PTO stub shaft bearing

When would the recommended interval be to change this bearing? I changed every bearing on the sled except this one last year with 9,300km on the sled to SKF just for a piece of mind as I often have to travel 5 hours to snow so didn’t want any rides cut short. I also changed my main chain, and gears in the chaincase as it was pretty stretched.

Debating whether I should change this bearing, have 12,200km in the sled now.

For piece of mind, you can always pull off the stub shaft assembly off the motor and feel the bearing.
MS
 
Based on the fact that the seal was not leaking, the outside of the bearing was dry, and the engine only has 5100 miles on it, I re-used the seal as it appeared in like-new condition with good contact around the shaft. I was able to use the primary clutch bolt screwed into the stub and create a slide hammer to get the stub assy out. When doing so, the seal gets forced up onto the larger diameter of the shaft which has a shoulder that pulls the seal out as the whole assy comes out. It worked slick. When I put the assy back in, I lubricated the edge of the seal so it would easily go back into the opening in the case where it belongs. Again, that worked well. Once I oriented the splines correctly, the whole assy slid right in to where the seal edge was contacting the opening in the case where it belongs. (I had put the whole assy in a freezer prior to installing to make it easier to get it in). As the 4 bolts are tightened to, that presses the seal back into place. Worked slick.

So how did you hold the oil seal on the shaft? If you pushed the stub shaft into position that oil seal would likely not seat in the casing. And Would be pushing the seal off the machined surface. There should be about .625” between bearing and seal. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am in the process of doing this now also.
 
Lucky the puller didnt get stuck. Had the same issue with mine last year. It wasnt fun. Sounded like a gun shot when it came off .
MS
Same here scared the #*$&@ out of me..lol
I ended up pumping grease in the hole to finally getting er off
 
So how did you hold the oil seal on the shaft? If you pushed the stub shaft into position that oil seal would likely not seat in the casing. And Would be pushing the seal off the machined surface. There should be about .625” between bearing and seal. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am in the process of doing this now also.
Seal is captured on stub by a larger diameter that it can't go past, and the bearing. The way the housing is designed, it will press the seal back into the opening in the case when you tighten the 4 outer bolts. If you do a little measuring while you have it out, you'll see that if the housing seats correctly, the seal has to be pressed back into the case. I lubricated the outer diameter of the seal to make sure it slid into the case opening without scuffing or cutting it.
 
Seal is captured on stub by a larger diameter that it can't go past, and the bearing. The way the housing is designed, it will press the seal back into the opening in the case when you tighten the 4 outer bolts. If you do a little measuring while you have it out, you'll see that if the housing seats correctly, the seal has to be pressed back into the case. I lubricated the outer diameter of the seal to make sure it slid into the case opening without scuffing or cutting it.
Will check tonight.
Seal is captured on stub by a larger diameter that it can't go past, and the bearing. The way the housing is designed, it will press the seal back into the opening in the case when you tighten the 4 outer bolts. If you do a little measuring while you have it out, you'll see that if the housing seats correctly, the seal has to be pressed back into the case. I lubricated the outer diameter of the seal to make sure it slid into the case opening without scuffing or cutting it.
 


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