hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
I've got some trouble with my idle on my boosted Apex. It is a 2006 with a Boondocker Turbo Kit. I'm running 2 blowoff valves and have smoke tested the motor under pressure looking for a vacuum leak. I found a pinhole in the oneway check valve next to the map sensor and replaced it. Once replaced I couldn't find any leaks anywhere.
So, the sled idles at 25-2800 now when cold and reads pretty high on the AFR (18 or so). As soon as you come off of that high idle it settles down into the correct range, 12-13. When warm, it will come down off of that high idle but as soon as it does the AFR skyrockets and the sled dies. Losing fuel?
Can you adjust the idle/air mixture on these sleds? I'm showing no engine codes. Unfortunately like a moron I did turn the plastic knob on the side of the idle/air "motor" to see if I could change anything and didn't mark where it was. What does that knob do exactly and what kind of fix do you guys have for me?
So, the sled idles at 25-2800 now when cold and reads pretty high on the AFR (18 or so). As soon as you come off of that high idle it settles down into the correct range, 12-13. When warm, it will come down off of that high idle but as soon as it does the AFR skyrockets and the sled dies. Losing fuel?
Can you adjust the idle/air mixture on these sleds? I'm showing no engine codes. Unfortunately like a moron I did turn the plastic knob on the side of the idle/air "motor" to see if I could change anything and didn't mark where it was. What does that knob do exactly and what kind of fix do you guys have for me?
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
hobbes said:
What are your fuel controller settings, they may need to be richened up.
WesG
Extreme
TPS/ idle setup
I would check your tps values. By moving the black knob, it can alter the tps/idle setup. It takes abit of time to setup the idle from scatch. I did the same thing. Played with the knob/and throttle stop trying to increase my idle rpm and ended up taking about 2 hours to get the dern thing setup properly again... I would go through all the idle circuit stuff. Throttle stop on the throttlebodies, idle set knob, TPS.
I would check your tps values. By moving the black knob, it can alter the tps/idle setup. It takes abit of time to setup the idle from scatch. I did the same thing. Played with the knob/and throttle stop trying to increase my idle rpm and ended up taking about 2 hours to get the dern thing setup properly again... I would go through all the idle circuit stuff. Throttle stop on the throttlebodies, idle set knob, TPS.
hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
I checked the tps values out. .6 at closed throttle and 3.9 at WOT. Is that close enough at WOT, I read somewhere it is supposed to be 4.0-5.0?
So what does this plastic knob on the rail do then? In = rich, out = lean???
So what does this plastic knob on the rail do then? In = rich, out = lean???
WesG
Extreme
Settings
I set the tps through the diagnostics on the yami guage pod. It should be 15-18closed 95-100 open. If either end is way out and you cannot get it there by moving the tps, the tps is toast(I don't think this is the case, but you never know). The black knob is an idle set speed adjustment but I found it was only for fine tuning. Turn it in and more rpm, out less rpm. The balance between the black knob, the throttle stop on the cable and the tps is fairly fine. Do you have the shop manual? Also don't try to set this up when the sled is cold b/c you will get pissed off trying to get it right. I tried to get my idle up and ended up stopping the throttle too high and fighting to set up the idle circuit with the butterflys too far open. Do you have good vac at idle? like 4-5" when cold and 7-8" when warm?
I set the tps through the diagnostics on the yami guage pod. It should be 15-18closed 95-100 open. If either end is way out and you cannot get it there by moving the tps, the tps is toast(I don't think this is the case, but you never know). The black knob is an idle set speed adjustment but I found it was only for fine tuning. Turn it in and more rpm, out less rpm. The balance between the black knob, the throttle stop on the cable and the tps is fairly fine. Do you have the shop manual? Also don't try to set this up when the sled is cold b/c you will get pissed off trying to get it right. I tried to get my idle up and ended up stopping the throttle too high and fighting to set up the idle circuit with the butterflys too far open. Do you have good vac at idle? like 4-5" when cold and 7-8" when warm?
hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
Well guys I'm stumped. The sled comes down off of the high idle now but won't idle at anything under 2500-3000 rpm. If you let off the throttle it dies instantly when warm. If you stay on the throttle and keep it at the 3000 rpm range it will run, but just barely. Slowly let the throttle out and bam, shuts down like it doesn't have any fuel. I need some help here, completely lost. Anyone??
hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
Entered the diagnostic mode and here is what I found.
