Took the sled out yesterday for the first full ride of the season....
First off got the M7 with a 162x16 Maverick.... holy does it hook up!
But I just couldn't get the sled to 10500.... I put it away for the summer with fogging oil and started it up with a new oil change.... but it just seems a bit sluggish.
With the new track, do you think the clutching might need some adjustments?
I also cleaned the plugs and coils, and put some dielectric grease in.... just didn't seem to help....
Let me know if you have any ideas...
First off got the M7 with a 162x16 Maverick.... holy does it hook up!
But I just couldn't get the sled to 10500.... I put it away for the summer with fogging oil and started it up with a new oil change.... but it just seems a bit sluggish.
With the new track, do you think the clutching might need some adjustments?
I also cleaned the plugs and coils, and put some dielectric grease in.... just didn't seem to help....
Let me know if you have any ideas...
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Coldwater, it sounds like you have a great setup!
RPM's huh?? You know what I'm going to say before I say it, right?
Get yourself a shock wave adjustable helix and take some weight off your primary weights. You may even want to go to a stronger primary spring because it makes your engine RPMs go higher before it shifts (collapses). A stronger primary spring also lets you throw more weight at your primary clutch to load the motor. I even add three spring shims to the O/S/O primary spring to make the spring even stronger. You may want to consider slightly larger rollers too (I went from 14.5 to 15mm) to make my clutch weights have less effect allowing me to pull more clutch weight. Also, winding your secondary up a bit from 70 degrees to 80 degrees will give you some more RPM too.
My heavy hitters went from very heavily loaded to darn near empty to be able to pull 10,500 at elevation with the bigger heavier track.
Did you change your gearing with the track change? If no, you might want to consider it. I don't know your elevation but, you should be in the vicinity of 20 x 40, 19 x 40 gearing range with a 16 x 162" track. I have 20 x 42 now with mine.
Good luck
Frosty
RPM's huh?? You know what I'm going to say before I say it, right?
Get yourself a shock wave adjustable helix and take some weight off your primary weights. You may even want to go to a stronger primary spring because it makes your engine RPMs go higher before it shifts (collapses). A stronger primary spring also lets you throw more weight at your primary clutch to load the motor. I even add three spring shims to the O/S/O primary spring to make the spring even stronger. You may want to consider slightly larger rollers too (I went from 14.5 to 15mm) to make my clutch weights have less effect allowing me to pull more clutch weight. Also, winding your secondary up a bit from 70 degrees to 80 degrees will give you some more RPM too.
My heavy hitters went from very heavily loaded to darn near empty to be able to pull 10,500 at elevation with the bigger heavier track.
Did you change your gearing with the track change? If no, you might want to consider it. I don't know your elevation but, you should be in the vicinity of 20 x 40, 19 x 40 gearing range with a 16 x 162" track. I have 20 x 42 now with mine.
Good luck
Frosty
Thanks for the advice Frostbite.... I have already geared to 20/42 which I am very thankful for especially with this big track. I'll turn that secondary spring to 80 and see how much that helps.... otherwise I think I'm gonna look into the heavy hitter and a new helix like you said. Any advice on where to start looking for parts? Anyone have any they want to unload?
Another questions: do the velocity rings bring up your RPMS significantly? I think those might be on the wish list too....
Another questions: do the velocity rings bring up your RPMS significantly? I think those might be on the wish list too....
freelheeler
Pro
I'm in the same boat trying to get the RPM's up. i tackled the clutching first, realizing it needer to be done however the jetting maybe my bigger problem. Here's what i've done
05 RX1 clutching and spring- no change
removed all weight- no change
shockwave helix- no change
gearing- no change
it's seems my problem lies in the carbs and the sled seems to be running lean and not getting enough juice to produce hp. it make sense based on the increased air flow caused by new airbox mod and under tunnel exhaust. i also have some burbles and have posted a topic for information on tuning that issue.
so here's my plan for 7000-10000
130 to 135 jets
needle height 1 from the top
bowl heights- still a mystery
The idea of more mass in the primary seems like the way to go but i need to get mine at least in the ball park and fine tune from there.
goodluck
05 RX1 clutching and spring- no change
removed all weight- no change
shockwave helix- no change
gearing- no change
it's seems my problem lies in the carbs and the sled seems to be running lean and not getting enough juice to produce hp. it make sense based on the increased air flow caused by new airbox mod and under tunnel exhaust. i also have some burbles and have posted a topic for information on tuning that issue.
