MEAT
Expert
I have performed an alignment 3 times with my new Sledpro bar and after each alignment I head out the driveway and the belt starts squeeling. The center to center is too close to each other every time. I cant see any damage to the bulk head ( I have not hit anything anyway ). Is it possible the engine mounts are oblonged or egg shaped ? What am I missing ?
LazyBastard
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MEAT
Expert
Not real far, but enough that the alignment bar wont slide over the shaft.
LazyBastard
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You sure that the belt isnt just too high in the secondary? Try removing shims.
MEAT
Expert
I just pulled the washers and am about to take it out but do you know what the part # for the belt woud be ?
LazyBastard
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You can call it an "8DN" belt. Any Yam dealer should have a bunch of them.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
there are three motor mount bolts that hold the engine in place, one long one that goes through the back and two short ones, one on each side at the front. loosen all three, set alignment, and then tighten bolts.if belt rides too high in secondary, it will squeel on primary shaft. remove washers from the three 8mm bolts on the back of secondary and re-install bolts. this will lower belt height.
rxrider
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good info grader
Adding info....
In the front of your motor, remove the two bolts holding the motor in place, one on each side of the motor, take a look inside the bolt hole and you will see a adjusting device, you will need a very large flat screwdriver or the special tool from Yamaha. Turning these two adjusters will move the front end of your engine from side to side while the rear end is fixed, thus changing the alignment of the motor. When 100 % aligned insert all bolts and tighten the motor down. Do a check on the offset, add remove shims if needed. If your center to center is too short, most likely your engine has moved back on the left/clutch side reducing C&C distance. With everything aligned and offset OK, check your drive belt ride height, spec is from 0,5 millimeter above the sheave edge down to 1,5 millimeter below sheave edge.
Happy tuning
rxrider
Adding info....
In the front of your motor, remove the two bolts holding the motor in place, one on each side of the motor, take a look inside the bolt hole and you will see a adjusting device, you will need a very large flat screwdriver or the special tool from Yamaha. Turning these two adjusters will move the front end of your engine from side to side while the rear end is fixed, thus changing the alignment of the motor. When 100 % aligned insert all bolts and tighten the motor down. Do a check on the offset, add remove shims if needed. If your center to center is too short, most likely your engine has moved back on the left/clutch side reducing C&C distance. With everything aligned and offset OK, check your drive belt ride height, spec is from 0,5 millimeter above the sheave edge down to 1,5 millimeter below sheave edge.
Happy tuning
rxrider
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Seems I have a clutch alignment problem also, just got my clutch alignment tool from Ulmer Racing and check my stock 03 rx1 and my turbo'd 03 rx1. My stock one seems to be perfect, providing I'm using the tool correctly, which I think I am. With this tool, I removed the secondary and place the tool on the center of the primary and the other end slips on the secondary jack shaft in which is perfect on the stock sled, but out by quite a bit on the turbo’d sled. I’m not sure if this was like that out of the factory or if the shop that originally installed the turbo may have loosened the mounts when they removed the head. I loosened the front bolts, which were tight and noticed that once that’s done, I can move the engine up and down, but not forward. From this post I take it that I have to loosen that rear mounting bolt too, then move the engine forward and tighten everything down, correct? Are the other adjustments (after the front bolts are off) to adjust the motor from side to side or are these part of the center to center adjustment too?
It looks like my offset on both machines is good, but I may have to check with Allen to make sure I’m using the tool properly.
It looks like my offset on both machines is good, but I may have to check with Allen to make sure I’m using the tool properly.
SnoWarrior
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rxrider is right. If you do not adjust the 2 front threaded bushings against the motor mounts after alignment, the motor could still move under tork. You should loosen the motor mount bolts, then set the back bushing as per service manual. Then set the 2 front bushings away from the motor. Do the alignment then adjust the bushings. They should be tight against the motor mounts before you tighten the bolts. If there is a space between the bushing collar and the mount, then even if the bolts are tight, the motor can still move, changing your settings. The bushings are like spacers, that when screwed in or out can move the front of the motor left or right.
rxrider
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SnoWarrior - 
right on the money
There is also an adjuster on the rear of the engine on the righthand side. This adjuster will let you move your engine to the left or right if your sheave offset is way off. To get to this adjuster you will have to take off the nut on the right hand side, it sits close to the chain case, on this on you will have to use the Yamaha adjustment tool or fabricate one yourself as the bolt will have to stay in place while adjusting.
There is no way of moving the engine back or forth. It can be moved from side to side to adjust offset, and it can be moved at the front while the back is fixed to adjust parallellism with the jack shaft.
right on the money There is also an adjuster on the rear of the engine on the righthand side. This adjuster will let you move your engine to the left or right if your sheave offset is way off. To get to this adjuster you will have to take off the nut on the right hand side, it sits close to the chain case, on this on you will have to use the Yamaha adjustment tool or fabricate one yourself as the bolt will have to stay in place while adjusting.
There is no way of moving the engine back or forth. It can be moved from side to side to adjust offset, and it can be moved at the front while the back is fixed to adjust parallellism with the jack shaft.
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
rxrider said:SnoWarrior -
There is no way of moving the engine back or forth. It can be moved from side to side to adjust offset, and it can be moved at the front while the back is fixed to adjust parallellism with the jack shaft.
So how is the center to center adjusted then if the engine won't move back and forth?
rxrider
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If the engine is aligned with the jackshaft and offset is within spec, the CC should be correct. If engine has moved to the left in the front while still fixed in the rear the CC will come off as CC is reduced. There is no adjustment back and forth, none that I'm aware of, I've done 4-5 engine removals an installs over the past 2 years.
How much off is your CC? Is it closer together than spec?
KnappAttack answered a question about CC out of spec in the following post
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... deflection
How much off is your CC? Is it closer together than spec?
KnappAttack answered a question about CC out of spec in the following post
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... deflection
SnoWarrior
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Just checked my Son's Warrior (05), CC was off, because clutches were not parallel. Being I allready had the battery holder out for oil change, I put the SledPro tool on and checked it. Lossened the back engine mount bolt, then 2 fronts. On the front I backed the adjusting collars back against the frame.. I used a pair of modified channel locks. (ground them down some to make the jaws thinner). Put the tool back on, had to lift the front of the motor slightly. Then tighten the back bolt to spec. Then check offset, parllell. Had to move the motor to the right a little.(that is why cc was off) Turned the adjusting collar on the left side out to get parallel. Then adjust the right side so it was snug against the motor, and tighten the 2 front bolts. Also lubed the jackshaft and speedo bearing. They were both dry, 1900 miles.
