CURVE OR SLP MOHAWKS

[SumpBuster]

Yes limiter is tightened one hole from stock. Rear Torsion spring on 2, center track shock loosened quite a bit from stock. 19 threads if I remember. Had the tuners working great on everything but mashed potatoe snow in corners, they pushed a little. Thought these curves would be even better.

Loosening the front shock can make the sled pitchy...constantly changing the ski engagement in the snow. On the gad, weight comes off, off the gas, the front dumps and it's all different. The sled pivots on that front shock. Mine does not transfer big, but enough, but it dosent dive either so the ski feel is consistent...lighter under gas, but still strength with the back end and skis. Let off a hair, plant the front and power through. Double check toe out too. I screw a long hex nut onto the skag bolts and a button head screw threaded into it to measure from.

 

[picasso]

Double checked my toe measurements again. This time kept 6 ft level on one side of the track and used one side of the same side to measure each of the two pints on each ski. Just a fuzz over 1/4 “. That is total toe out both skis. Looked at carbides resting naturally on garage floor, while sled sitting on the floor. No dollies, just sitting there. Front of the carbides up off the floor maybe a small 1/8 inch. I don’t think that needs shimming. But maybe I’m wrong? Still wondering which way to go with carbides. I’m torn between slim Jim’s or shapers with leading edge. Few of you like the slim Jim’s. So maybe I should try those first?

 

[murdered141]

I am trying out the curves for the first time today. I’m not liking them at all! Put them on with their round 4 “ carbides. The dart terribly over 40 on roads with 6 inches or so. I checked toe. I am 1/4 inch total. I tighten front shocks 4 turns, then really turns in corners but darts really really bad. If I loosen then it doesn’t turn, but doesn’t dart as bad. Not sure what I am going to do next. Trash canlooking good.

You can put them in my trash can, ill evem pay the shipping

 

[picasso]

You can put them in my trash can, ill evem pay the shipping

Funny guy! Lol!

 

[SumpBuster]

Double checked my toe measurements again. This time kept 6 ft level on one side of the track and used one side of the same side to measure each of the two pints on each ski. Just a fuzz over 1/4 “. That is total toe out both skis. Looked at carbides resting naturally on garage floor, while sled sitting on the floor. No dollies, just sitting there. Front of the carbides up off the floor maybe a small 1/8 inch. I don’t think that needs shimming. But maybe I’m wrong? Still wondering which way to go with carbides. I’m torn between slim Jim’s or shapers with leading edge. Few of you like the slim Jim’s. So maybe I should try those first?

Jack up the sled so the skis are just off the floor to check heel or toe pressure. On my apex, I have enough shims so the back of the ski is visible down in the back, and picking up the back of the ski, it springs back to position, if you kow what I mean.
That's where they work best on the apex. On the sw, I'm pretty much level, but tight, meaning no slop..I have pressure either side if you push down the front, or back it springs back to position. And my bolts go in tight as I want no play. It makes a difference.
Try the slim jims if darting is your main complaint, but they will make that inside ski pop up under certain conditions as they will dig in a lot more than the ski keel, with standard carbides, and grab.
Under acceleration, on a normal trail, I can actually 'row' my handlebars back and forth a little with no surprises, and just let off a hair an dial in the amount of steering I want. I do not want something grabbing at speed when I screw up...need a little safety cushion, and that is usually some push....but when I want it. Dual skags push all the time, doolies more so than slim jims.

 

[rbell14]

I added Curves skis with 6 inch woody's slim jims to my stock viper and the improvement was tremendous. Very happy, that said I think the slim jim carbide is what really makes the difference as they are pretty aggressive. I've never run the skis with any other bars to compare.

I'm not using the leading edge either...

 

[picasso]

I just ordered a set

 

[SumpBuster]

Too bad you weren't close...coulda tried a set..lol! Curve slim jims, low miles, one owner!!
As a comparison, my daughter runs my, now hers, 05 vector with slim Jims on stock skis and her husband an identical 05 vector with doolies on stock skis. They both told me the slim Jim's are far better than the doolies. Good info.

