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Tuner Question

Yes you are correct it is snow conditions that cause blow out in corners on hard trails they were fine. I ride more aggresdively and needed not to blow thru corners due to snow conditions so went with the curves. I have the tuners on my wifes sled and she is fine with them ( non agressive and slower rider).

Pete
 

I have the same experience even with the Split Rail skis. Overall they handled well but performance varied greatly with snow conditions. On really hard snow there would be lots of inside ski lift due to pressure and a trail with a mat of 5" of loose snow could not be trusted. Even with Split Rails you used-up real estate and drifted across the trail. I found you just had to just slow down in corners and sometimes turn the bars in the corner to release pressure and to get more bite.

Herndonp - would your curves turn around corners with consistent bite or do you have to slow? What carbide are you using?
MS
 
They are pretty consistent. I suppose there is always that perfect corner that will cause any ski to drift. So far I have had good luck with the curves with the exception of harder steering compared to the tuners.

Pete
 
If you haven't already installed a steering post relocate I'd recommend it to compensate for any increase in steering effort from the Curves.
 
Very 1st thing I did on sled when it was brand new was the steering relocate. Could'nt live without it. Also seat kit to raise height to help the knees.

Pete
 
Hey, i think i was talking to you last year about this same setup. I had tuners, went to split rails, now back to the tuners.

I dont run shaper bars on mine, I run the qualipieces square bar carbides (Parkway Yamaha has them for 70 bucks a pair or so). 4 inches in and out. Sled handles great. Not as good as the split rails did, but pretty close. I think its the best setup you can get while still having easy steering effort.

The curves or c and a will handle better in alot of conditions, especially in loose snow, but I cant stand heavy steering in a sled. Maybe if you ride in cochrane and quebec all the time, but the trails around us here are super tight and narrow.
 
I think alot of the extra steering effort is due to the 43+2 a-arms I have installed. I talked with Grizz about this. He and I both tested different caster and camber angles to get the most out of the front end and for me I also tried to relieve the extra steering effort.Last year I ended up adjusting the front shock preload and a few other things and this helped with steering effort and inside ski lift. I had read about doing this in an article from a aftermarket ski manufacturer "USI" it seemed counter intutive to do that , but it worked. It does make the bumps alittle harder, but handling is so much better. Here is the article link, scroll down alittle to see it. http://ultimatesportsskis.com/chassis-setup/

Pete
 
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I have tried a lot of tuner combos on my Nytro shorty studded Ripsaw2.

I found the shaper style carbides heavier steering as well as don't hold up as well as a rd host bar design.

I prefer Woodys carbides on the tuners.
They don't have that initial hard effort to initiate a steering input but still work very well and they hold up VERY well.

The tuners are a great ski for the nytro....especially for hardpack trail riding...the harder more setup the surface the better they work.
They are a inconsistent as the snow gets deeper/looser and pretty much suck for deep snow/off trail.

4in 4out works well.
6in 2out also works well.
When I ran 6in 2out I used the 2in oem Yamaha carbides for the outside. Keeps the steering effort down. The outside carbide is basically just eliminating the dart and smoothing things ...it doesn't do much of the actual steering.

Not a fan of shapers period actually....to much initial turn in effort and they don't hold up as well as a similar quality rd bar design in my experience.

I run Tuners with 6in 2out for hradpack trail and late season riding and run Curves with their rd bar 4in carbides for deep/loose snow riding...... either works great when matched to the conditions.

Its too bad Yamaha didn't offer the updated Tuner ski for the Nytro....it has deeper keels which is what the original Tuners lacked...they are a good design they just are a lil too shallow keel.
 
Its too bad Yamaha didn't offer the updated Tuner ski for the Nytro....it has deeper keels which is what the original Tuners lacked...they are a good design they just are a lil too shallow keel.


I have not heard there were different tuner models, shallow keel, deeper keel, what year / PN do you refer to for the deeper keel tuners. Seems like there is a lot of debate about skis, but $300 all in or $500 is a difference. I ride hard and fast when conditions permit but don't need to prove anything to anyone so when a blind corner comes up, I can stay in my half of the trail no matter what (and those behind me are still not in my mirrors)... my sled came with a new set of tuners so plan to try them, but want to check the PN on the deep / shallow comment. Thanks.
 
I guess I am the only one thinking snow here! lol... my brother in law mentioned the same thing... I leave for Morocco next month and am there 50% of my time so have to sort things out by end of AUG or be screwed when the snow falls... must be winter somewhere!
 
I havn't known of a different sets of them... I can tell you on my xtx the tuners with dual 10's did not bite hard enough for me even with other supporting suspension mods... ended up going with some C&A razors and 7.5 shapers and they are magical.... my entire crew of vipers and nytros got rid of theres within 500 miles
 
Thanks. Researching a little more and thinking:
  • Yamaha 150mm Tuner Dual Runner Skis (have now)
  • Bergstrom "Q19" carbides on the inside keel (per their site)
  • Bergstrom "Q19" 1/2" hardsurfaced wear rods on the outside keel
  • Bergstrom 3/8" shims and Ski Savers
  • Camoplast 1.6" Ice Attack XT track (new last year)
Many other ski options but related to Tuners this seems to be an option. Any Tuner real life experiences?
 
TGO, Here is my input for what its worth, I ride a 2010 Apex LTX. Stock ski's were horrible ! Put Yamaha tunners on 4 years ago, first set of carbides were 4 in and 6 in from yamaha and worked well on nice hardpack trails, pushed on fluff but still better than stock. carbides almost wore out in 1 season. Called Kevin at port yamaha and he refered the woodys, much lager host bar and are still on the sled 2 years later. Handling is improved over the thinner carbides. I now start my season with tunner skis than shift when snow gets deep to the wider MTN ski as it helps my tank go through the back country deep snow. Hope this helps !
 
Bluebullet, thanks for the feedback... are you running 150mm tuners? I understand they come in two widths. I have yet to confirm two keel depths. Seems like they work well on trail conditions, less so in deep powder off trail expeditions. I wish we had more of that out here in Maine. My powder rides are limited to off the side of the trail when we are lucky enough to get 12" or more of snow at once... out west when I went skiing 12" was a low snow night... jealous!. Woody's and Bergstrom are where I am leaning, if I do go Woody's it will be with Bergstrom ski savers and shims so really comes down to the Bergstrom triple point / wear bar combination or the Woody's 4"/6" listed earlier...
 
Pulling the trigger soon... decided Bergstrom shims, ski savers and one triple point. Last decision is go with a Bergstrom wear bar (cheap) or try a Woody's instead of the wear bar which is basically a steel rod... hmmm.
 


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