Caliper movement /tunnel flexing?

[hellflyer]

Yes and no! When I took it apart last year to check it the rotor was loose. After reassembly it was tight against the C- clip dew to the tunnel wanting to spread everything and keep it all tight. After a couple thousand km the rotor was loose again. So the wedge keeps the bearing from slipping but I think the tunnel flex cause it to move a bit creating rotor clearance! I'll take that over a spun shaft anyway.

 

[Phatboyc]

Interesting.

 

[SPM]

Yes and no! When I took it apart last year to check it the rotor was loose. After reassembly it was tight against the C- clip dew to the tunnel wanting to spread everything and keep it all tight. After a couple thousand km the rotor was loose again. So the wedge keeps the bearing from slipping but I think the tunnel flex cause it to move a bit creating rotor clearance! I'll take that over a spun shaft anyway.

Agreed, but the rattle gets annoying. I'm tempted to move the wedge out of the shaft slightly to maybe expand the spline a wee bit and take up some clearance but still remain free.

 

[NYTurbo]

Shim it

 

[hellflyer]

Agreed, but the rattle gets annoying. I'm tempted to move the wedge out of the shaft slightly to maybe expand the spline a wee bit and take up some clearance but still remain free.

I agree! It's annoying, but now that I know where the noise is coming from I'm relieved. All kinds of failures where going through my mind when I first heard it!
Maybe a thin O-ring between the c clip and rotor would work?

 

[Turboflash]

For guys that didn't like that noise, I did find an o-ring that fit nicely up against the rotor to dampen the sound, and still not interfere with centering.

 

[jonlafon1]

IMO this brake assembly wobble can be caused from the BOP wedge and not turning track while tightening.. Also the skid pulled and the brake should be split when installing brake/bearing back onto shaft. Makes it much easier to square up and fully seat the bearing properly on shaft. If you have a tighter shaft to bearing measurement its even more critical as its a tighter fit to get the brake half and bearing on the shaft square while tightening 3 bolts that holds brake to tunnel. I had this issue 2 years ago on a 17 6000 cat with a worn shaft.. Also bearing mount makes this bearing being squarely mounted even more critical as it dries and if it wobbles your in for more fun!

 

[RIKMAN]

For you guys using the shaft saver, torque it down with the top calliper bolt removed to square the bearing on shaft. You will notice a space between the top bolt hole of the calliper/bearing housing and the tunnel. Fill the space with an aluminum spacer to keep the housings square to the shaft and you will eliminate that tunnel wobble/flex when locking down your bearing. Done this to both my Winders and a few Vipers and problem solved.

 

[RIKMAN]

Here’s a pic of spacer, machined and pressed in…

 

[Janne339]

For you guys using the shaft saver, torque it down with the top calliper bolt removed to square the bearing on shaft. You will notice a space between the top bolt hole of the calliper/bearing housing and the tunnel. Fill the space with an aluminum spacer to keep the housings square to the shaft and you will eliminate that tunnel wobble/flex when locking down your bearing. Done this to both my Winders and a few Vipers and problem solved.

Interesting observations. How thick spacer did you need?

 

[RIKMAN]

Interesting observations. How thick spacer did you need?

Roughly 2mm…

 

[Janne339]

Roughly 2mm…

Thanks!
I gonna check this on my sled too! 2 mm is much..

 

[SPM]

I agree! It's annoying, but now that I know where the noise is coming from I'm relieved. All kinds of failures where going through my mind when I first heard it!
Maybe a thin O-ring between the c clip and rotor would work?

The O-ring option crossed my mind or thin plastic shim.
The noise showed up after I installed the warranted drive and bearing with wedge. The spline clearance seems to be plenty but end play seems good.

 

[cannondale27]

Roughly 2mm…

I hate saying this because it obviously worked for you. But the caliper bolt lugs are machined on the face. I would believe the Caliper is then mounted on those machined points and bearing side is machined. I find it very hard to believe that the Caliper could be machined that far off. You guys are leaving the upper suspension mounting shaft in the tunnel when doing this? With it or suspension removed on a XTX the tunnel will for sure flex out at bottom. That would account for the 2mm at top bolt of Caliper.

 

[RIKMAN]

I hate saying this because it obviously worked for you. But the caliper bolt lugs are machined on the face. I would believe the Caliper is then mounted on those machined points and bearing side is machined. I find it very hard to believe that the Caliper could be machined that far off. You guys are leaving the upper suspension mounting shaft in the tunnel when doing this? With it or suspension removed on a XTX the tunnel will for sure flex out at bottom. That would account for the 2mm at top bolt of Caliper.

Cannondale, yes i keep the front cross shaft bolted in place with suspension in and track loose.
You're right about the housing lugs being machined, it's the tunnel itself that's not square verticaly to the driveshaft. The easiest way to see if you need a spacer behind the top lug is to loosen the track, back the top housing bolt out and then torque down the shaft saver wile rotating the track. If the top lug is not moving away from the tunnel, then you're fine. If the housing would of been mounted square to the shaft from factory, , you wouldnt experience caliper movement/tunnel flexing when locking the bearing down. I really think this ''out of square'' is a major part of the driveshaft wear alongside bearing spin.