I'm gonna bore you with a very wordy series of questions, but my mind is in overdrive. Your time is greatly appreciated....
I've read all the setup stuff on various sites and have a pretty good idea of what I need in terms of track, skis, cooling box, suspension, etc. I'm thinking this could be an absolute blast for next summer, I'd do it mostly on the cheap as an exibition thing just because I live near Indianapolis...racing capital of the world, yet far enough south that people around here seem to have never heard of such a thing as snowmobiles on asphalt. This creates some unique challenges as well. I have nobody around here to bounce stuff off, observe, or even race against...I have never seen an asphalt drag in person. I presume I'd be going up alongside cars and motorcycles mostly and just maybe doing the bracket racing thing.
So here's my questions:
1. Here's the longshot question: Does anybody know of a track in central Indiana that has been known to allow a snowmobile to run?
This is my first roadblock, but I'm doing some talking with tech guys. This is surprisingly a bigger roadblock than I expected to encounter right out of the hole. I'm printing out the official rules and websites, and delivering them in person next week to chat with a local track official during their Tuesday night street legal drags at ORP, (formerly IRP)...so this is the big daddy of all drag tracks in the country (I was just there at the NHRA finals yesterday and I really got the bug!), and this is the closest track to my home. I've raced my own cars there a few times in the past but they don't know me personally, so we'll just have to see how it goes. If they won't let me run a sled I'll have to travel farther to some smaller tracks. It just seems that since none of these guys really knows what to expect from a snowmobile, they don't know what kind of safety stuff I need to have and seem to be fearing liability. So I have to teach them...which frankly is blind leading the blind in itself!
2. Traction seems to be a limiting factor for many of you guys, which surprises me based on the size of the slick patch these things have. I'm curious, do you guys do a burnout or just drive around the box and run the track cold? Would a burnout make it sticky or greasy? With no front brakes, you can't do much of one, can you? Again, forgive the rookie questions but I have never seen this done...
3. I'd be running an Attak. I presume a 136" track and skid would produce better traction than a 121"? Or have you not found this to be the case? It's far easier to find used 121" asphalt stuff of course, so maybe that would be smarter for me since I'm just doing for fun...your thoughts?
4. If I didn't want to invest in an expensive Wahl skid or such thing, would the Attak Mono skid be relatively easy to convert back and forth between summer/winter, or would I be smarter to buy a used skid out of a different sled and just set it up and leave it so I can swap skids back and forth? Is the mono maybe a terrible skid for asphalt? If a different skid is preferred, do you have any suggestions for a good used skid that would take mods easy and fit well under an Attak? It seems from my research that the narrow Firecat skids are used often in other brands, or maybe I don't know what I'm talking about....
That's all for now....I may inquire more later. Just really would like to shake things up here at a local track to show people something different, and of course have some fun in the summer with this machine...
Thanks as always!
I've read all the setup stuff on various sites and have a pretty good idea of what I need in terms of track, skis, cooling box, suspension, etc. I'm thinking this could be an absolute blast for next summer, I'd do it mostly on the cheap as an exibition thing just because I live near Indianapolis...racing capital of the world, yet far enough south that people around here seem to have never heard of such a thing as snowmobiles on asphalt. This creates some unique challenges as well. I have nobody around here to bounce stuff off, observe, or even race against...I have never seen an asphalt drag in person. I presume I'd be going up alongside cars and motorcycles mostly and just maybe doing the bracket racing thing.
So here's my questions:
1. Here's the longshot question: Does anybody know of a track in central Indiana that has been known to allow a snowmobile to run?
This is my first roadblock, but I'm doing some talking with tech guys. This is surprisingly a bigger roadblock than I expected to encounter right out of the hole. I'm printing out the official rules and websites, and delivering them in person next week to chat with a local track official during their Tuesday night street legal drags at ORP, (formerly IRP)...so this is the big daddy of all drag tracks in the country (I was just there at the NHRA finals yesterday and I really got the bug!), and this is the closest track to my home. I've raced my own cars there a few times in the past but they don't know me personally, so we'll just have to see how it goes. If they won't let me run a sled I'll have to travel farther to some smaller tracks. It just seems that since none of these guys really knows what to expect from a snowmobile, they don't know what kind of safety stuff I need to have and seem to be fearing liability. So I have to teach them...which frankly is blind leading the blind in itself!
