Chaincase Oil Color

[FrozenTows4]

Does your chaincase oil, as viewed through the sight glass, look like oil or a milkshake?
Mine looks like a milkshake.
Changed oil, less than 700 miles ago, using a fluid extractor.
Filled to just over the sight glass. Need to tip sled to see oil line.

After sitting over night it looks like a dark milkshake.
After a 100+ mile ride it looks like a pretty light milkshake.

Sled has just under 5200 miles now.
Seals going out? Oil just getting whipped into a froth from condensation?
Sled is not stored in a heated garage. Temperatures have fluctuated, many times, +40f to -5f since change.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Does your chaincase oil, as viewed through the sight glass, look like oil or a milkshake?
Mine looks like a milkshake.
Changed oil, less than 700 miles ago, using a fluid extractor.
Filled to just over the sight glass. Need to tip sled to see oil line.

After sitting over night it looks like a dark milkshake.
After a 100+ mile ride it looks like a pretty light milkshake.

Sled has just under 5200 miles now.
Seals going out? Oil just getting whipped into a froth from condensation?
Sled is not stored in a heated garage. Temperatures have fluctuated, many times, +40f to -5f since change.

Yea that’s condensation in yer oil. I have seen it before and it’s not a huge deal as long as you change it yearly. I personally wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[Sevey]

After pulling my SW chaincase apart and looking at it closely, I would be concerned with two things. 1) sucking it out with an extractor would not get right to the bottom of the chaincase, and 2) the sludge in the bottom of these cases is terrible. Popping the cover off and really wiping it out ensures the fine metallic particles are out.

As for moisture, after a really good run for a day most of the moisture that has accumulated should vent out.
MS

 

[FrozenTows4]

Follow up on this milky chain case oil saga.
I know, it's a 2 stroke. Thought some might be interested...



















Rinsed out, the case & chain, with ProLong SLP100, which is a super lubricant/water displacer. Used compressed air to evacuate contaminates & residual solvent.



Be sure to secure the case half with safety wires. Don't want to pull on the oil lines which remain connected during the process.











Unless I'm missing something, I noticed virtually no wear to the chain, sprocket, and tensioner. Nicely done Arctic!

I did not remove the sprockets. But the visible bearings appeared virtually new at 5100 miles on them.



Cleaned out the case threaded mounts with compressed air. Applied a generous amount of LocTite Blue and installed.







Sequentially, and gradually, torqued the fasteners to 96 inch pounds. Then brought them to 125 inch pounds which is all I was comfortable with.



Manual says 144 inch pounds, or 12ftlbs, which is crazy in my opinion.

The old style self tapping fasteners would never hold that. I always used 96 inch pounds and called it good.

I went to 125 inch pounds, this time, since the case was actually threaded. Still seemed a bit much. 96 inch pounds will be the norm next time as in the past.



I fill the case to above the sight glass. Even at that, the oil disappears from the sight glass when the track is spinning.

That chain carries a lot of oil. Want to make sure enough gets up to the jack shaft bearing.



Now, time will tell if the moisture returns.



My theory is since the chain case is filled somewhere between 1/8 - 1/4 full, that leaves a lot of air space to develop condensation/frost.

Engine warms everything up, frost melts, and mixes water with the oil.

Early season we saw 40 degrees & rain to 0 degrees days apart.

Or my seals are shot and my couple slush rides drew in water.

I'm leaning towards the extreme temperature and humidity swings.

Machines are stored in an aluminum clam shell enclosed trailer. Trailer does not leak. But I have seen it "rain" inside from condensation.



We'll see what it looks like in the next 1000 miles.

 

[Sevey]

That is a lot of moisture.

Years ago i had the brilliant idea to place a space heater to warm the engine for an hour or more, prior to a ride. What i found in the spring was a chain case full of moisture and some corrosion colouring the oil rust red. That was on a nytro that didn’t have an exhaust next to the case creating some heat. Needless to say i stopped doing that. God knows the moisture i created inside the engine, but it aleast would have a chance to evaporate any moisture.

Things look good in your case, nothing seems rusted. This must be due to storage. I keep my sled in my trailer at times but it has 4 vents - one on each corner. It’s far from perfect but if there is moisture in side it will dry out quite well. I wonder if yours keeps things too clammy and the moisture builds up in the closed chain case.

If - during the winter the trailer is the primary storage local, dragging a skid full of snow inside the box, week in and out, letting it melt slowly will be the kiss of death for corrosion and condensation build up.
MS