I have a 07 rtx. I want to clean up the primary, without removing complete clutch. Can i remove cover bolts to get at inside, or remove main bolt? Is the spider threaded on or will it come off. Ive never opened up the clutch yet other than just blowing out every ride. Any info would be great before i get into it.Thanks.
Chasx7
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Do yourself a favor and spend 25.00 on a puller and simply pull your cluch off. Cleaning will be much easier. I have taken the clutch apart on the sled as you have mentioned. I found it easier to take it off for cleaning.
APEX 06
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Chasx7 said:Do yourself a favor and spend 25.00 on a puller and simply pull your cluch off. Cleaning will be much easier. I have taken the clutch apart on the sled as you have mentioned. I found it easier to take it off for cleaning.
X2 on the puller. For cleaning you could put it in the Dish washer, or us Hot water and dawn dish soap. To take off the cover remove the 6 screws VERY slowly. And then it will be off good time to put in new springs.
the kitchen
Expert
X3, remove the clutch and inspect the rollers, free movement on the weights, wear on the spider buttons and general grime. You can't clean properly while on the sled. I currently have mine off with binding issues. Too much belt dust packed in where the spider buttons slide. I made all my own tools to take this apart and will post pics at a later date for all to see the simplicity of the project.
Turk
Tech Advisor
Don,t use dish soap. It,s alkaline & will pit the aluminum. Blow everything out with compressed air & clean faces with a green scotchbrite pad.
the kitchen
Expert
Cleaning with air can work for a while but in time will need to be torn down. Here is why, The one on the left was blown out for years without being taken apart and cleaned until now. The one on the right has been blown out since 06 but I also polished the chanel that the spider buttons ride down. To have confidence that all components are working properly all internal parts should be removed, inspected and cleaned. This does not have to be done every year but if it is five + years old it realy should be cleaned right.
When you learn how easy this is to do, you will wonder why you havent done this before. Some of the tools are very costly so I made my own tools. I can post pics if you would like to see. Let me know how I can help.
When you learn how easy this is to do, you will wonder why you havent done this before. Some of the tools are very costly so I made my own tools. I can post pics if you would like to see. Let me know how I can help.
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cat hunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
the kitchen said:Cleaning with air can work for a while but in time will need to be torn down. Here is why, The one on the left was blown out for years without being taken apart and cleaned. The one on the right has been blown out since 06 but I also polished the chanel that the spider buttons ride down. To have confidence that all components are working properly all internal parts should be removed, inspected and cleaned. This does not have to be done every year but if it is five + years old it realy should be cleaned right.
When you learn how easy this is to do, you will wonder why you havent done this before. Some of the tools are very costly so I made my own tools. I can post pics if you would like to see. Let me know how I can help.
the kitchen
Expert
Here are a couple of tools that need to be made. A spanner wrench for the fixed sheave on the motor side, This is reverse thread. The second is a 4" peice of box iron that I knotched to fit the spider into and place that block into the vice. You will need to remove the front cover then place the clutch on the block in the vice, use the spanner wrench to remove the fixed sheave and the moveable sheave will slide off behind it. Do not loose the split ring at the base of the fixed sheave threads.
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the kitchen
Expert
the kitchen
Expert
Also remove the rollers from the spider and clean as most have rust on them and the weights do not like rolling over rust. I cleaned the inside of the rollers with emery cloth then pulled a small cloth back and forth through the center. If you choose to use 3 in 1 oil that will be fine but wipe clean as all parts must be dry when placed back.
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the kitchen
Expert
This is how it sets in the vice while removing the fixed sheave. This will be the only peace that is not marked with an X. The inner sheave, cover and spider all have an X and must stay lined up when placing back together. This is reverse thread. The inner sheave will slide off behind the fixed when removed. Remember to remove the split rings at the bottom of the threads.
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the kitchen
Expert
the kitchen
Expert
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
the kitchen said:Cleaning with air can work for a while but in time will need to be torn down. Here is why, The one on the left was blown out for years without being taken apart and cleaned until now. The one on the right has been blown out since 06 but I also polished the chanel that the spider buttons ride down. To have confidence that all components are working properly all internal parts should be removed, inspected and cleaned. This does not have to be done every year but if it is five + years old it realy should be cleaned right.
When you learn how easy this is to do, you will wonder why you havent done this before. Some of the tools are very costly so I made my own tools. I can post pics if you would like to see. Let me know how I can help.
I'm planning on making my own clutch dissassembly tools this offseason.
Yours are the first that I have seen that didn't require welding to build. Very cool. Looks like a drill press, hole saw, sawzall and a couple of taps and you're in business.
I just need to find out where to get a piece of 4" x 4" square tube. How thick is the wall on that piece of square tube that you used for the clutch holder?
Do you need to cut that circle into the center of the spanner? Does something on the back of the clutch interfere if it is not cut out?
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
the kitchen said:When completed torque at 85ft lbs then loosen and retorque at 45.
Looks like the factory manual spec's a different, higher torque. Do you torque yours differently?
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