lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I bought my Curve skis in the summer and started with the 08 Nytro specific carbide. I have spent a lot of time riding in lower Michigan this year where you are sometimes forced to run some seasonal roads to get from trail to trail. I was very pleased with the ski/carbide set-up on anything that had snow, but the set-up was dangerous on anything was a bit icy or extremely hard packed.
So this week I decided to try out a set of 7.5 shaper bars....what a mistake. The sled was unrideable!!! I thought I was losing my mind, so I had my buddy switch with me (He had ridden my sled with the old set-up), and he almost crashed in the first corner. It had way too much bite. Every time I turned, it felt like the track was on ice.
I could have probably messed with the supsension to loosen it up a little bit, but I think the carbide is way too much for the ski. We went back and put on the old carbide and it felt great on everything except roads. I will probably try another carbide, possible a 4 inch round bar...but for now, I am sticking with their recomendation to use their carbide.
Anybody want to buy a set of 7.5 shaper bars that fit Curve's or C&A's?
So this week I decided to try out a set of 7.5 shaper bars....what a mistake. The sled was unrideable!!! I thought I was losing my mind, so I had my buddy switch with me (He had ridden my sled with the old set-up), and he almost crashed in the first corner. It had way too much bite. Every time I turned, it felt like the track was on ice.
I could have probably messed with the supsension to loosen it up a little bit, but I think the carbide is way too much for the ski. We went back and put on the old carbide and it felt great on everything except roads. I will probably try another carbide, possible a 4 inch round bar...but for now, I am sticking with their recomendation to use their carbide.
Anybody want to buy a set of 7.5 shaper bars that fit Curve's or C&A's?
CJW
Extreme
How much do you want for them shipped to 48198?
Blue 4's Rule
Expert
Good report!! Been considering Curves for mine for a while now so this helps!
sd5500
Expert
I also don't like the nytro specific carbides b/c of ice and road turning. I have the 6" round bar in route, and I hope that helps.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
For those who have curve skis, what carbide are you running?
mllr25
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2008
- Messages
- 44
yah i rode about 600 mile on the curve ski with the nytro carbide up north i wasnt a fan it pushed way to much in the ice corners, so im thinking about a 4 of 6 in carbide from bergstrom any suggestions? other than that the skegs were got other than on ice and it wouldnt turn on black top either which is no big deal but kinda nice when your pullin in the gas staions haha
justinator
Lifetime Member
I started with the nytro specific, darted like mad and didnt turn on any surface you needed it to. I tried 6" round bar and now it turns but still darts like crazy
BLUEBALLER
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2005
- Messages
- 420
snow conditions continue to play a MAJOR role in the way this sled handles. Even when I thought I had things figured out with my curves - yesterday my sled was all over the place.
Darting while cruising & tail wagging on decel.
So - enough is enough. I've dumped more time n effort into this sled then I ever could've imagined.
sled is currently for sale - problem solved
Darting while cruising & tail wagging on decel.
So - enough is enough. I've dumped more time n effort into this sled then I ever could've imagined.
sled is currently for sale - problem solved
sd5500
Expert
justinator said:I started with the nytro specific, darted like mad and didnt turn on any surface you needed it to. I tried 6" round bar and now it turns but still darts like crazy
Whats your toe out? Sean from Curve is now recommending 1.25" difference in front of ski measurement to rear of ski. I have mine at about 1" and I did see some improvement in darting. If I don't see an improvement with the 6" round bars, I might have to consider a different ski.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
For me, snow conditions were identical. I rode the exact same trail within about an hour. With the 7.5's, I was sketchy every second.
I too am thinking about a 4 inch round bar....
I too am thinking about a 4 inch round bar....
justinator
Lifetime Member
sd5500 said:justinator said:I started with the nytro specific, darted like mad and didnt turn on any surface you needed it to. I tried 6" round bar and now it turns but still darts like crazy
Whats your toe out? Sean from Curve is now recommending 1.25" difference in front of ski measurement to rear of ski. I have mine at about 1" and I did see some improvement in darting. If I don't see an improvement with the 6" round bars, I might have to consider a different ski.
