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Clutching starting point?

langow

Expert
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
467
Location
West Bend, WI
Just bought DTYA-1 weights, Daltaon Black/Green primary spring, and Black/orange secondary.
270hp tuned Sidewinder RTX -all groomed trail riding in UP of MI.

Do the DTYA-1's need weight added, or?
Does 6/2 sound correct for secondary wrap?

Thank you!
 

Just bought DTYA-1 weights, Daltaon Black/Green primary spring, and Black/orange secondary.
270hp tuned Sidewinder RTX -all groomed trail riding in UP of MI.

Do the DTYA-1's need weight added, or?
Does 6/2 sound correct for secondary wrap?

Thank
6-2 is what Dalton recommends. Start with your weights empty, see what your rpm is at. Add weight accordingly. Adding weight trailside is easy with daltons.
 
6/2 should be fine BUT.. Don't be afraid to try 6/3 with that blk/org. Few factors on the spring twist>track lug Hight, studs/traction..
 
6-1 vs 6-2 vs 6-3 whats does the spring wrapped tighter actually do?

I have a very similar clutch setup as the OP, same springs, same weights just add in all HD rollers, unfortunately I am a bit of a belt blower
 
6-1 vs 6-2 vs 6-3 whats does the spring wrapped tighter actually do?

I have a very similar clutch setup as the OP, same springs, same weights just add in all HD rollers, unfortunately I am a bit of a belt blower
The tighter wrap increases torsion (backwards tension) on the spring and clutch, gripping the belt tighter between the sheaves. 6-1 was the recommended wrap for the 1st Gen Dalton Black/Orange spring, the 2nd Gen Dalton Spring was 6-2 to get the same pressure. 6-3 would make it even tighter. There's a balance between going to tight though. Usually tighter means faster backshift and some loss of top end speed, all in the hopes of preventing belt slip.
 
Stock helix I assume? Wrap that spring to at least 6-2. I never ran the new black/orange spring, but I blew a lot of belts with the original black orange as it wasn’t stiff enough.

It’s easy to add weight to those daltons so I would try them empty first and see what RPM you turn.
 
Stock helix I assume? Wrap that spring to at least 6-2. I never ran the new black/orange spring, but I blew a lot of belts with the original black orange as it wasn’t stiff enough.

It’s easy to add weight to those daltons so I would try them empty first and see what RPM you turn.
Yes stock helix, i am running a lot of weight in the Daltons, sled makes good power, I will try wrapping tighter and see the difference!
 
Do the springs wear out or are they good pretty indefinitely typically?
Springs wear out. 1000 miles isn’t too bad if you thrash on it all the time, but should get more. I run STM weights, so not an apples to apples comparison. These clutches need a lot of secondary spring I’ve found, I also changed my helix from stock to 41-37 on my brothers sled, and a 43/35 on my sled. Both 129s and both run hard with excellent belt life. I did 3200kms on one belt last season, and the belt still looks good.
 
Do the springs wear out or are they good pretty indefinitely typically?

Primary clutch springs lose pressure although not too bad on Yamaha's, Ive never seen a Dalton or Yamaha secondary spring in a Yamaha secondary lose pressure. I check them on the scale ALL the time. When I ran my Doo's you really had to stay on top of spring to keep top performance and let me tell you the Doo's would lose pressure in a quick hurry. Primary and secondary springs.
 


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