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Clutching and Traction

BlueByYou2000 said:
I agree with John just as long as its not really loose snow. The looser the snow, the more power to the track, the more you will spin with ANY clutch kit for ANY sled. I think you need at least 144 studs. Add one to each paddle...BBY
So basically don't run in powder, which I don't. I only run on hard packed trails or hard packed lakes. I will be in touch.
 

after last saterday i can relate this.
660' races on hard packed snow the apex gave everybody fits with its holeshot
how?
11/4 "ripsaw with 192 woody's 1.405 with angle backers front and back lowered.
clutching dalton dpry weights with red prim spring
51/45 dalton helix and silver sec spring at 70 degree
gearing depending on track conditions and driver.
rev it @10700 and it will work very well ,many improvement to be made yet but this is a excellent start.
picked
 
Hey BBY, finally got some traction yesterday ! Has been loose all year. It's working now boy, 127mph on the dream meter and quicker than a Mach Z. Wow, what a difference when you can hook it up, that is why the attaks were so quick in the loose stuff.
 
By how much do you lighten the tip of HH to make it rev at 11,000rpm?? Remove thick washer???
 
I have slightly drilled out my center and tip rivets on stock weights..

Sled now pulls 10,700 out of the hole and pulls up to 10,900 on mid and top end..

Sled has amazing low and midrange power (pulls the skis from a stand still about 2 inches and can hold them till over 100mph on the dremmeter!

My sled stock with only these mods can just barely outrun my buddys 2005 ZR900... i get him by about 2 sled lenghts and hold it..


Here is my question.. How do i get more top end out of it... 109MPH on the dremmeter on hardpack snow is the tops ive ever gotton... I could get 119 out of my warrior!

Im still running stock weights, springs, and stock helix (but is machined)
 
My rpm is 10,800-10,900.
 
Nice post. Like matt Says the Key is traction. If your going to add power to the track you better have the traction to hold to the ground or your wasting your money
 
Matt i am having the same problem with my proline... It was launching and blowing the track loose so hard i think it was over shifting and only turning 10500.. when i roll into it at like 50mph right to 11 and pulled like a bear! Im gonna stud up over the summer and giver hell next year. BTW i only had 96 in at the time. My season is over its 60 here now!
 
How's this for clutching and traction (see video). Here's the sleds and setups.

Sled #1 '03 RX-1 mtn with;
Stock primary spring 8FA-00 Yamaha weight with 4.5 gram rivets in tips and middle (78gr ea.), 14.5mm rollers, secondary has stock (45* if memory is good) with a pink spring at 70* twist, 162" x 15" x 2" Camoplast Challenger track fully clipped with Wahl Bros. extros, MPI Stage 1 SC running on low boost pully setting while dialing in jetting run distance? (guessing 1600' to guy filming) on a lake with loose snow over ice at 8870' elevation. Rider is 280+ lbs with all gear including pack with survival gear.

Sled #2 '06 Summit REV 800 stock? with 170 lb rider fully geared.

link to video; http://media.putfile.com/rx-sc-vs-800sum

Jim
 
I have recently purchased a 2007 Attak. I do not plan on studding and was wondering if there are any kits available designed for unstudded machines. I came from a Tcat that used to blow everything out the back end. I solved this problem with an unusual helix, 70-35. The machine was unbelievable out of the hole and about 300 feet out, felt like rocket boosters cutting in. (also unstudded)

Basically I am looking for any info that could help in this situation as I have no intention of studding. I have 331 km on now, and gave her a couple of shots on way to truck last trip out, revs to 10700-10800ish thereabouts.

I see that these kits raise the engagement to mid to high 4's, which is why studds are needed. Is there a kit available that keeps stock engagement but is more agreesive in mid and top, or is the stock set-up as good as it gets non-studded.
tks in advance
r
 
No kits designed specifically for that catchmeifyoucan, but you stock components work great. Get your primary and stock helix machined for more top end. Otherwise the attaks are clutched very nicely out of the box, and are also geared where they should be compared to the Apex...BBY
 


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