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Clutching issues

Looks like your belt never sees the top half of the sheaves. You could gear down a LOT
 

Well the secondary cam button is intact.
Would like to see a pic of the primary clutch weights, do u know how to remove the cover?
 
What do you guys have to say about the picture of his primary in post 12, something going on there I think.
 

this could use a scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad as that looks like a lot of residue on that clutch. is there usually frost on your clutch in the morning when you start your sled?

well it did get better with blowing it out but now it sounds like you need to pull the main primary bolt and pull the cover off of the clutch to pull the spring out and make sure everything moves smoothly.
 
this could use a scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad as that looks like a lot of residue on that clutch. is there usually frost on your clutch in the morning when you start your sled?

well it did get better with blowing it out but now it sounds like you need to pull the main primary bolt and pull the cover off of the clutch to pull the spring out and make sure everything moves smoothly.
Ok. Is there anything i should know. Take the primary bolt off then remove the screws. Anything special with the spring or anything else i should know?
 
There will be some spring pressure but make sure u mark what position cover is in when u put back together so it’s balanced
 
let the screws off evenly and mark ing the clutch cover with a magic marker is not a bad idea. they are marked on the back side with an "x" that is right in the casting on both parts.

as long as it is a stock style spring you can hold the cover on with your hand to get it back together. if it has super torquer/heelclicker clutching, you need 3 longer bolts to get the spring compressed enough to start the factory bolts.

while it is apart make sure everything moves/rotates smoothly and there are no lines on weights or rollers. the clutch cover should slide smoothly without the spring in as should the outer sheve/face before you reassemble it.
 
FDC66036-E888-473E-AF0A-DD2D529A9EBB.jpeg
494D0F39-2FF4-46C8-B185-BE9DAB27CA23.jpeg
let the screws off evenly and mark ing the clutch cover with a magic marker is not a bad idea. they are marked on the back side with an "x" that is right in the casting on both parts.

as long as it is a stock style spring you can hold the cover on with your hand to get it back together. if it has super torquer/heelclicker clutching, you need 3 longer bolts to get the spring compressed enough to start the factory bolts.

while it is apart make sure everything moves/rotates smoothly and there are no lines on weights or rollers. the clutch cover should slide smoothly without the spring in as should the outer sheve/face before you reassemble it.
494D0F39-2FF4-46C8-B185-BE9DAB27CA23.jpeg
 

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You would really benefit from much lower gearing if you have the chain case apart sometime.
 


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