2. Traction seems to be a limiting factor for many of you guys, which surprises me based on the size of the slick patch these things have. I'm curious, do you guys do a burnout or just drive around the box and run the track cold? Would a burnout make it sticky or greasy? With no front brakes, you can't do much of one, can you? Again, forgive the rookie questions but I have never seen this done...
3. I'd be running an Attak. I presume a 136" track and skid would produce better traction than a 121"? Or have you not found this to be the case? It's far easier to find used 121" asphalt stuff of course, so maybe that would be smarter for me since I'm just doing for fun...your thoughts?
4. If I didn't want to invest in an expensive Wahl skid or such thing, would the Attak Mono skid be relatively easy to convert back and forth between summer/winter, or would I be smarter to buy a used skid out of a different sled and just set it up and leave it so I can swap skids back and forth? Is the mono maybe a terrible skid for asphalt? If a different skid is preferred, do you have any suggestions for a good used skid that would take mods easy and fit well under an Attak? It seems from my research that the narrow Firecat skids are used often in other brands, or maybe I don't know what I'm talking about....
That's all for now....I may inquire more later. Just really would like to shake things up here at a local track to show people something different, and of course have some fun in the summer with this machine...
Thanks as always!
DaJudge
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You may want to PM NOS PRO. He is running an Attack on pavement. He is using a 121 Wahl skid. His sled is basicly stock except for exhaust and clutch work.
You shouldnt have any problems racing at ORP. They run sleds in the NHRA up in Brainerd Mn. so the rules should be the same. You will make believer out of them when they see you run low to mid 11's with a stock sled once you get it set up. Pat Hauck was running 10.50's at Martin Mi a couple weeks ago. He said it was stock.
You shouldnt have any problems racing at ORP. They run sleds in the NHRA up in Brainerd Mn. so the rules should be the same. You will make believer out of them when they see you run low to mid 11's with a stock sled once you get it set up. Pat Hauck was running 10.50's at Martin Mi a couple weeks ago. He said it was stock.
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All you would need is to remove your slides, get a 15 x 136 slick track and skis, (used or new), take out your thermostat, add a quick disconnect, and put a number on it to get started. SRX shocks work great on the front, and will drop it down immediately, and then strap down the rear skid somehow. This would get you started for under a grand if using used parts.
Thanks guys...very helpful.
NOS-PRO, you make no mention of adding extra wheels in the skid....so for a beginner I can just remove the hyfax and run stock idler wheels on a 15 inch track after strapping down the skid? I'm sure I wouldn't be the fastest which is fine, but I woudn't do any damage to the rails and/or the track if I had only the stock idlers? I assumed that I HAD to add extra wheels to prevent damage...maybe not?
Still very curious if you guys ever do a burnout or not....
Also another one popped into my head overnight:
After your run, do you actually drive the sled all the way back to get your timeslip and then back to the pits to your cooldown box? Or do you have someone waiting at the end of the track so you can shut 'er down early and get towed back? I'm not sure how long they can run before they begin to overheat.
Thanks again! Any suggestions you have for a total rookie who will be starting alone from scratch is outstanding...
NOS-PRO, you make no mention of adding extra wheels in the skid....so for a beginner I can just remove the hyfax and run stock idler wheels on a 15 inch track after strapping down the skid? I'm sure I wouldn't be the fastest which is fine, but I woudn't do any damage to the rails and/or the track if I had only the stock idlers? I assumed that I HAD to add extra wheels to prevent damage...maybe not?
Still very curious if you guys ever do a burnout or not....
Also another one popped into my head overnight:
After your run, do you actually drive the sled all the way back to get your timeslip and then back to the pits to your cooldown box? Or do you have someone waiting at the end of the track so you can shut 'er down early and get towed back? I'm not sure how long they can run before they begin to overheat.
