MAMILLA
Extreme
what have some of you guys done to make your stock nytro with 153 run at 8900 at a pull or somewhere close to that. Mine is an 09 and i run from 8100-8200 on a pull. can i adjust something or what. I run between 7500-10000 ft in northern utah. 
philsummers21
Expert
im running a GWG in the primary and AC yellow @ 1-0 in the secondary. Seems pretty good. I do have to loose a little wieght but im also running a 162 and 18-40 gearing.
MAMILLA
Extreme
IM RUNNING 19-40 GEARING ON THE 153 CHALLENGER. SO WHAT DOES THE STIIFER SPRING ADD COMPARED TO A LESS STIFER SPRING? AND THIS IS PROBABLY A DUMB ? BUT WHAT DOES GWG STAND FOR I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT CLUTCHESphilsummers21 said:
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
Green White Green
I think? a stiffer spring
has better back shift
and will help hold rpms higher?
someone that is clutch smart will most likely explain
I think? a stiffer spring
has better back shift
and will help hold rpms higher?
someone that is clutch smart will most likely explain
rideblue
Expert
You can try a white secondary spring @60 deg. like on the SE. that will hold RPMs more consistent on climbs and install 18 / 40 gearing.
I have had good luck with the stock G-W-G spring and rollers and grinding 8 to 10 grams off evenly along the whole length of the stock 8FS weights. At your elevation that will give some room to move some rivets around to fine tune.
I ride at 10,000 to 13,000 ft with most of the riding at 11,000 to 12,000. The stock 8FS is 66.5g and it seems like 57g to 58g is working good up here. RPMs on hills are 8600 - 8700. i have slowly been grinding some off of the middle and adding weight to the tip to keep off of the rev limiter on the roads. The bottom profile of the weight is starting to look like an 8FA.
I have tried the 8DJ and 8BF weights with 14.5mm rollers and G-P-G spring for the last few seasons. Those worked well for rpms on hills and engine was much more zippy but the belt would slip and get hot at slow speed in trees when riding just above engagement.
If you dont want to grind on your stock weights, you might want too check out the XTX weights. They look like same profile as the 8fs but much lighter.
hope this helps
I have had good luck with the stock G-W-G spring and rollers and grinding 8 to 10 grams off evenly along the whole length of the stock 8FS weights. At your elevation that will give some room to move some rivets around to fine tune.
I ride at 10,000 to 13,000 ft with most of the riding at 11,000 to 12,000. The stock 8FS is 66.5g and it seems like 57g to 58g is working good up here. RPMs on hills are 8600 - 8700. i have slowly been grinding some off of the middle and adding weight to the tip to keep off of the rev limiter on the roads. The bottom profile of the weight is starting to look like an 8FA.
I have tried the 8DJ and 8BF weights with 14.5mm rollers and G-P-G spring for the last few seasons. Those worked well for rpms on hills and engine was much more zippy but the belt would slip and get hot at slow speed in trees when riding just above engagement.
If you dont want to grind on your stock weights, you might want too check out the XTX weights. They look like same profile as the 8fs but much lighter.
hope this helps
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
Shoot for 8500-8600 rpm, 8900 is too high you will actually make less hp