so here's my plan for 7000-10000
130 to 135 jets
needle height 1 from the top
bowl heights- still a mystery
The idea of more mass in the primary seems like the way to go but i need to get mine at least in the ball park and fine tune from there.
goodluck
Just a general note here. By in large you should never tune your RPM's with your seondary clutch. Get things right in the primary first then fine tune the secondary. The yami 4 stroke is actually a pretty easy sled to clutch just pull some weight from your primary to start and see how that goes. Normally aspirated with a 162 and 19 42 gearing I think my heavy hitters were in the 56-58 gram range with quite a bit of it in the mid and heel.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
I am already confident that my jetting is fine... I am running a single exhaust with the ECP kit, and this setup ran great last year....
I will start looking today for the parts to get an 05 setup or the heavy hitters...
I also wanted to mention that the temp the other day was in the high 30's and might have even touched 40 in the afternoon.... which could have also contributed to the sluggishness of the engine....
Regardless on an open stretch I was happy to see my RPMS peak over 9 grand.... so something has to change...
I will start looking today for the parts to get an 05 setup or the heavy hitters...
I also wanted to mention that the temp the other day was in the high 30's and might have even touched 40 in the afternoon.... which could have also contributed to the sluggishness of the engine....
Regardless on an open stretch I was happy to see my RPMS peak over 9 grand.... so something has to change...
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Yup, your primary weights are too heavy or your primary spring is too weak now with the new added rotatiing mass of the longer heavier track (and the wet heavy snow). You might not be as far off as you think when you are in fluffy powder?
Yes, it's true secondary adjustments are meant for fine tuning once you get your primary close. Actually secondary adjustments are more suited for condition changes than overall clutching changes.
Good luck
Frosty
Yes, it's true secondary adjustments are meant for fine tuning once you get your primary close. Actually secondary adjustments are more suited for condition changes than overall clutching changes.
Good luck
Frosty
Jabber
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2005
- Messages
- 120
- Location
- Penticton B.C.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder mtn 162
I have had the same problem with rpm and hlls. I ran the 05 clutching with no rivets in the weights. I could hit the rev limiter no prob, but still no help with rpm on the hills. Always down around 9500. The fix was a TEAM SECONDARY with dual angle helix. I am running 54/38. Great backshift and 10800 on the hills. Now I can add rivets to my weights for a little more aggesive shift and a little less top rpm. By the way I ride between 5-8000 feet.
After reading around and asking a few people, I wanted to make sure and post what my plans are to get my sled back where I want it. I am going to go with a shockwave helix mainly to be able to adjust to snow conditions. My riding is in coastal mountains and snow conditions can go from light fluff to wet cement in hours... I am confident that the shockwave helix will allow me to find my RPM's regardless of the snow. Second I am going to go with the Supertip arms and weights... mainly I am going with these again for adjust-ability and tuning purposes.
If anyone has anymore input to help me get where I want I am all ears.....
If anyone has anymore input to help me get where I want I am all ears.....
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
To give you an example. My Heavy Hiters were loaded to 65 grams and man did they load the motor and pulled like a freight train on the trail! Although when climbing they were dropping me into the low to mid 9,000 RPM range.
With the 162 Camo extreme I have had to drop my clutch weights even more to 53.1 now to be able to pull (hopefully, I haven't tried it yet) 10,500+ while climbing. Now I will have to have the Shockwave turned out I'm guessing two full turns to keep off the rev limiter in the lower elevations. The lighter your flyweights, the more adjustment you'll have out of your Shockwave. The ability of strong primary springs to support more flyweight weight is why I use the strongest primary spring I can find. Some call that weird but, it works for me.
Merry Christmas
Frosty
With the 162 Camo extreme I have had to drop my clutch weights even more to 53.1 now to be able to pull (hopefully, I haven't tried it yet) 10,500+ while climbing. Now I will have to have the Shockwave turned out I'm guessing two full turns to keep off the rev limiter in the lower elevations. The lighter your flyweights, the more adjustment you'll have out of your Shockwave. The ability of strong primary springs to support more flyweight weight is why I use the strongest primary spring I can find. Some call that weird but, it works for me.
Merry Christmas
Frosty
