

yamadoo
Yamadoo is a snowmobile ' aholic'.
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We need NosPRo, stingray719, YamahaTim, SRXSPEC and so many others to keep posting!!! We are all learning. I personally can't wait to see if my 2015 comes with the better performance they describe or do I order the parts and away we GO!!!!
THanks a ton.............NON of you post to much...........Information is always helpful it is the insulting and negative posts we don't need
Yamadoo
THanks a ton.............NON of you post to much...........Information is always helpful it is the insulting and negative posts we don't need
Yamadoo
I agree so long as it's factual and not just x2 x3 attaboy. The multi page threads make it so difficult to find anything meaningful sometimes.


YamahaTim
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Ya sometimes those big post's like my 8dn one was pretty big, a lot of info, but also a lot of BSing as well. And I'm sorry for that! I'm a joking kind of person so sometimes I go to far...lol...oh well I'm glad we helped and I also learned a lot as well! Fun fun!!
Great people on here and would be fun to get a bunch of us and get together for a ride!! Or grass drags, or like NOS maybe some tar racing, I'm pumped I want to go watch him!!
And again I talked a lot about the clutch! Lol...

Great people on here and would be fun to get a bunch of us and get together for a ride!! Or grass drags, or like NOS maybe some tar racing, I'm pumped I want to go watch him!!

And again I talked a lot about the clutch! Lol...

stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
TD Max said:I agree so long as it's factual and not just x2 x3 attaboy. The multi page threads make it so difficult to find anything meaningful sometimes.
x2

stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
YamahaTim said:Ya sometimes those big post's like my 8dn one was pretty big, a lot of info, but also a lot of BSing as well. And I'm sorry for that! I'm a joking kind of person so sometimes I go to far...lol...oh well I'm glad we helped and I also learned a lot as well! Fun fun!!![]()
Great people on here and would be fun to get a bunch of us and get together for a ride!! Or grass drags, or like NOS maybe some tar racing, I'm pumped I want to go watch him!!![]()
And again I talked a lot about the clutch! Lol...![]()
Your 8DN post is what had me looking at the belt and digging further for a fix. My spring and shim fix might not have happened without YOUR post.....so thanks! And NO it was not too long, the post that is.

kviper
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A couple more thing's to get a little more technical on the 101 list. An agressive weight profile will generate more centrifugal force allowing for lighter total weight. This is easier to back shift and makes the motor more responsive. Also usually harder to maintain good tip weight and you need tip weight to keep the clutch shifting near top end. In most agressive profiles to much tip weight will start pulling back low and mid shift force due to the tip weight being tucked closer to balance point than a flater profile.
Driven clutch cam angle is your torque load sensitivity, less cam angle will allow the load to close the driven clutch easier ( overcome the primary and force it open) the driven clutch as it opens obviously gets smaller in diameter and harder for the clutch to control load and usually the reason for less finish cam angle.
In my opinion the driven clutch is the biggest in efficiency in the CVT clutch. The belt by design has to slip to function so the best you can do is limit the slip. I have personally seen 4 track HP gain from a simple driven clutch spring change. Go with a stiffer spring both torsional and compression till you don't gain any more. Any more spring from where the gain stops only builds resistance that the primary has to over come. Get the driven where you want it and then tune your shift RPM.
All you are doing is minimizing belt slip and balancing one clutch to the other.
I know the Viper has a couple more issue's that I have not personally delt with yet but will probably get more involved with in the future. Not sure I helped with anything but just a couple of my thought's.
Driven clutch cam angle is your torque load sensitivity, less cam angle will allow the load to close the driven clutch easier ( overcome the primary and force it open) the driven clutch as it opens obviously gets smaller in diameter and harder for the clutch to control load and usually the reason for less finish cam angle.
In my opinion the driven clutch is the biggest in efficiency in the CVT clutch. The belt by design has to slip to function so the best you can do is limit the slip. I have personally seen 4 track HP gain from a simple driven clutch spring change. Go with a stiffer spring both torsional and compression till you don't gain any more. Any more spring from where the gain stops only builds resistance that the primary has to over come. Get the driven where you want it and then tune your shift RPM.
All you are doing is minimizing belt slip and balancing one clutch to the other.
I know the Viper has a couple more issue's that I have not personally delt with yet but will probably get more involved with in the future. Not sure I helped with anything but just a couple of my thought's.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
kviper said:A couple more thing's to get a little more technical on the 101 list. An agressive weight profile will generate more centrifugal force allowing for lighter total weight. This is easier to back shift and makes the motor more responsive. Also usually harder to maintain good tip weight and you need tip weight to keep the clutch shifting near top end. In most agressive profiles to much tip weight will start pulling back low and mid shift force due to the tip weight being tucked closer to balance point than a flater profile.
Driven clutch cam angle is your torque load sensitivity, less cam angle will allow the load to close the driven clutch easier ( overcome the primary and force it open) the driven clutch as it opens obviously gets smaller in diameter and harder for the clutch to control load and usually the reason for less finish cam angle.
In my opinion the driven clutch is the biggest in efficiency in the CVT clutch. The belt by design has to slip to function so the best you can do is limit the slip. I have personally seen 4 track HP gain from a simple driven clutch spring change. Go with a stiffer spring both torsional and compression till you don't gain any more. Any more spring from where the gain stops only builds resistance that the primary has to over come. Get the driven where you want it and then tune your shift RPM.
All you are doing is minimizing belt slip and balancing one clutch to the other.
I know the Viper has a couple more issue's that I have not personally delt with yet but will probably get more involved with in the future. Not sure I helped with anything but just a couple of my thought's.
Yep, but as I titled this Clutching 101 I didn't want to go to deep and cause any more confusion than was needed. I do appreciate you adding to it though as you are spot on.