 

[VyperNation]

Finally got to take the new sleds out for the first time yesterday. Both will be receiving new skis. As so many others have said, the Tuners SUCK on these sleds. In fact, like others, I would go so far as to say, at times, they are down right scary. Unpredictable at best. Not being able to trust a sled going into a turn is an entirely new feeling for me. Anywho, I am leaning towards Mohawks for the Viper and am curious what carbides you guys that are happy with them are running. Thanks!

 

[Wannaviper]

Finally got to take the new sleds out for the first time yesterday. Both will be receiving new skis. As so many others have said, the Tuners SUCK on these sleds. In fact, like others, I would go so far as to say, at times, they are down right scary. Unpredictable at best. Not being able to trust a sled going into a turn is an entirely new feeling for me. Anywho, I am leaning towards Mohawks for the Viper and am curious what carbides you guys that are happy with them are running. Thanks!

I run the Bergstrom triple points on my Mohawks (on Viper XTX) and I am very happy with them. Scott recommended the 9" for the Viper XTX, and they work well. I got the shims and ski savers with the carbides, and it has been a great combination.

 

[ishpeming fan]

6 inch shapers 4inch leading edge no darting at all with great corner bite.

 

[ryan11007]

It's not the skis and I don't think tuners will work better. I never used Tuners on this chassis but did on our old Vector. Make small changes and make sure you ride it more than just one ride.
You can try the leading edge which they recommend for more nose heavy sleds (4-strokes) but I never needed them and it was in the same chassis with a heavier front end Turbo motor. If you are used to a dual carbide ski like the tuners, maybe will prefer dual carbides. Though I prefer another ski now, I had the curves set up very well with very little adjustment. Shimming helps also. Has your limiter strap been tightened up? Go back to stock setting if so. Shaper bars are great carbides but if you are trying to reduce and darting or tracking, not the best choice. Bergstrom triple points are great if you don't mind spending the $$$. I ran them with my Curves. There are lots of happy Curve ski owners so I wouldn't give up yet.
One thing "sumpbuster" mentioned that might be the same as I am getting at is, on initial turn in with Curves, it feels like a push and turn the bars more and then they grab a little and turn. It was predictable as he mentioned if its the same thing. I got used to it and it was no big deal after some miles on them and getting to know how they work.
If you toss the Curves, try an SLT or Mohawk (if you head off trail also) if you want an easy ski to set up. Probably the most dart free skis you will find. The rocker keel as opposed to flat bottom skis among other things makes a difference and will turn much better than those Tuner skis.

hi i got the mohawks i cant seem to steer. front shocks at 110. rear shock at 180 and front skids shock tightened pretty good. z bros spring. limiter strap on the last hole. skis come off ground easy. but cant seem to steer it really grabs. any ideas? just got the mohawks from tuner. set up must be off.. mohawks set to further out setting. let me know if u can help. thx

 

[stranger]

I can't give you a "head to head" comparison of the two because I have never run the Curves. Both my grandson and I have had the Mohawks with Bergstrom triple points on our Viper XTX's for about 3,000 miles, and we love them. They have great flotation off trail, and our sleds absolutely rail around corners with no push on trail. We shimmed them as recommended by Bergstrom, and while there is some darting, it is minimal. That having been said, if you don't need a cross-over or off trail ski, you might want to think about the Arctic Cat skis with Snow Trackers, or one of the other dual carbides. With the Snow Trackers, there is no push, no darting, and it feels like power steering. The Trackers are a little pricey, but the skis are inexpensive, and the whole thing should be cheaper than the Mohawks or Curves with new carbides.

Snow trackers have lighter steering than mohawks?
I'm assuming the mohawks offer better grip in looser snow?

 

[stranger]

Since about 1500 miles or so, I’ve been running curve skis, modified the ski to accept a set of snow trackers which Travis at BOB helped with( semi aggressive), Scott Bergstrom shims in the rear saddle,and a set of Rouski retractable ski wheels which Travis custom fitted for me( I was the one who commissioned him to do the first set).

You guys might think that is a crazy set up but it flat out works.
1- handles on rails when needed
2- Those ski’s float in the poweder.

Sounds great but doesn't snow trackers take over the ski?