stevenknapp
Extreme
I've seen it more than once. "Adjust preload of the rear shock so the top and bottom of the transfer rod gaps are the same".
Here's the problem. On my Rage I can't seem to do this. Even with the preload all the way down, even with my 225lb pushing on the rear grab-rail, straight down. I can compress the skid quite a bit, but the transfer rod gap is still mostly up top.
I know I want less weight transfer. And therefor I should narrow that top gap. But even with the rods adjusted to the limit, the big gap is there and I get tons of transfer.
Why is this? I figure something here is out of balance but what?
I was going to pull out some preload from the center shock. I *think* that's what I need to do to get some more ski pressure, lessen the push in corners a bit.
Here's the problem. On my Rage I can't seem to do this. Even with the preload all the way down, even with my 225lb pushing on the rear grab-rail, straight down. I can compress the skid quite a bit, but the transfer rod gap is still mostly up top.
I know I want less weight transfer. And therefor I should narrow that top gap. But even with the rods adjusted to the limit, the big gap is there and I get tons of transfer.
Why is this? I figure something here is out of balance but what?
I was going to pull out some preload from the center shock. I *think* that's what I need to do to get some more ski pressure, lessen the push in corners a bit.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
50/50 rod gap won't affect transfer. Its the balance between the position of the transfer rod nuts and the length of the limiter straps. Tighten the limiter straps to reduce transfer. You might want to reduce the center spring preload a bit as well, but this won't affect transfer much since when you are on the gas, the force forward on the rails pulls the W-arm down anyways.
The way I usually recommend getting the transfer set right is to set the big nuts to their lowest position, then start cranking in on the straps. When it bites the snow as hard as you will ever want it to, stop tightening. Then use the big nuts to increase transfer easily when you need it.
The way I usually recommend getting the transfer set right is to set the big nuts to their lowest position, then start cranking in on the straps. When it bites the snow as hard as you will ever want it to, stop tightening. Then use the big nuts to increase transfer easily when you need it.
stevenknapp
Extreme
Sounds good. I've been somewhat paranoid about tightening the straps as I've heard some stories about them making the sled heavy and ride horrid. That and they would be a PITA to adjust trailside. 
I dropped the nuts to min transfer. I tightened the straps 3mm more, and let off the VERY tight center shock (was set to stock) ~1/4".We'll see how it rides!
Just the swaybar and carbides were a huge improvement!
Thanks for the advice!
I dropped the nuts to min transfer. I tightened the straps 3mm more, and let off the VERY tight center shock (was set to stock) ~1/4".We'll see how it rides!
Just the swaybar and carbides were a huge improvement!
Thanks for the advice!
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah, well suspension adjustment is an exercise in compromise. You have to set everything just right so that it rides closest to the way that *you* like it. Fortunately, when you don't want it to steer like a bulldozer, just raise the big nuts up a bit. Hand adjust quick-nuts (available as an OEM accessory) make this an easy and quick adjustment.stevenknapp said:
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
One of the coolest things I ever saw on a sled was the limiter strap adjustment knob on the ZR Cats of the late 90's early 00's. I wish another OEM (Yamaha would be a great choice) would put this on a knob in front of the handlebars, or better yet figure out a way to make it like the electronic shock adjustment. With changing trail conditions throughout the day it would be nice to be able to adjust both ski pressure and to some extent weight transfer from the seat.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
That would be cool QC. 
