that..... I dont recall how bad your buddy busted it up. Did you ever put pics. You could stand to make some good money parting it, but that can be a hassle too.
Im not that far away wish I was able to pick up the motor
kotapug
Expert
I will try to get some pics up. I know I can get it back to new looking except the left foot board is bent up pretty bad so you would still notice that after being bent back.To fix the rest I will need left exhaust cover,pod is broke,kill switch,handlebars,windshield, airbox cover,rear skid shocks broke off the rear bar and cosmetic issues on the hood,right side pannel.I dont know how tweaked it is because when the dealer saw the tunnel he said it was a total loss. He asked if I wanted it bent back and I asked him if he would give me high trade in after that and he said no . I told him that should answer his question.
Rove44
Extreme
Wigman
I just purchased a 07apexer leftover i would like to know what suspension adjustments i could do i am about 240# dressed and loaded.
Thanks
I just purchased a 07apexer leftover i would like to know what suspension adjustments i could do i am about 240# dressed and loaded.
Thanks
kotapug
Expert
From: Mikecam
To: kotapug
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:00 pm
Subject: Re: RTX suspension Quote message
I'm 240 with out gear. So there will be changes to how you are set up but shouldn't be that far off. First off my floats are set at 37 psi. I did that for inside ski lift only but it really helped with the whole ride. Go one hole tighter then stock on the front straps. My transfer rods show two lines. Put the sled on a stand and grab a big slotted screwdriver and a hammer. Very gently tap the lower ring on the front shock of the rear skid. Turn it down about one inch. Grab the whole shock in your hand and turn the whole thing. The upper ring should turn with the shock. Turn it down till you can move the shock up and down and then tighten it just so the shock stays in place. Don;t forget to tighten up the lower ring so everything stays in place. I bought the overload clickers because of my weight but for you I would try the cam on both medium and hard. Now the compression setting on the shock. Use the same big slotted screwdriver and turn it in till it stops(clockwise). DO NOT FORCE IT. When it stops turn it out (counter clockwise) and count 20 clicks from the shock. Do not go any further then 20 clicks. Now you have your compression set at the very lowest setting. It will bottom out easy. The trick is to find that sweet spot. Throw the screwdriver in the seat and go for a ride. Depending on if your cam's are set on medium or high will depend on how many clicks in you go with the compression. Because you like the bumps I would start with the cams on hard. Again only turn the compression up if you are bottoming out to much. What is too much, good question. If I ride all day and only bottom out once or twice I have it set to high. If I bottom out 5,6, even 10 times in a whole day I would leave it where it is. If I bottom out 20 or 30 times you are set too soft and you will need to turn it up. I go up 2 clicks at a time. Keep in mind this sled is rough trail meaning for me it isn't a total ditch banger. I've been down my share of crap trails and it handles very well. With you being lighter it should be easier for you too find the sweetspot. But I could be wrong. Remember to use compression as only the last resort. Lots of guys on here crank them up to keep from bottoming out and all it does IMO is make it ride like a tank. If I have left anything out fell free to ask. Keep me posted on what works for you. One way or another us RTX guys will figure out this skid. Good luck. Dan
To: kotapug
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:00 pm
Subject: Re: RTX suspension Quote message
I'm 240 with out gear. So there will be changes to how you are set up but shouldn't be that far off. First off my floats are set at 37 psi. I did that for inside ski lift only but it really helped with the whole ride. Go one hole tighter then stock on the front straps. My transfer rods show two lines. Put the sled on a stand and grab a big slotted screwdriver and a hammer. Very gently tap the lower ring on the front shock of the rear skid. Turn it down about one inch. Grab the whole shock in your hand and turn the whole thing. The upper ring should turn with the shock. Turn it down till you can move the shock up and down and then tighten it just so the shock stays in place. Don;t forget to tighten up the lower ring so everything stays in place. I bought the overload clickers because of my weight but for you I would try the cam on both medium and hard. Now the compression setting on the shock. Use the same big slotted screwdriver and turn it in till it stops(clockwise). DO NOT FORCE IT. When it stops turn it out (counter clockwise) and count 20 clicks from the shock. Do not go any further then 20 clicks. Now you have your compression set at the very lowest setting. It will bottom out easy. The trick is to find that sweet spot. Throw the screwdriver in the seat and go for a ride. Depending on if your cam's are set on medium or high will depend on how many clicks in you go with the compression. Because you like the bumps I would start with the cams on hard. Again only turn the compression up if you are bottoming out to much. What is too much, good question. If I ride all day and only bottom out once or twice I have it set to high. If I bottom out 5,6, even 10 times in a whole day I would leave it where it is. If I bottom out 20 or 30 times you are set too soft and you will need to turn it up. I go up 2 clicks at a time. Keep in mind this sled is rough trail meaning for me it isn't a total ditch banger. I've been down my share of crap trails and it handles very well. With you being lighter it should be easier for you too find the sweetspot. But I could be wrong. Remember to use compression as only the last resort. Lots of guys on here crank them up to keep from bottoming out and all it does IMO is make it ride like a tank. If I have left anything out fell free to ask. Keep me posted on what works for you. One way or another us RTX guys will figure out this skid. Good luck. Dan
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Kota....get a hold of me if you buy it back.
I got yellow exhaust covers, and the skid sitting out of my RTX...... I may be able to help you at least get it on the snow this year cheaper than the dealer anyways.
I dont know where in Minn you are exactly...but IM an hour from LaCrosse.
I got yellow exhaust covers, and the skid sitting out of my RTX...... I may be able to help you at least get it on the snow this year cheaper than the dealer anyways.
I dont know where in Minn you are exactly...but IM an hour from LaCrosse.
kotapug
Expert
I will do that and I live 35 miles sw of Mankato if you know where that is .
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yeah think so..... your not too far less than 1.5 hours. May be easier than shipping.
Hell I even have an 06 windshield sitting here. I got a stabilizer bar, 2 sets of skis (even the black/yellow looped ones) hell they have bergstroms on them. Could make you a package deal. One is BRAND new as I hurt one slightly when I wrecked.....but I still rode it all winiter. So I guess I have 5 skis here. LOL
Crap.....sorry for the thread hijack.
Kota get some pics up on your original thread. In the next day or two Iwill look around at exactly what I have.
Heck just realized I got black stock hand guards too
Hell I even have an 06 windshield sitting here. I got a stabilizer bar, 2 sets of skis (even the black/yellow looped ones) hell they have bergstroms on them. Could make you a package deal. One is BRAND new as I hurt one slightly when I wrecked.....but I still rode it all winiter. So I guess I have 5 skis here. LOL
Crap.....sorry for the thread hijack.
Kota get some pics up on your original thread. In the next day or two Iwill look around at exactly what I have.
Heck just realized I got black stock hand guards too