Thanks again! Any suggestions you have for a total rookie who will be starting alone from scratch is outstanding...
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
hlmrx, that helps a TON. Very cool...I'm getting really stoked about this idea...
So if I'm understanding this right, your skid is basically all stock with just a couple front wheels added....no others? And as NOS noted above, install the SRX shocks/springs up front to get the lowered front stance on this chassis which makes sense to me, but you say you also have an "SRX shocks" in the rear that helps lower the skid down as well? I find that hard to picture on the mono....maybe you don't have the mono skid on your machine? If yes, I guess I'd just need one shock/spring assembly for the rear I guess....does that fit as a direct bolt-on? And then you don't even strap it at all huh?
Pretty cool...this sounds even better and easier all the time!
I really, REALLY appreciate you guys taking the time to help me get a plan in my head...
So if I'm understanding this right, your skid is basically all stock with just a couple front wheels added....no others? And as NOS noted above, install the SRX shocks/springs up front to get the lowered front stance on this chassis which makes sense to me, but you say you also have an "SRX shocks" in the rear that helps lower the skid down as well? I find that hard to picture on the mono....maybe you don't have the mono skid on your machine? If yes, I guess I'd just need one shock/spring assembly for the rear I guess....does that fit as a direct bolt-on? And then you don't even strap it at all huh?
Pretty cool...this sounds even better and easier all the time!
I really, REALLY appreciate you guys taking the time to help me get a plan in my head...
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Sorry, I have an 03, I didn't realize you had the mono skid, I'm not sure about that one. With mine the SRX shocks fit and are shorter than the RX1 shocks so they suck the skid down. Of course the more wheels you have the more rubber you actually have on the track so better hook up. I don't have any extra wheels other that the marginal snow small wheels at the front.
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craze1cars said:
I would put some hyfax saver wheels by the front radius of the rails, and a set somewhere on the sides to keep contact of the track, otherwise the track will wear in a weird pattern. A couple inside and outside will make it hook. As for the mono, I have not tried to suck it down and run it stock, but there always is a way..... I have the SRX shocks up front right now, and works great! Just need to figure out the sucking down of the rear.
I drive mine down, and then back to the pits, but it does get warm. I just made a little cart that I will be using under the skid, and then pulled back by somebody. Keeps it around 150° that way, and don't need the cool down much then.
Thanks guys....I think I now have a pretty good idea of what to expect and what I need to start looking for.
You've been very helpful. Keep the comments coming if you or anyone else thinks of something new. I'll be watching all your other posts very regularly to see what I can pick up in the meantime.
You've been very helpful. Keep the comments coming if you or anyone else thinks of something new. I'll be watching all your other posts very regularly to see what I can pick up in the meantime.
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
For the 136 skid you'll probably end up with a 10" wide track. I think camoplast makes a 15" wide, but haven't ever seen one. When I started with the stock suspension in my warrior, I only added a set of wheels to the front of the rails. As you go, you may want to consider adding more wheels or an asphalt specific skid. To start out though, you don't need much. If you do end up with a narrow track, I think you'll just have to modify the upper idler wheels for the return in the tunnel. Good luck with everything, and there's plenty of us here to help. 
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There are wheel kits available for the inside of the rails that keep pressure on the track at it's highest pressure points. I think you can buy a kit of 4 for $300. You could probably find a used 15 x 136 track, but may be tough to come by. I would recommend trying to find one of those first and if you can't find one you'll have to buy a 10.5 x 136 which will require moving the upper idlers in and the rear idler wheels to inside the rails only. It may be cheaper and easier to buy a used Wahl ice/grass skid (like NOS-PRO runs) and a 10.5 x 121 track and simply swap the whole skid setup.
A set of skis can be found for anywhere from $150 to $400+ for brand new.
You'll need a cool down cart which you can get some decent build instructions here http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253757&searchString=Cool. You'll also need a set of cool down couplers to put on the sled, remove the thermostat as NOS-PRO says and it's nice to have a water temp gauge on the sled to watch your temps for over heating and consistancy.
