Firecatdude
Extreme
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- 2017 ZR 9000 LTD
Ok I’ve put heat to the bearing housing like I read in other posts but I still can’t get the bearing/shaft to come out. It was half way out and then when I was hitting it it somehow bounced back in. What temp are you guys heating the housing up to? Seems like my bearing is getting just as hot as the housing when checking with my temp gun therefore the fit would still be tight. I try to keep the heat away from the bearing but it still seems to heat up at pretty much the same rate. Maybe my heat gun doesn’t make enough heat to quickly heat up the housing before it heat soaks the bearing. I have tried at least 8 times and now I can’t even get the bearing to move at all. Any help would be appreciate. This is clutch side. Thanks
Last edited:
STAIN
Lifetime Member
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Take the brace off and press it out. It doesn't take very long to take the whole brace off.
With the brace in hand, you can clean it up and/or paint it if you like.
With the brace in hand, you can clean it up and/or paint it if you like.
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
Heat gun won’t heat up fast enough, you end up transferring heat to the bearing as well which defeats what your trying to accomplish
FJRwithSkis
Veteran
I couldn't function without my bush button Mapp gas.
Firecatdude
Extreme
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- NW Ontario
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- Snowmobile
- 2017 ZR 9000 LTD
I looked at that. Does the belt guard need to be removed too because it is riveted partially?Take the brace off and press it out. It doesn't take very long to take the whole brace off.
With the brace in hand, you can clean it up and/or paint it if you like.
Firecatdude
Extreme
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Would a plumbing propane torch work? ThanksI couldn't function without my bush button Mapp gas.
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
Yes that’s what I use.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
The guard needs to come off, it real easy just drill out those two rivets. Unbolt the brace like Stain said and I agree it makes it a lot easier to press off and on the bearing. Just makes it an neater job.I looked at that. Does the belt guard need to be removed too because it is riveted partially?
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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Ok I’ve put heat to the bearing housing like I read in other posts but I still can’t get the bearing/shaft to come out. It was half way out and then when I was hitting it it somehow bounced back in. What temp are you guys heating the housing up to? Seems like my bearing is getting just as hot as the housing when checking with my temp gun therefore the fit would still be tight. I try to keep the heat away from the bearing but it still seems to heat up at pretty much the same rate. Maybe my heat gun doesn’t make enough heat to quickly heat up the housing before it heat soaks the bearing. I have tried at least 8 times and now I can’t even get the bearing to move at all. Any help would be appreciate. This is clutch side. Thanks
I have read all the comments and they are valid.
When i changed my bearings I heated the housing up with heat gun on the clutch side and drove the shaft out, hitting it on the chaincase side (with a block of wood to protect the end of the shaft.).
To reinstall i pressed the bearing onto the shaft then fed the jack shaft through the housing to the chain case bearing. I also heated up the housing to make it easier to install. It went back in without too much trouble.
Came out no problem. I was surprised how easy it came out actually.
I can only assume that you are changing the bearings so heating it and damaging the bearing should not be a concern.
MS
stgdz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Upstater57
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I think that video covers it nicely.
SAB1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I must be missing something…..not seeing a video Link here….but would like to see.I think that video covers it nicely.
RobX-1
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Try clicking on this link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gP0UFZEy2s
Otherwise, copy and paste this into your browser but then add the www. to it: youtube.com/watch?v=6gP0UFZEy2s
Could be a browser setting that is preventing you from seeing the embedded video so hopefully either of these options allows you to view the video.
Otherwise, copy and paste this into your browser but then add the www. to it: youtube.com/watch?v=6gP0UFZEy2s
Could be a browser setting that is preventing you from seeing the embedded video so hopefully either of these options allows you to view the video.
InRBigness
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Its easier if its off, but I have done mine a few times without removing it. Easy to press out once brace is removed.I looked at that. Does the belt guard need to be removed too because it is riveted partially?
SAB1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
- Messages
- 545
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- Tuftonboro NH
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- 2017 Sidewinder LTX SE
2010 Vector GT
2006 Apex
Got it. Thx!
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