Bypassing TORS. Why? What's the benefit?

Daranello said:
00-NUKE said:
Thanks guys. So far it seems that there is no benefit. I only asked because I get a split second hesitation when I let off and get back on the throttle and it seems to be in the start of the throttle position range. I've had it ever since I added the Hindle Exhaust and Fuel controller, but have tried every map in the book with the same result.

Thanks again!

thats the bypass valve to reduce engine breaking...normal it becomes more noticeable with mods....and there's no fix

It sucks that there is no fix for this. I only got about 800 miles in this winter, but it drove me nuts for every one of them!

Thanks again guys. :rocks:
 
00-NUKE said:
Daranello said:
00-NUKE said:
Thanks guys. So far it seems that there is no benefit. I only asked because I get a split second hesitation when I let off and get back on the throttle and it seems to be in the start of the throttle position range. I've had it ever since I added the Hindle Exhaust and Fuel controller, but have tried every map in the book with the same result.

Thanks again!

thats the bypass valve to reduce engine breaking...normal it becomes more noticeable with mods....and there's no fix

It sucks that there is no fix for this. I only got about 800 miles in this winter, but it drove me nuts for every one of them!

Thanks again guys. :rocks:

don't cut the throttle fully,,,

oh and get the revs above 9000...mine loved the RPMs 9250-9300 was my sweet spot on top end
 
Nuke...did you try the map ffrom the guy out west...I have a map that was created from auto tune and it is supposed to be excellent. FWIW...I started to get some popping this season when I changed up my clutching and gearing...the prior season I had ZERO popping or hesitation but that is with an RB3. I will be mapping the setup this season with PC5 and an auto tune..hopefully we get a great map
 
shaddow44 said:
Nuke...did you try the map ffrom the guy out west...I have a map that was created from auto tune and it is supposed to be excellent. FWIW...I started to get some popping this season when I changed up my clutching and gearing...the prior season I had ZERO popping or hesitation but that is with an RB3. I will be mapping the setup this season with PC5 and an auto tune..hopefully we get a great map

I've heard that the RB3 works very well and has little to no hesitation. The problem is the cost of the RB3 compared to the PCIII or PCV is substantial. If you come up with anything for the PCV, please let me know.
 
I have the same hesitation problem and am wondering if my idea for a solution may work.
Ok, the IAC(idle air control valve) seems to be causing this problem. When you let off it opens to reduce enginge braking and when you hit the throttle again there is a slight hiccup. But you cant just disable it because it also raises the idle speed for start-up. If you disable it you can't start your sled, so I'm told.

So my idea is to install a longer hose that goes from the IAC to the air box and a shut-off valve in the line. That way you could have normal functionality when you start it, and once it's warmed up you could shut the valve and disable the IAC. Of coarse the trade-off would be increased engine braking.

Like I said it's just an idea but does any one see any problems or damage this could do?
 
redrider18 said:
Any comments?
I wish I could help ya! I haven't dug that deep. I miss the day of good old carburated sleds that didn't require a laptop and an engineer to make it run right. Rediculous!
 
I used to bypass ours when we drag raced, they said it could cause a hesitation when going to wide open throttle but other than that as long as it's adjusted properly theirs no reason to bypass it.
 
baggs66 said:
I used to bypass ours when we drag raced, they said it could cause a hesitation when going to wide open throttle but other than that as long as it's adjusted properly theirs no reason to bypass it.

X2 all about adjustment
 


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