00-NUKE
Expert
I read earlier about some people bypassing the Throttle Orveride Position Sensor (TORS) on their Nytro's. What is the purpose behind this? Does it have anything to do with an aftermarket exhaust hesitation?


yamiboost
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Alot guys running boost seem to be bypassing the tors i know i did on my apex. letting off the trottle too quick would always set it off. Dont know why anyone would do it without boost...
If you freeze up a throttle cable you'll wish it was
there. There is a vid of a guy that had his disconnected and the sled took off at mach 4 with out
him. It found a tree about 100 yards later. It's just a switch that goes to a rev limiter circuit in the
ECU.
there. There is a vid of a guy that had his disconnected and the sled took off at mach 4 with out
him. It found a tree about 100 yards later. It's just a switch that goes to a rev limiter circuit in the
ECU.
yamaha1973
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very important safety feature... id say leave it alone!
Dimebag
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You dont want the TORS acting up when climbing a steep chute..
Mine did.
I disconnected the tors. But I always ride with a tether.
Mine did.
I disconnected the tors. But I always ride with a tether.
Try a Tether, everyone should run one with or without Tors. The main reason to disconnect it is to avoid the nuisance. It is very sensitive and can be a pain sometimes. But absolutely don't run no Tors and no tether. I've made the mistake and it's not good. I run a tether only, no tors.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
And, clip the tether to you before turning the key. Having the sled drive away WFO without you is only funny until it hits someone.
arteeex said:And, clip the tether to you before turning the key. Having the sled drive away WFO without you is only funny until it hits someone.
Mine took a 200' vertical fall into a ravine. But yeah... Snow got under the throttle from a roll over and away it went when I started it back up.
Daranello
Suspended
00-NUKE
Expert
Thanks guys. So far it seems that there is no benefit. I only asked because I get a split second hesitation when I let off and get back on the throttle and it seems to be in the start of the throttle position range. I've had it ever since I added the Hindle Exhaust and Fuel controller, but have tried every map in the book with the same result.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!

kviper
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If it was TORS you should get a code! Sounds like a lean spot.
Daranello
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00-NUKE said:Thanks guys. So far it seems that there is no benefit. I only asked because I get a split second hesitation when I let off and get back on the throttle and it seems to be in the start of the throttle position range. I've had it ever since I added the Hindle Exhaust and Fuel controller, but have tried every map in the book with the same result.
Thanks again!
thats the bypass valve to reduce engine breaking...normal it becomes more noticeable with mods....and there's no fix
Dimebag
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00-NUKE said:Thanks guys. So far it seems that there is no benefit. I only asked because I get a split second hesitation when I let off and get back on the throttle and it seems to be in the start of the throttle position range. I've had it ever since I added the Hindle Exhaust and Fuel controller, but have tried every map in the book with the same result.
Thanks again!
I would say that not having to worry about the tors kicking in and making your sled roll down the steepest hill you have ever climbed is a huge benefit.
I did not disconnect the tors before it started acting up.
For trail riding, keep the tors. For mountain riding.. I would consider getting rid of it, and use a tether instead.
revster
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I had my first run in with TORS this winter. After rolling my sled I fired it up and the sled was flashing a code and acting up. I got my code book and much to my relief all I had to do was clean the snow out of the throttle and it was good to go. I'm the first to by-pass something on my sled if I feel it might get in my way.... ie I have no kill switch, tether only. So my TORS is still hooked up for now, till it gives me a reason to ditch it.
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