You wont see much of an improvement with the 6 round bars and heres why, the front of the carbide is way too exposed. The key too not darting is hiding the front of the wearbar, my yamaha mountain skis darted.....I replaced the wear bars with qualipieces cobra heads which hide the front of the runner, ZERO darting on any condition. Shimming helps lift the front of the runner away from the snow and makes it less likely to catch others ruts. I tried shimming the curves but the design of the rubber on the curves skis would require a huge shim to cure the darting and you would never be able to einstall the ski. Bottom line is these skis work well on the apex's and ventures but there are better options for the nytro. I used these skis all weekend long and spent more time adjusting toe out and suspension than I ever had in my life on any sled. My arms are like jello from fighting the sled and my butt cheeks are still clenched from all the near misses I had this weekend. I am done messing with these skis, I may mount them on my ice shack instead but then again I would hate for my ice shack to collide with another ice shack on the way to my fishing hole.
YAM182
Expert
I put the 4.5 shaper bars on and they seem to work pretty good for now.Little darting mostly on hardpacked trails.
Front strap moved 2 holes from stock.Floats are lower than 60lbs.
Still need to try the increased toe out.But it goes decent where it is.
Need a little more front end bite to corner better,sled still has a good push to it which is not a bad thing as it makes me have to slow down more. Wierd handle bar turning angle doesn't help at all when you are working the bars while cornering.
Curve skis do help but the 08 Nytro RTX still has handling issues.
I also refuse to put any more money into this thing and I will try to get through the season with these carbides and mabey try something different next season.
Enough is enough already.
2010 Gade 1200 next.
Front strap moved 2 holes from stock.Floats are lower than 60lbs.
Still need to try the increased toe out.But it goes decent where it is.
Need a little more front end bite to corner better,sled still has a good push to it which is not a bad thing as it makes me have to slow down more. Wierd handle bar turning angle doesn't help at all when you are working the bars while cornering.
Curve skis do help but the 08 Nytro RTX still has handling issues.
I also refuse to put any more money into this thing and I will try to get through the season with these carbides and mabey try something different next season.
Enough is enough already.
2010 Gade 1200 next.
Trussman
JAFO
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2007
- Messages
- 253
- Location
- WI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2004 Viper S
2017 'Winder
2022 SRX
I've got about a 1000 miles on my curves w/ 6" shapers. Works pretty well everywhere except very hard packed rutted trails like RR grades......very scary to go much over 50 on some of them....
But I think I finally got this sled working much better, & all it takes is money.
Put the floats on the shelf & replaced with Ohlins.
Had Pioneer revalve rear shocks.
Stretched the rear & installed a 136" Cobra.
Oh ya....Curve skis for the front.
A little over $3000 later and I'm getting close.....now I can fly down the RR grade with just a little twitching. And to think.......the Viper S only requires that I open the hood & add a little oil now & then...........
But I think I finally got this sled working much better, & all it takes is money.
Put the floats on the shelf & replaced with Ohlins.
Had Pioneer revalve rear shocks.
Stretched the rear & installed a 136" Cobra.
Oh ya....Curve skis for the front.
A little over $3000 later and I'm getting close.....now I can fly down the RR grade with just a little twitching. And to think.......the Viper S only requires that I open the hood & add a little oil now & then...........
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I know you guys are running Nytros but I am having the same problem with the skis on my Apex. I can not calm them down. I have tried 6" shaper and 6" tripple point bars. I have tried the skis shimmed at .25" and .37". I have set the skis anywhere from zero toe to a bit over .5" toe out.
I love the skis in the corners but I honestly am scared to take my hand off the bars when sleds are passing on the other side. It is hard enough as it is to keep the sled steady when passing.
I love the skis in the corners but I honestly am scared to take my hand off the bars when sleds are passing on the other side. It is hard enough as it is to keep the sled steady when passing.
sd5500
Expert
I just got a PM from Sean, and he was heading out to do more testing. They feel the 4" round is gonna be the way to go. I ordered the 6" round bar, and he delayed the shipment until they test the 4" more.
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