Tieing down the monoshock is a possibility, but first I would work with it at the stock ride height and see how it does. It might work ok actually. If you wanted to later on invest in a set of SRX front shocks and then work to strap down the rear suspension you could always do it later on.
For clutching, you can run the stock clutching with no problems, but will be giving up some performance. I'm sure it can be tuned to be consistant if you're just looking to bracket race.
A set of skis can be found for anywhere from $150 to $400+ for brand new.
You'll need a cool down cart which you can get some decent build instructions here http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253757&searchString=Cool. You'll also need a set of cool down couplers to put on the sled, remove the thermostat as NOS-PRO says and it's nice to have a water temp gauge on the sled to watch your temps for over heating and consistancy.
Tieing down the monoshock is a possibility, but first I would work with it at the stock ride height and see how it does. It might work ok actually. If you wanted to later on invest in a set of SRX front shocks and then work to strap down the rear suspension you could always do it later on.
For clutching, you can run the stock clutching with no problems, but will be giving up some performance. I'm sure it can be tuned to be consistant if you're just looking to bracket race.
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Also you'll need a tether chord. You need a Arctic Cat normally closed tether chord. You can get one online at http://www.hiperf.com reference # 176-118 or at Rich Motorsports http://richmotorsports.com/store/view_product.php?product=TET4OD9H187.
Awesome....
I'm seriously thinking life might just be easier if I were to go ahead and find an entire second skid and dedicate it to asphalt. A little extra money isn't a huge objection for me...a few extra hundred for the convenience of not having to take the time to screw up my winter set-up would be worth it for me, and it'd probably be faster on asphalt anyway if it was dedicated and had many more wheels. Plus if I decide to get out of it, I could always re-sell it and get most of my money back anyway. (I'd definitely buy used for starters.)
With the seasons I'd just have to swap out skid, track, front shocks, skis, cluch kits, and maybe even the drive axle. I figure I could get a used axle pretty cheap and press on a pair of extroverts for winter, and keep the stock one as-is for asphalt.
What's the deal with everyone going to 10 inch tracks now? It would seem that a 15 incher would give that much more surface area and therefore more traction. What's the theory behind that?
Thanks!
I'm seriously thinking life might just be easier if I were to go ahead and find an entire second skid and dedicate it to asphalt. A little extra money isn't a huge objection for me...a few extra hundred for the convenience of not having to take the time to screw up my winter set-up would be worth it for me, and it'd probably be faster on asphalt anyway if it was dedicated and had many more wheels. Plus if I decide to get out of it, I could always re-sell it and get most of my money back anyway. (I'd definitely buy used for starters.)
With the seasons I'd just have to swap out skid, track, front shocks, skis, cluch kits, and maybe even the drive axle. I figure I could get a used axle pretty cheap and press on a pair of extroverts for winter, and keep the stock one as-is for asphalt.
What's the deal with everyone going to 10 inch tracks now? It would seem that a 15 incher would give that much more surface area and therefore more traction. What's the theory behind that?
Thanks!
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
craze1cars said:
For asphalt, it's not necessicarialy better to have more track. The 10" track weighs less, and will give better mph. You also have more pressure per square inch to help with traction. The debate between 136 and 121 has been made numerous times, and results (e.t. and speed) are very close. A 10" track is several tenths quicker than a 15" track though.
Thanks monker...that makes sense.
One last question and I'll let this rest a while. What method do you guys use to launch? Do you just nail it WOT right off the line or would that just blow the track loose? Is this where driver skill and experience is critical, where you have to modulate the throttle partially open early in the run to keep from breaking the track loose? I'm curious how much these tracks stick or spin...
One last question and I'll let this rest a while. What method do you guys use to launch? Do you just nail it WOT right off the line or would that just blow the track loose? Is this where driver skill and experience is critical, where you have to modulate the throttle partially open early in the run to keep from breaking the track loose? I'm curious how much these tracks stick or spin...
