Changing Track and Top Gear. What else to replace in the process

[Yama4stroke]

Changing the track and top gear over the next couple weeks on my 2015 STX-DX 141 w/ 7500ish miles. What should I be replacing while I have it apart?

Should I just order a new Yamaha top gear or is there a better replacement out there? Factory one has made it 7500ish miles but I know I'm way overdue for a problem. I thought I remember talk of a better aftermarket option or a member who sold them or replaced the bushing or exchanged them or something like that. If not I'll just order a new one from Port

I believe there are 4 bearings that I should be replacing while I have it apart. The upper and lower chain case bearings, the drive axle bearing in the brake caliper and the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary. I have never greased any of these bearings. Chaincase oil changed at 2500mi and 5000mi.

For the chaincase I'm planning to use the FAG and NTN bearings Mr. Sled posted in the "Busted Chaincase!!" thread unless someone has found something better in the 5 years since the thread was started.

Was planning to just order the Yamaha caliper (6009) and jackshaft (6206) bearing unless there is a suggested alternative or upgrade.

With the updated shaft in 16 it made research a little more difficult.

I have already replaced the shifting forks at 6000mi.

If there is a better option than what I proposed above let me know. If there is anything else I should be replacing in the process that I have missed let me know.

I appreciate any input.

 

[DennyTuna]

I would check for wear on your drive shaft, most likely it has worn. New shafts are about $330 and the newer batch seems to have better tolerances for fitment. You can also have the original welded and turned down as an option. With either option I would recommend a drive shaft saver from BOP. There are multiple threads on this problem, do a search and read up. Also the top gear for whatever reason is very pricey for a viper, you can buy just the bushing for under $10 but you'll need to press the old one out and press the new one in. Your on the right track with your sled maintenance.

 

[Pstn head]

Not sure if the Viper has the chain adjuster roller, if so weld the bolts and since in there change the pads the chains run against. Since you replaced the shift forks they should be fine but replace the spring on the shift fork since your in there. A little silicone around the sight glass won't hurt either, use the rtv sealant for gear oil. And replace the cover gasket.

 

[DennyTuna]

Good call Pstn head, Its the same, tore into a 14 Viper with 10,000 miles last weekend. The screws on the tensioner roller were starting to back out. Replacing everything you said above as well plus a new drive shaft and bearing.

 

[rlbock]

I would check for wear on your drive shaft, most likely it has worn. New shafts are about $330 and the newer batch seems to have better tolerances for fitment. You can also have the original welded and turned down as an option. With either option I would recommend a drive shaft saver from BOP. There are multiple threads on this problem, do a search and read up. Also the top gear for whatever reason is very pricey for a viper, you can buy just the bushing for under $10 but you'll need to press the old one out and press the new one in. Your on the right track with your sled maintenance.

This issue is a bigger problem then the upper reverse gear bushing wear. The fix for the track drive shaft wearing from inner race of bearing spinning is some 300.00 plus dollars and a lot of work

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Changing the track and top gear over the next couple weeks on my 2015 STX-DX 141 w/ 7500ish miles. What should I be replacing while I have it apart?

Should I just order a new Yamaha top gear or is there a better replacement out there? Factory one has made it 7500ish miles but I know I'm way overdue for a problem. I thought I remember talk of a better aftermarket option or a member who sold them or replaced the bushing or exchanged them or something like that. If not I'll just order a new one from Port

I believe there are 4 bearings that I should be replacing while I have it apart. The upper and lower chain case bearings, the drive axle bearing in the brake caliper and the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary. I have never greased any of these bearings. Chaincase oil changed at 2500mi and 5000mi.

For the chaincase I'm planning to use the FAG and NTN bearings Mr. Sled posted in the "Busted Chaincase!!" thread unless someone has found something better in the 5 years since the thread was started.

Was planning to just order the Yamaha caliper (6009) and jackshaft (6206) bearing unless there is a suggested alternative or upgrade.

With the updated shaft in 16 it made research a little more difficult.

I have already replaced the shifting forks at 6000mi.

If there is a better option than what I proposed above let me know. If there is anything else I should be replacing in the process that I have missed let me know.

I appreciate any input.

Another option for your disk brake side of lower driveshaft ,less cost than new shaft and includes a new upgraded slotted bearing.just had mine done.Franks motorcycles Essex Juntion Vt. 802-878-3930 service rep Kamran Pelkey if you send him your used lower shaft.Good luck

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

You can order your superbushing top gear from David Moegle a vendor on this site.Email is davidmoegle@gmail.com $165 plus shipping great vendor

 

[DennyTuna]

The

This issue is a bigger problem then the upper reverse gear bushing wear. The fix for the track drive shaft wearing from inner race of bearing spinning is some 300.00 plus dollars and a lot of work

The OP is doing a track change so his shaft will already be out, no better time then now to address the shaft wear .

 

[DennyTuna]

You can order your superbushing top gear from David Moegle a vendor on this site.Email is davidmoegle@gmail.com $165 plus shipping great vendor

The DMC gear is not yet available for the Viper. My group sent Dave 3 or 4 Viper gears for fitment and testing a few months back and last I spoke with him they were on test 5. He still wasn't comfortable with REV 5 to go to market. So not yet!

 

[Yama4stroke]

Started to tear into the sled last night. The top gear bushing looks a lot better than I was expecting for 7500ish miles. I wasn’t expecting there to be any of the coating left on the inside. I’ve always ran the chain on the loose side, about an extra 1/4 turn out. Gonna remove and inspect the drive axle tonight

 

[PAvector]

Jackshaft secondary bearing is not a standard 6202, the inner race is 2mm smaller standard. Can only get it from Yamaha.

 

[Kkurz]

Started to tear into the sled last night. The top gear bushing looks a lot better than I was expecting for 7500ish miles. I wasn’t expecting there to be any of the coating left on the inside. I’ve always ran the chain on the loose side, about an extra 1/4 turn out. Gonna remove and inspect the drive axle tonight
View attachment 157930

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The chain should 1.5 turns out! You're lucky you didn't have a failure in the case. This was a hot topic for quite a while, until it got worked out. Check in the FAQs.

 

[74Nitro]

Started to tear into the sled last night. The top gear bushing looks a lot better than I was expecting for 7500ish miles. I wasn’t expecting there to be any of the coating left on the inside. I’ve always ran the chain on the loose side, about an extra 1/4 turn out. Gonna remove and inspect the drive axle tonight
View attachment 157930

View attachment 157931

That bushing doesn't look very good to me. The only reason there is a 'ring' of teflon left in that area is because it is supported by the female gear.

 

[Kkurz]

74Nytro, I agree. Chain too tight. Lucky you caught it when you did Yama4stroke!

 

[cannondale27]

Yes you dodged a bullet. Any more wear and shaft would be ruined best case!