6 codes = 13,14,15,30,81,84
I can't figure out how to delete them though, tried through the diagnostic code 62, no luck. WTF?
I am also getting a flashing engine light now with the code 20 displayed.
Which is that the atmospheric pressure and intake pressure voltages greatly differ.
I checked these values in diagnostic modes 02 and 03 and found that 8 and 92 are displayed respectively. Why so much difference? Where are these hoses that can be kinked or clogged?
Thanks in advance guys, leaving tomorrow for a trip out west and it looks like I'll be leaving with a dead sled, not fun.
6 codes = 13,14,15,30,81,84
I can't figure out how to delete them though, tried through the diagnostic code 62, no luck. WTF?
I am also getting a flashing engine light now with the code 20 displayed.
Which is that the atmospheric pressure and intake pressure voltages greatly differ.
I checked these values in diagnostic modes 02 and 03 and found that 8 and 92 are displayed respectively. Why so much difference? Where are these hoses that can be kinked or clogged?
Thanks in advance guys, leaving tomorrow for a trip out west and it looks like I'll be leaving with a dead sled, not fun.
Is this a new boosted sled or have you been boosted for awhile
hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
The sled has been boosted for most of its 1700 miles. I'm pretty new to boost though, I bought it used. I've had it out twice without many problems until this.
hobbes said:
First thing bypass tors, that will get rid of 84. In diagnostic mode 62, a simple off to on will erase codes. go into dianostic mode 1 and set the tps. it should be 15-18 at idle and wide open at 95-100. i believe atmospheric pressure hose goes into the throttle bodies. measure the intake air pressure sensor voltage at the coupler. meter to 20v dc. positive probe to pink/white wire. negative probe to black/blue. voltage should be 4.75 to 5.25 v. turn power on to read that. If no power bad wire, pins or malfunctioning ecu. Check the same the same 2 color wires on the atmospheric pressure sensor coupler. readings should be the same. You should just have a credit card distance between the throttle lever and the bar. Adjust throttle cable accordingly. Diagnostic modes 2 and 3 are your sensors. 2 being atmostpheric sensor and 3 being intake air pressure. 2 won't help you unless you have an atmostpheric guage laying around to compare what display says. in mode 3 crank the engine without starting it and see if it reads anything. code 30 is just a loss of oil pressure, check connections and wires. It's in front of the engine.
hobbes said:
Wow, very similar problems with mine, see posts,,,, http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
and http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
I still don't have my code 20 fixed but my a/f at idle is now down to 14~15.5 at idle, I'll have to update those posts and watch yours here. I'm hoping to swap out the ecu this week to see if that's the problem, next may be to pull off the fuel conroller temporarily to see if the error goes away.
Those codes may have been there for a while, when in diag 62 try pushing down on the hardmarmer button, left side of the handlebar, I think that's what clears the history, but it won't remove any ongoing codes.
hobbes
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 16
where do I find the atmospheric pressure sensor?
Got the codes cleared and they stay cleared other than the flashing 20 at startup. Thinking I've either got a bad atmos sensor or wire to it is rubbed through? Thanks for all the help guys!!
I'm going to run the TORS for this trip and then I'll bypass it and go with a tether when I get home.
Got the codes cleared and they stay cleared other than the flashing 20 at startup. Thinking I've either got a bad atmos sensor or wire to it is rubbed through? Thanks for all the help guys!!
I'm going to run the TORS for this trip and then I'll bypass it and go with a tether when I get home.
hobbes said:
It's under the airbox, by the ecu. looks just like the other sensor. If you look under the intercooler from the clutch side you'll see it front
WesG
Extreme
Atmospheric press. sensor
Infront of the oil tank on the clutch side. Just like the intake sensor except it does not have a hose connected to it. If you are using a pure logic/dobeck controller, you may have to unplug it completely and start the sled without it hooked in to clear the code 20. With the code 20 in, it will not idle worth sh!t. Fix that and go back through your idle setup and you should be good to go.
Infront of the oil tank on the clutch side. Just like the intake sensor except it does not have a hose connected to it. If you are using a pure logic/dobeck controller, you may have to unplug it completely and start the sled without it hooked in to clear the code 20. With the code 20 in, it will not idle worth sh!t. Fix that and go back through your idle setup and you should be good to go.
