myrodman
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05 warrior
hello guys i know ive read about this before but can not find it now my 06 attak darts really bad ive checked and set toe quarter inch out i think i once read a post about shimming the ski rubber what is the thickness of the shim? is it a straight or tappered shim? is the shim installed to push the back of the ski down? thanks
Irv
TY 4 Stroke God
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
It's in here, TY TECH above.myrodman said:hello guys i know ive read about this before but can not find it now my 06 attak darts really bad ive checked and set toe quarter inch out i think i once read a post about shimming the ski rubber what is the thickness of the shim? is it a straight or tappered shim? is the shim installed to push the back of the ski down? thanks
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... /SKIS.html
DigitalFusion
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I know some have claimed to have solved the darting issue with shims, or bergstroms, or this or that cheap alternative. I tried several different shim thicknesses and toe settings, as well as suspension tweaks and ski savers/bergstrom triples. I personally gave up on the stock skis and slapped a set of curves on. I'd say 80% of the darting is gone now. I still get darting here and there in certain conditions but its nothing like what I had with the stock skis. I also have my Apex set to rail the twisties, so there is a lot of ski pressure. Im sure if I dialed it back darting would be reduced even more.
I do not believe there is such a thing as a sled that will NEVER dart. There is always going to be some condition where darting will occur. Having said that...
Yes, shims are typically 1/8-5/16", with the more common size being about 1/4". They are installed so that the front of the ski points up higher. They do not have to be tapered, but if they are tapered it will prolong the life of the ski rubbers.
I do not believe there is such a thing as a sled that will NEVER dart. There is always going to be some condition where darting will occur. Having said that...
Yes, shims are typically 1/8-5/16", with the more common size being about 1/4". They are installed so that the front of the ski points up higher. They do not have to be tapered, but if they are tapered it will prolong the life of the ski rubbers.
myrodman
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05 warrior
thanks alot
turbine man
VIP Member
Try a set of snotrackers you will not be dissapointed.
DigitalFusion
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until you ride in low-snow conditions or over a set of RR tracks.
ryama
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I ride in low snow conditions and have crossed many RR tracks never had a problem. Best mod i have ever done. Snow trackers ROCK!!!DigitalFusion said:until you ride in low-snow conditions or over a set of RR tracks.
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
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I put a set of dartless on my warrior and they worked great and I think I only paid $50. I have Tuner ski's on my 2012 apex and think they work even better. You can get them on ebay for about $130 per pair shipped. Get the Woody's carbides.
yamaha convert
Pro
ryama said:I ride in low snow conditions and have crossed many RR tracks never had a problem. Best mod i have ever done. Snow trackers ROCK!!!DigitalFusion said:until you ride in low-snow conditions or over a set of RR tracks.
Couldnt agree more. Hands down one of if not the best thing you can do to the steering on your apex for groomed trails.
yamaha convert
Pro
DigitalFusion said:They do not have to be tapered, but if they are tapered it will prolong the life of the ski rubbers.
I have always wondered why people dont attach metal shims to the bottom of the spindle where the top of the rubber spindle bush sits. If they were attached there with say two rivets, the taper on the shim is no where near as critical as having the shim underneath the rubber.
With the shim underneath the rubber, without the correct taper, and if the shim isnt the length of half the rubber stop, it just ends up making an indent on the rubber. I would have thought if the shim were attached to the underneath of the spindle and was shaped to take up all the area the rubber sits on across its full width and length, it would act as if it were sitting on the spindle as it would from the factory for the most part. ???
I would also think taht the shim in this position would also have a greater effect on the angle of the ski for a given thickness of shim unless Im mistaken ???
thor452
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personaly i belive any kind of dual carbide will eliminate most of it to the point that you will be happy if you want to spend more money the snow trackers are the real deal i have tried lots of other products and thease are the best so far by a long shot. I have not tried tunner skis but guys love them too i think that from what i have seen on here they will cost alot more for the carbides over time as each ski has two and the wear just as fast as any other single carbide. that was my deciding factor to try snow trackers first and im very glad i did.
yamaha convert
Pro
thor452 said:personaly i belive any kind of dual carbide will eliminate most of it to the point that you will be happy if you want to spend more money the snow trackers are the real deal i have tried lots of other products and thease are the best so far by a long shot. I have not tried tunner skis but guys love them too i think that from what i have seen on here they will cost alot more for the carbides over time as each ski has two and the wear just as fast as any other single carbide. that was my deciding factor to try snow trackers first and im very glad i did.
I agree. I had dual carbides that came with my Attack and have put them back on after wearing through one set of snowtrackers. They are pretty good but not as effective as the snow trackers.
Panterawill
Extreme
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- Oct 5, 2011
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<<< There is always going to be some condition where darting will occur.>>>
Not if you get Snowtrackers. The issue will be solved, 100%
Not if you get Snowtrackers. The issue will be solved, 100%
kviper
VIP Member
Agreed, no darting at all with Tracker's.Panterawill said:<<< There is always going to be some condition where darting will occur.>>>
Not if you get Snowtrackers. The issue will be solved, 100%
stubb111
VIP Member
x100 on the snow trackers, that said i do have a set of slimjim doolys for start/end of season conditions where a lot of road crossings etc might be encountered (lots of steel...)
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