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TD Max said:I agree so long as it's factual and not just x2 x3 attaboy. The multi page threads make it so difficult to find anything meaningful sometimes.
Factual is the only way TD
Mark -Yamadoo, Thanks bud!
YamahaTim - The Friday night Real Street Drags they have once a month are pretty cool to come and watch. It's laid back, lots of fast stuff turning it up to see how fast they can go! Most of the time, you will see cars dragging the bumpers to the 1/8 mile, "Real" street racing where cars, bikes and sleds will give each other lengths. I had a video where I had my hands off of the bars, gave the 1400 Ninja the hit (let him go first before I could grab the bars) and passed him 1/2 track on my SRX. Good night for testing!
I need to test more with different size rollers....I keep forgetting about those being different size.


YamahaTim
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NOS-PRO said:TD Max said:I agree so long as it's factual and not just x2 x3 attaboy. The multi page threads make it so difficult to find anything meaningful sometimes.
Factual is the only way TD
Mark -Yamadoo, Thanks bud!
YamahaTim - The Friday night Real Street Drags they have once a month are pretty cool to come and watch. It's laid back, lots of fast stuff turning it up to see how fast they can go! Most of the time, you will see cars dragging the bumpers to the 1/8 mile, "Real" street racing where cars, bikes and sleds will give each other lengths. I had a video where I had my hands off of the bars, gave the 1400 Ninja the hit (let him go first before I could grab the bars) and passed him 1/2 track on my SRX. Good night for testing!
I need to test more with different size rollers....I keep forgetting about those being different size.
We will definitely get together for a weekend for the races!

stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Bump to the top.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
This needs bumped to the top as I see a lot of these questions being asked
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Bumping to the top as I see a lot of these questions being asked
yamamarc
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great info

!! when it comes to the terms "upshift" or" full shift" I'm having a hard time understanding!!
Is upshift when you hammer the throttle and go to your max rpm? Then once you hit a certain speed I notice the rpm will drop a few 100 rpm and the machine "planes out" and slowly creeps back up to max rpm is that "full shift"?



Is upshift when you hammer the throttle and go to your max rpm? Then once you hit a certain speed I notice the rpm will drop a few 100 rpm and the machine "planes out" and slowly creeps back up to max rpm is that "full shift"?

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great info!! when it comes to the terms "upshift" or" full shift" I'm having a hard time understanding!!
Is upshift when you hammer the throttle and go to your max rpm? Then once you hit a certain speed I notice the rpm will drop a few 100 rpm and the machine "planes out" and slowly creeps back up to max rpm is that "full shift"?
Sounds right yamamarc

Now if you want faster upshift, this is where a steeper angle would be used.
Example is if you have a 46/40 and wanted faster upshift, you would go to a 48/40.
The key is everything needs to work with each other...... like all the instruments in a concert to have a good performance. Imagine your clutching like a 30 pc. jazz band, 1 or 2 instruments plays too early, misses their note or out of tune screws up the rest of the band.
yamamarc
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Gottcha thanks!!!!!! My cotc parts should be here anytime!!! I'm getting excited to try this out and see what the result s will be!!!Sounds right yamamarc
Now if you want faster upshift, this is where a steeper angle would be used.
Example is if you have a 46/40 and wanted faster upshift, you would go to a 48/40.
The key is everything needs to work with each other...... like all the instruments in a concert to have a good performance. Imagine your clutching like a 30 pc. jazz band, 1 or 2 instruments plays too early, misses their note or out of tune screws up the rest of the band.
I'm on vacation right now so it's a good time to try and learn the basics of clutching!!! I'm spending way to much time on this site..lol

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